HELP 3.9 efi running badly back fire ect

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Hi all

let me give you a bit of history first

the 3.9 has just been rebuilt in the last 2 weeks
light hone , new rings big ends and mains some light porting to the cylinder heads
cyclone cam from real steal set up with 3degree retard or advance cant remember which with out my paper work which is in norfolk and im currently in nottingham
9.35.1 comp ratio running on tins
brand new plugs fitted , moroso spiral wound plug leads genuine cap and rotor arm new vacum on the dizzy
i have no air leaks n the vacum system the plenum has been sealed down aswell

my problem started after the build the engine ran on tick over lovely but as soon as we took her on a toad rest she was holding back no power and wouldnt rev under load after much deliberation a fist full of advance was put in to the dizzy and hey presto she was cured
ive since took the defender on a trip to nottingham which returned me 19.8 mpg so she must of been running ko at that time

now for the major problem i was getting sick of the idle being at 2k ish rpms when comeing to junctions due to the road speed sensor so i unpluged the stepper motor which cured the problem i spent a day running around with the plug off and all seemed ok , until i called in at a friends and noticed a rougher than normall idol so i reconnected the stepper , and reset the ecu by removeing the fuses from the loom
im now back to were i started huge back fire through the plenum chamber and no power at all shes holding back again ive taken the dizzy to bits and the advance retard seems i very good condition and is working ive had the multi meter on the throttle pot 0.33 volts which is good i assume and the air flow meter is set at 1.5 volts no matter were i put the dizzy adv or retard it wont pull its poping and farting im lost as to what to do next
i would mega squirt it but im skint so thats not an option at the minute
please help ! :confused:
 
thought i would update this request with a couple of findings

this problem is worse when the engines hot , tonight i thought i better limp to the garage for petrol as i was on vapours seems as i was about to run out the landy took off like a rocket go figure

im using a brand new rrc in tank pump with the white mesh on the btm im going to check that in the morning

also the temp sensor for the efi i couldnt get a resistance reading from it that made any sence but this could be my multi meter not working on ohms yet again
 
thought i would update this request with a couple of findings

this problem is worse when the engines hot , tonight i thought i better limp to the garage for petrol as i was on vapours seems as i was about to run out the landy took off like a rocket go figure

im using a brand new rrc in tank pump with the white mesh on the btm im going to check that in the morning

also the temp sensor for the efi i couldnt get a resistance reading from it that made any sence but this could be my multi meter not working on ohms yet again

lifter clearance (flattened welding wire to preset size) and shims if required.

Or valve timing at a guess if the valves etc are good
 
I've recently had trouble with poor running when warm... It was the temperature sensor telling the ECU that it was constantly cold, so it was running 40% rich. If you're not getting a good resistance reading from it I'd check it out again!
 
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i have the bible with the ohm meter settings for the temp thermister im not sure im getting the correct readings as i only have my sealey multi meter in nottinham at the minute
and its a bit **** , the resistance does decrease with engine temp and increase on cooling , what is the best method of testing this ? i think at arournd 55/60 degres i was getting around 1300 ohms
 
why buy one when i could just steel yours !!! i own a decent meter but i dont have it with me :D

Steel is metal
Steal is to take without permission.

On the steal side I'd relish your best effort, but I don't rate your chances.
 
i have the bible with the ohm meter settings for the temp thermister im not sure im getting the correct readings as i only have my sealey multi meter in nottinham at the minute
and its a bit **** , the resistance does decrease with engine temp and increase on cooling , what is the best method of testing this ? i think at arournd 55/60 degres i was getting around 1300 ohms

Have you tried bridging the thermistor plug with a paper clip to make it think it is hot?

I've not had to do this myself but have been told it is a way to see if the temp thermistor is the problem and it is a relatively quick and cheap way to do it.
 
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