Heater matrix removal P38 diesel
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tomcat59alan
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Someone replaced their matrix with an Audi one ( I think) do a search.
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Passenger footwell wouldn't be O rings....
Possible causes for pax side: sunroof drains, pollen filter housing covers leaking, heater matrix split or leaking windscreen seals.
Possible causes for pax side: sunroof drains, pollen filter housing covers leaking, heater matrix split or leaking windscreen seals.
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are you losing coolant still after doing the rings? I get a leak every now and then in the passenger well after heavy rain! RHD.
tomcat59alan
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Pollen filter housing seal, a/c drain or sun roof drain if you have one fitted
Yep - tried to pretend it's just working out air locks since I drained it for the O Rings - which were shot - coolant dripping all the way down the chassis rail to rear wheel! But still wetness on passenger side and losing half an expansion tank every couple of days. Split matrix no doubt - but how to get the bugger out? Seen some youtubers on it but they are LHD so hack the dash frame. But is there a shortcut for RHD? Anyone got details - most appreciated.
tomcat59alan
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Aircon drain tubes too?
tomcat59alan
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See Post#5.
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http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/hevac/heatercore.html
P38 Heater Core Replacement
P38 Heater Core Replacement
brianp38dse
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Tried to change mine with the above method but the steering column gets in the way and that looked a right pain to takeout so gave up and just changed the pipes and o rings, still got a brand new matrix sitting there.
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Take the dash out. Only takes about 2 hours (with practice). http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/dash-removal/
While it's out you can also check heater flaps, replace foam seals, etc.
While it's out you can also check heater flaps, replace foam seals, etc.
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Got the dimensions? paulP38A says "43mm wide and 157mm tall" but neglects to give the third dimension. Wonder if there is something solid out there with no plastic parts.
brianp38dse
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I will dig the matrix out tomorrow and measure it and post back.
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You may have a buyer for that matrix Brian....
Changed my O rings for the 2nd time in two weeks today and it's still leaking. Although it's stopped again now!
I think it's the matrix or something more serious than the O rings.
If I do change it, I think I'll go Audi. Is there a shopping list of things to buy anywhere? And what would be a good idea to change whilst the dash is out?
@martyuk has done a few in the past I think.
Changed my O rings for the 2nd time in two weeks today and it's still leaking. Although it's stopped again now!
I think it's the matrix or something more serious than the O rings.
If I do change it, I think I'll go Audi. Is there a shopping list of things to buy anywhere? And what would be a good idea to change whilst the dash is out?
@martyuk has done a few in the past I think.
brianp38dse
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Well been up in the loft and measured the matrix, the size of the section the goes in to the heater is 335mm long 165mm wide 50mm deep including the foam seal.
hope that is of some help.
hope that is of some help.
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It is. I'm thinking there must be an alternative out there that doesn't have so much plastic and doesn't require as much butchery. One day mine is bound to fail too!
martyuk
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I've done 5 or 6 Audi matrix conversions now, and it isn't too bad... I take the top of the dash off and you can get the heater box out without any cutting etc.. occasionally a bit of 'gentle' persuasion is required to get on of the metal bars out that goes across the front of the matrix - but other than that, it's pretty straightforward.
I use Nissens heater cores - either 70220 or 70230 - both fit nicely, the 70230 has slightly bigger pipe connections.
I have in the past done kits on my website for everything needed to do the swap (mainly on petrols, as I haven't done a diesel one yet, so need to finish working out exactly what's needed in the way of hose lengths and adapters etc..) but I have also run out of heater cores at the moment - installed the last one for a customer a couple of weeks ago, and then promptly buggered off out of the country for work..
I generally swap the whole heater box out for one that I've pulled apart, cleaned, and freed up any binding flaps - so hopefully it means there is less likely to be blend motor issues in the future... also a good time to get rid of the horrible foam on top of the box and replace it with some new stuff, or draught excluder, and so any other bits of maintenance whilst it's all apart, like resealing all the ductwork on reinstall with duct tape etc..
I use Nissens heater cores - either 70220 or 70230 - both fit nicely, the 70230 has slightly bigger pipe connections.
I have in the past done kits on my website for everything needed to do the swap (mainly on petrols, as I haven't done a diesel one yet, so need to finish working out exactly what's needed in the way of hose lengths and adapters etc..) but I have also run out of heater cores at the moment - installed the last one for a customer a couple of weeks ago, and then promptly buggered off out of the country for work..
I generally swap the whole heater box out for one that I've pulled apart, cleaned, and freed up any binding flaps - so hopefully it means there is less likely to be blend motor issues in the future... also a good time to get rid of the horrible foam on top of the box and replace it with some new stuff, or draught excluder, and so any other bits of maintenance whilst it's all apart, like resealing all the ductwork on reinstall with duct tape etc..
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Are the "slightly bigger pipe connections" easier / better in some way?
martyuk
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- Swindon, UK
The 70220 has approx 18mm hose connections, which with 19mm pipe and a decent clamp gives a good seal, and on petrol P38's requires no reducer fittings, as 19mm rubber hose connects nicely onto the metal pipes in the engine bay (at least they do on a Thor! - pipe run is a bit different on GEMS, but still, no reducer needed)
The 70230 has approx 20mm hose connections, so 19mm pipe is quite tight to get on, but probably wouldn't leak, even if you didn't put a clamp on it (I wouldn't want to test that theory though!).. there also seemed to be a bit of a difference in the end tanks on the heater matrix - but the overall dimensions are pretty much identical, and either of them will fit in the P38 heater box with little modification (the plastic rib in the middle needs to be cut out on either version - about a 30 second task with a sharp chisel.
The 70230 has approx 20mm hose connections, so 19mm pipe is quite tight to get on, but probably wouldn't leak, even if you didn't put a clamp on it (I wouldn't want to test that theory though!).. there also seemed to be a bit of a difference in the end tanks on the heater matrix - but the overall dimensions are pretty much identical, and either of them will fit in the P38 heater box with little modification (the plastic rib in the middle needs to be cut out on either version - about a 30 second task with a sharp chisel.
