headgasket gone on k-series

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E

eltel

New Member
Posts
40
Location
southampton
hi all,well i went out to take a look at the hdc on the freelander found the fault and fixed it took it for a spin and all seemed to be good and i was proper chuffed with myself but when i opened the bonnet i thought where the feck has all me coolant gone:eek:. so after checking for any leaks i topped it back up with water and ran the engine and after a while bits of oil started coming through and i checked the oil filler cap and it started to milk up and the dipstick too and now i can hear air in the heater ,its got to be the head gasket right?. so today ive been and bought new uprated headgasket with new headbolts a new cambelt and tensioner i may aswell replace that while im at it even though it was done about 20000 miles back,new oil filter and oil,engine flush and radiator flush and that little lot set me back £171 quid:doh:where does it end:confused:.so thats my little job for the weekend .but do i need to lock off the cylinder liners with this little kit you buy or can i do it without them? any info on fitting these bits would be great

cheers all
 
i havnt touched it yet is there other stuff i need to be doing then? the new uprated headgasket comes with a protection shim to fit aswel and this apparently eliminates any need for skimming or is that not so?
 
Old skool mechanics sometimes used a flat thick sheet of glass & grinding paste but whilst that might have worked back in the sixties for some very simple heads with minimal distortion & hours of graft, I don't think it would cut it with todays fine tolerances. Oh & don't ignore the previous post advising you to check for liner slippage.
 
ianda12 said:
Definately use NEW head bolts
Click to expand...

:doh::doh: When do you not use NEW head bolts??

It's common sense if nothing else that If the head comes off the bolts must be replaced with new when the heads are replaced as a matter of course due to the stresses they are put through when torquing them down and day to day running.
If not, you risk snapping them and as the head bolts on that particular engine run right down to the sump they will be a pain in the ass to remove if they were to snap.
 
If it's happened before you may want to get the hardness of the head checked? And if it's gone soft then get hold of a new or professionally re-conditioned head. With the K's having an alloy head they're prone to going soft i believe.

No amount of skimming will stop another hgf on a soft head (maybe what causes sequential hgf on some engines).
 
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