Handbrake adjustment

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
LeadFarmer

LeadFarmer

Well-Known Member
Posts
6,760
Location
Yorkshure
My handbrake lever was very slack, and handbrake wasn't working properly. I've adjusted the nut behind the drum, as far as I know it needs tightening until you can hear the pads inside catching on the drum, then back it off?

I kept tightening the nut and spinning the drum but couldn't hear them catching, eventually the nut wouldn't tighten any further, but the handbrake lever was much tighter. I backed off the nut a little, and the handbrake is now perfect.

But does this mean the pads are worn? If there no more adjustment in the bolt then I won't be able to tighten it again?

IMG_0303.jpeg
 
There should be virtually no wear on the handbrake shoes. It just holds the prop when applied. If worn then handbrake is sticking on and needs stripped to find out what is wrong.
 
If that were mine I would strip it out and take a look, either way the shoes sound like they are worn beyond adjustment.
 
It is a bit oily under there. I think I was told theres a leak from a high pressure hose, I purchased a replacement but never got around to have it fitted. In fact I did once, but the mechanic said where it threads into the radiator it had seized, and if forced it may strip the thread in the rad, requiring a new rad. We decided not to do it that day, and I've never got around to getting it sorted. Of course the leak could be from somewhere else.
 
LeadFarmer said:
It is a bit oily under there. I think I was told theres a leak from a high pressure hose, I purchased a replacement but never got around to have it fitted. In fact I did once, but the mechanic said where it threads into the radiator it had seized, and if forced it may strip the thread in the rad, requiring a new rad. We decided not to do it that day, and I've never got around to getting it sorted. Of course the leak could be from somewhere else.
Click to expand...

You can always cut the hose and splice in a connector.
 
You'll need shoes and new nuts for the propshaft. You will probably find the oil seal has gone on the output flange - the surface of which may/ may not be rusty. The shoes got contaminated with oil/ or mud - you pull the brake on harder and harder cos it's not working etc, that was my story anyway... You can pick up kits with a replacement flange, oil seal. You could pop the drum off and take a look first, at what might need replacing, but for the price it's just as easy to pre-order and dismantle just the once.
 
I find it easier to remove the backplate with the shoes on complete, only 4 bolts and it's easier to work on with it flat on a bench.
Strip, clean and grease the actuator too.
 
You can also get a bit of wear on the adjuster too, so that it doesn't expand as much so as to make the shoes touch the inside of the drum. A new one isn't that dear.
 
When the expander for the shoes wears or gets gummed up then it does not totaly let go and shoes can wear out.
Sometimes they can stick enough for you not to be able to move.:mad:
Brown beat me to it.
 
If you do need new shoes? Cover the friction surfaces with masking tape because you WILL get oily finger marks on them when trying to refit.:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Officerdibble
Handbrake adjustment
Replies
9
Views
601
miktdish
miktdish
S
Knocking in reverse
Replies
3
Views
721
Brown
Brown
H
Disco 4 (LR4) Handbrake question
Replies
0
Views
528
Homech83
H
julianf
Loads of slack in power train - diffs?
Replies
15
Views
849
julianf
julianf
damian46
Rear drum brake adjuster
Replies
1
Views
957
damian46
damian46
Back
Top