Gutless TD5 - should I buy or not?

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TheJoker

Active Member
Posts
229
Location
Near Oxford
Hi guys,

I've read quite a few things about the TD5 engine not performing OK, so I know thi smight be one of those "do a search"-threads, but before you reply with that, please read.

I went to see a fairly tidy Defender 90 Hard Top today. It all added up, and we haggled a bit and then just before I was going to say "deal", I remembered I've not actually taken it for a spin. :rolleyes:

I took it for a spin, and I immediately it felt very gutless. I've only driven one TD5 before, so I don't have a huge frame of reference.

However, to get any sort of acceleration out of it, I had to pin the throttle to the floor. Keeping it there eventually got a bit of a turbo boost, but not very much. I have driven other cars that have had their EGR valves clogged up, and it was kind of similar. Or like a gutless 2-stroke that suddenly wakes up, but in this case, not very much.

It started pretty much instantaneously, and it idled like a swiss clock. No smoke, no problems at all. It's done quite a bit of miles, 160k+.

I know potential problems include things like clogged up EGR and intercooler. Collapsing hoses. Leaking hoses. Stuck wastegates. And even a broken turbo.

If I bought it, I'd be giving it a service anyway, so a bit of extra tinkering, isn't very much bother for me. However, big money outlays do bother me. I'm fairly good with a spanner, but all repairs will have to be done on the street (i.e no garage etc...).

Big question though is; Should I buy it or keep looking? What do you reckon? Big problem? No problem? Stay away? "A squirt of WD40?"... :scratching_chin: :confused:

Thanks guys! :cool:
 
Search seized waste gate, injector washers and o rings and oil in loom.
Or duff maff

Also make sure it isn't pressurising coolant hoses
 
Search seized waste gate, injector washers and o rings and oil in loom.
Or duff maff

Also make sure it isn't pressurising coolant hoses

Yeah, those are all faults I've read about, however I did forget about checking pressure in the coolant. Thanks! :cool:
I'm pretty happy to fix the waste gate, remove the injectors and replace the loom, however, pressure in coolant scares me! :eek:

So, potential "yes" to buying? :confused:

:)
 
Agreed with all the above, but probably the easiest thing to do (apart from checking the coolant and oil level/contamination) is to unplug the MAF and then start it and see how it goes. It will use the default fueling map and will not show any check engine light and often will run much better since it's being fueled correctly. Some td5 drivers (me included until my new MAF comes) keep ours unplugged all the time.
 
Agreed with all the above, but probably the easiest thing to do (apart from checking the coolant and oil level/contamination) is to unplug the MAF and then start it and see how it goes. It will use the default fueling map and will not show any check engine light and often will run much better since it's being fueled correctly. Some td5 drivers (me included until my new MAF comes) keep ours unplugged all the time.

Very interesting. :cool: I might just give this a go if I go buy it.

Reading between the lines, nobody is shouting "Stay away!" which is very cool. :cool2:

Much appreciated! :D
 
I bought a gutless Td5 (albeit for a ridiculously cheap price) and despite years of dodgy maintenance by the original owners the engine and injectors were all okay. I think most people who have experience with Td5's would agree that post 2002/3 models are fairly robust.

Td5 ECU is not a common type that can be read with generic code readers. You must have a Nanocom, Hawkeye, etc. to read and reset codes and view live data. No other real alternatives. Both aren't cheap, but they allow you to see injector timings (ECU adjusts injectors and if one is bad, it will show up as having high numbers), read sensor values (MAF, manifold pressure, inlet temp/pressure, coolant temp), etc. Makes it a lot easier than guessing what's going on inside.

On mine (Defender) I did the following and it's now a great beast to drive: removed EGR, cleaned intercooler, adjusted the waste gate, cleaned the other sensors (easy to do), new stock air filter (imho stock filters are best), new fuel regulator (these often leak), and replaced a stuck-closed thermostat.

I've attached a photo of the MAF. It's in the center w/ the white zip tie around it. Mine has a spring you push up from the bottom of the connector and it will just slide off. Do this w/ the engine off, and then start it and take it for a drive. Sometimes doing so will make a night and day difference.

But yes, like others said beware of a blown or bad head gasket and faulty injectors (likely would need a nanocom to check the injectors). If these are okay then it might be some tools and elbow grease first to do some basics, then eventually borrow or buy a Nanocom or similar depending on how much you want to tinker with it.
 

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Fantastic information, jhealey! Much appreciated. Even if I don't get this one, this info will come in handy. :5bhurray:

Looking forward to getting a TD5 now, any TD5. :D
 
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