Gearbox Oil Cooler Change

Have a P38 4.0 HSE '01 with a leak from the gearbox oil cooler. Have sourced a replcement rad and pipes from our good friends in Island and went to do the change this morning.

Two quick questions -

The new rad does not appear to have tappings for the temperature sensor - is it neceesary to drill these, or have I got the wrong rad?

In changing the rad, Rave recommends removing the oil cooler -is there sufficent slack on the oil pipes to allow it to slide up over the main radiator to allow access to the gearbox cooler? Otherwise I may need to replace the oil cooler as well if the threads strip.

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

Ken

Anyone have any constructive thoughts on this one?

Yes. There isnt enough clearance to get the gearbox cooler past the engine oil cooler so be prepared for replacing that if the threads go. My advice, soak the engine oil cooler unions with plus gas over a week or so. Give them a spray each day. The gearbox cooler should have a small plate with 2 pilot holes for the self tapping screws that hold the sensor.I managed to salvage my pipe unions by modifying a tap (M20 x 1.5 I think) by ginding out the centre so i could clear the debris.

Many thanks for the comments - I shall be speaking with our friends in Island on Tuesday regarding the cooler received, and possibly an oil cooler as well.

Just an update on this one.

The gearbox oil cooler supplied by Island did not have screw tappings, and when I queried them, they advised glueing the sensor on with Araldite.

Changed the cooler - for information, there is just room to move the oil cooler up, and move the air con rad slightly forward, which allows the gearbox oil cooler to move slide out to the passenger side.

RAVE does not mention the two deflector plates either side of the air con rad, which channel air to the rads, rather than allow it to escape to the side.
Removing these does help considerably, as it gives much more room to get at the nuts securing the pipe and bolts securing the cooler in position. They are held in with plastic trim tabs, which broke up on extraction, but were easily replaced with small bolts.

Luckily, the pipes came away without damage, which meant I only needed to change the cooler only. At last - one job that went well!!

Hope this helps someone.

Ken

They sold you something and advised you to glue bits onto it!

Nice!!!