Front wheel bearings TD5

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Splitty64

New Member
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30
Location
South Bucks
I need to pull my front hub off to investigate a strange noise. I have looked in the workshop manual which sugets that the front hub nuts (52mm) on 1999 onwards defenders are torqued up to 150 lbft, so I would need a substantial socket. Speaking to the parts guy at Craddocks, he says this is bull and a 52mm box spanner would be fine.

Please confirm which one of the two is true
 
it is the "free float" which is most important on a wheel bearing, rather than the lock nut torque. It depends how critical you are. A lot of peeps just use a box spanner to lock the nuts, however if you want to do the job "properly" then invest in that socket.
 
Splitting hairs but the socket size is 52.3mm and the job is so much easier with a proper socket.
 
I have just been told by another person at Craddocks, you cant buy replacement bearings for a TD5 front hub, you have to buy the whole hub

Is this true?? has anyone out there just swapped bearings before?

I guess this may be because the spacer inside is shimmed perfect so you can torque the lot up to 150 lb ft ????????
 
Thats bull. I just replaced the bearings. have to get them from the main dealer though. No one else seemed to stock them when I did mine. Looked everywhere.

And yeah you will struggle with a box spanner. To get mine off with a box spanner I put the biggest allen key that would fit through the hole and then a 4ft steel tube over that and had to sit on it virtually to get it off. You also need a mate to stop the box spanne twisting off the nut. I gave in in the end and paid for the socket. Its worth it.
 
can yer explain why LR took away the possiblity of adjusting the wheel bearings when the original method worked for 50 years? apart from the need to buy bearings more often.
would it be possible to throw the spacer away and run the bearings like in other defenders/series?
 
This thread started me thinking!! I'm relatively new to the LZ, so haven't read everything, but has anyone ever suggested a tool sharing scheme? If a few people each paid, say, a fiver to borrow that 52mm socket, it would ease the pain.
 
Hi I recently redid all the bearings/linings etc on my td5. I made a wheel nut socket which works well. You can use a long pole to undo the nut and a large 1/2 inch drive allen hex socket to tighten it up to approx 150 ( I know about the torque multiplier effect of the extension). I'll post a pic as soon as I get chance.
 
did you take the pic and leave it somewhere but forget to post it..

I am doing the rear discs and took the nuts off by hand but want to put them on properly if I can...

Rave cd said:
Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
Back off adjusting nut 90°. Tighten to 4 Nm.

ooh just remembered I also have to get a new lock washer... back to paddocks... 21pence.. that's gonna break the bank...
 
I have just been told by another person at Craddocks, you cant buy replacement bearings for a TD5 front hub, you have to buy the whole hub

Is this true?? has anyone out there just swapped bearings before?

I guess this may be because the spacer inside is shimmed perfect so you can torque the lot up to 150 lb ft ????????


When they say "buy the whole hub" they don't mean that you end up buying a quarter of a ton of front axle bits.

The front wheel bearing bearing unit in a TD5 axle isn't made from plain ordinary bearings that you can buy for a couple of pounds. That would be too easy. Its a made up unit, two roller bearings inside a casing, and the casing bolts directly to the outer end of the steering knuckle, It could hardly be easier. You might need a hand pressing the hub out of the bearing - if it comes out. Rave does not say it comes out, and may suggest the rotating hub flange comes with the bearing as a set.

Rave says
"The outer race of the hub bearing is bolted to the steering knuckle. The hub bearing is a sealed unit which contains twin opposed roller bearings, pre-packed with grease during manufacture. A toothed ABS sensor ring is integrated into the inner race of the hub bearing. An opening in the outer race of the hub bearing accommodates the ABS sensor."

So the bearing is a special thing for the TD5 axles, but you most certainly can change them, and 150 ft-lbs torque isn't as tight as all that.

These bearings are fundamentally NOT THE SAME as ordinary Landy Axles used to be, and you MUST tighten up the hub nut (drive shaft nut) good and tight just as the good book says. If you don't, the bearing will run slack and the whole lot will get wrecked in no time, and your brakes will fail when the disc starts wobbling.

Some of the advice you have been given does NOT relate to TD5 axles, and the big box socket thing is NOT required.

CharlesY
 
OK OK .... you can shoot me now ...

Discovery ... Defender ....

Defender axles and wheel bearing EVEN TD5 are classic LandRover style and the bearings should be freely available standard parts from any bearings dealer.

And yes you do need the big spanner thing, and 150 ft-lbs torque too.

If I could paste into this post I would let you see the two exploded diagrams.

But I can't find a way to paste a piccy from clipboard into a post.

Sorry!


CharlesY
 
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