Front wheel bearing replacement.

Could someone give me quick run through on the proceedure for replace a 300 Tdi front wheel bearing please? It's on a friends car and only have a manual for the Discovery 2.

Thanks.

undo 2 x caliper bolt bihex 13mm but 1/2 inch is better fit,
support the botom of swivel housing undo 2 x 17mm top swivel pin bolts to release brake pipe bracket refit at least one bolt to stop ,tie caliper out of the way
undo drive member 5 x 17 mm headed bolts
remove dust cap ,circlip and shims
remove drive member
straighten lock tab on outer bearing nut remove nut tab washer and inner nut
pull hub off ,knock bearing races and seal out
fit new bearings dont use a punch without protecting bearing race use a bearing dolly or old race
grease well fit seal the right way round concave toward bearing
refit ,then solid washer then first nut toghten fully to seat bearings then back off till loose tighten by hand till you just feel all play been removed do it a few times to ensure its corrrect,
ffit new tab washer and outer nut tighten fully lock tab over inner and outer one at one side the other opposite
refit drive member using one bolt to hold cv splines fully through member as you nip it up

+1. For the cost, I always use a new hub seal as the old one is probably shot.

James,

That's great, thanks.

It doesn't sound too difficult.

I have bought a kit from Famous Four which comes with all the seals and gaskets.

Glen.

I'm doing a similar job on my V8 but I'm having trouble with the inner nut. Nothing I have fits and I am a wee bit concerned about getting it torqued back up correctly. Can anyone advise the correct sized socket. It measures 36-37mm across the flats

GDM - I've recently been ordering parts online from Paddock Spares. . Too early to tell about quality but excellent service so far
Regarding the manual- I sourced one online (free) with a simple Google search. Sorry I can't remember the site

52mm or should be for a disco 1,it isnt torqued up but just adjusted till freeplay is just removed,outer nut just needs to be tight

Boots Da Rov said:

I'm doing a similar job on my V8 but I'm having trouble with the inner nut. Nothing I have fits and I am a wee bit concerned about getting it torqued back up correctly. Can anyone advise the correct sized socket. It measures 36-37mm across the flats

GDM - I've recently been ordering parts online from Paddock Spares. . Too early to tell about quality but excellent service so far
Regarding the manual- I sourced one online (free) with a simple Google search. Sorry I can't remember the site

Click to expand...

This one was just over 50mm, as my 50mm socket didn't fit. I managed to do it up with the tips of a large pair of grips, as James says it doesn't have to be too tight.

Was it the RAVE manual you found?

The Famous Four kit included Timken bearings, so should be good quality.

If you look on fleabay you will almost certainly find a socket or spnner to fit. I did a few years ago. And it should be TIGHT.

blackhadder said:

If you look on fleabay you will almost certainly find a socket or spnner to fit. I did a few years ago. And it should be TIGHT.

Click to expand...

you might want to clarify that answer as a really tight inner locknut would screw the bearing in no time at all, think about it the OP is asking as he hasnt done one before and that kind of answer could really cause a feck up for him.


If you dont know, dont answer if you do know then be clear about it

You are of course correct. However, I think 'tightened with the tips of a large pair of grips' needs a bit of help. Unfortunately I don't know the correct torque setting for the inner locknut, but I am sure you will be able to help.

blackhadder said:

You are of course correct. However, I think 'tightened with the tips of a large pair of grips' needs a bit of help. Unfortunately I don't know the correct torque setting for the inner locknut, but I am sure you will be able to help.

Click to expand...

there isnt a torque setting read my post on how to

blackhadder said:

You are of course correct. However, I think 'tightened with the tips of a large pair of grips' needs a bit of help. Unfortunately I don't know the correct torque setting for the inner locknut, but I am sure you will be able to help.

Click to expand...

There int one.. tighten it until the wheel starts to bind. Then slacken off slightly. Fit lock washer, bend tab over and fit outer nut an tighten it good and tight.. then bend tab washer ouitwards to trap outer nut

There is in the landriver manual. Depends which Disco tho.

Section 54 page 4.

Many Thanks for the input guys. Sorry for the delay in responding but work had to take priority

I managed to get the nuts off with a set of water pump pliers but one really was quite tight. I will get a proper socket to do it back up properly.On torquing back up my manual says

13. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
14. Back off adjusting nut 90 deg. Tighten to 4 Nm.
This will give the required hub end float of 0,010mm
15. Fit a new lock washer

This more or less is the same as Trewey's advice but I note the advice to spin the hub to settle the bearings

On the subject of end float - before undoing the nuts I noticed that the end float on the drive shafts, both sides, to be in the order of 5mm which is a hell of a lot more than the 0.08 -0.25mm specified.
Do I have a problem elsewhere?

GDM - I don't know if the manual I got online is a RAVE or not.
The front page looks like the attached.
Perhaps someone else can tell what it is?

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Dalkeith, Midlothian

“Morag the Monster” Disco 1 1995 V8i LPG 2” lift kit, big bore exhaust, bonnet light pod, outrageous colour scheme - currently SORN
“Milady” Disco 1 1995 V8i ES –unmodified – she's so much more refined than Morag
"Nessie" Mitsubishi Shogun Pinin GDI 2000 - very capable but currently SORN

Someone has lost the shim washers.
Take any left out. Measure the end float then buy the correct shims to get it back into spec.

Although 5mm sounds a hell of a lot .

Manual is rave.

Look at page 501 - front axle. Look for spacing washer. 5mm is miles too much .

the wheel bearings are best set without end float/freeplay ,whatever stated elsewhere,taper bearings dont like movement ,cv shims arent critical just remove as much endfloat as possible

Thanks again