Front prop shaft

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acidK1

Member
Posts
50
Location
Shropshire
So, after the hole in the gearbox saga, I have come to change one of my UJ on the front prop. Took prop off today and found 2 of the cups had no bearing pins in and pretty much fell apart in my hand, so new one in and a contact of mine was adamant that the sliding joint sat at the diff end, although it was originally slider at transfer box end. Now I wanted to pit it back as it was but he certain it was the wrong way. So I put it back on with the sliding joint at diff end and it seems to run nice, no vibrations or nasty noises. However I am still convinced it's wrong. Swap it back round?

On a second note, how hard is the transfer box seal that the front prop bolts to to change? Much oil loss? Have the seal but didn't have the socket to get the nut off.

Thank you
1999 range rover 2.5dse manual.
 
So, after the hole in the gearbox saga, I have come to change one of my UJ on the front prop. Took prop off today and found 2 of the cups had no bearing pins in and pretty much fell apart in my hand, so new one in and a contact of mine was adamant that the sliding joint sat at the diff end, although it was originally slider at transfer box end. Now I wanted to pit it back as it was but he certain it was the wrong way. So I put it back on with the sliding joint at diff end and it seems to run nice, no vibrations or nasty noises. However I am still convinced it's wrong. Swap it back round?

On a second note, how hard is the transfer box seal that the front prop bolts to to change? Much oil loss? Have the seal but didn't have the socket to get the nut off.

Thank you
1999 range rover 2.5dse manual.
it wont make any difference what end the slider is, lr have used both depending on other factors rather than its necessary for the prop
 
the sliding joint is slightly offset on range rover P 38 and also make shure it slides freely or it can shear the bold holding the transfer case to the gearbox.(ask me how I know this):eek:
 
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