Front prop shaft

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hippolover

hippolover

New Member
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Perthshire
Just had a UJ replaced under warranty and still getting a faint vibe about 40mph from under the seats (wheels all balanced recently so not them). Had a look at the shaft and the front and rear yokes are about 30 degrees out in relation to one another. Should they not be symmetrical at either end and does the sliding part go to the front diff end or the transfer box end? Wouldn't have had this prob if the car wasn't under warranty as I'd have done it myself and marked it before taking it apart.

(£108 trade rate price for the whole job as they insisted on using genuine LR parts from the main dealer - £56 for the bearing on it's own!) I thought that was a bit dear too so just as well I only had the excess to worry about.

Its the 2000 P38 V8
 
You're definitely better off using genuine parts for the UJ. I know they're expensive but if you put in crap ones you'll be doing it again in 6 months like me.

I can't remember if its the RRC or the P38 that has the UJ's at different angles but either way it was designed like that. It was supposed to help prevent shaft jump as you go through articulation.

I keep the sliding part at the axle end, makes more sense to my twisted little brain.
 
SpudH said:
You're definitely better off using genuine parts for the UJ. I know they're expensive but if you put in crap ones you'll be doing it again in 6 months like me.

I can't remember if its the RRC or the P38 that has the UJ's at different angles but either way it was designed like that. It was supposed to help prevent shaft jump as you go through articulation.
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ditto I used some cheap ****e and was back doing them again within a year
 
It had definitely been done before I got it obviously with a cheap tatty joint as it had tried to force it's way out and as a result had worn away one of the bolt heads. It was probably less than 100 miles away from breaking loose and coming up to meet me from underneath. There was an odd bolt on it before it went in for the job too and I am assured they put new 9/16 bolts on as well fresh from the main dealer.
 
hippolover said:
Just had a UJ replaced under warranty and still getting a faint vibe about 40mph from under the seats (wheels all balanced recently so not them). Had a look at the shaft and the front and rear yokes are about 30 degrees out in relation to one another. Should they not be symmetrical at either end and does the sliding part go to the front diff end or the transfer box end? Wouldn't have had this prob if the car wasn't under warranty as I'd have done it myself and marked it before taking it apart.

(£108 trade rate price for the whole job as they insisted on using genuine LR parts from the main dealer - £56 for the bearing on it's own!) I thought that was a bit dear too so just as well I only had the excess to worry about.

Its the 2000 P38 V8
Click to expand...

Think they should be at 90 degrees to each other has the slider been taken off and put back in the wrong place. No need to remove slider to replace UJs.
 
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Probably been shoved back on any way so they could match the holes up rather than push the car forward a few inches to match them. Needs taken off again then?
 
hippolover said:
Probably been shoved back on any way so they could match the holes up rather than push the car forward a few inches to match them. Needs taken off again then?
Click to expand...

Dealer price for joint is bloody horrendous. Genuine Hardy Spicers are around £14.00 retail. That's what the dealer will be supplying in a Land Rover box. Bloody ridiculous.
 
Have a look at prop photo on Rimmers site. Shows joints in line. Sure knuckles should be at 90 degrees to each other, but hey ho Land Rover do their own thing.
 
props shouldnt be 90 degrees ,the two yokes shouild be in the same plane like an open ended spanner ,front props if high angle can be phased often 1 or 2 splines anything other will give vibration and take one of the joints out
 
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not necessarily.
different Landies had props in line, 45 degrees out and, I believe, 90degrees out. best to check with onother vehicle of the same type. That is why the manuals always say "mark up both parts of the prop, so that it can be re-aligned correctly"
 
jamesmartin said:
props shouldnt be 90 degrees ,the two yokes shouild be in the same plane like an open ended spanner ,front props if high angle can be phased often 1 or 2 splines anything other will give vibration and take one of the joints out
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The spanner reference illustrates it perfectly. Which end does the slide go - front diff or transfer box? (seeing as it's going to have to come off again anyway).
 
I just checked RAVE. The RRC front shaft was definitely phased, its described in RAVE. The P38 section of the manual is not as explicit, but in the picture of the drive shaft it also appears to be phased.
 
mad hat man that is not right the fact that somebody has ssembled a prop wrong doesnt make what youve seen right ,all propshafts using ujs should be in line ,but it was found that some not 90 degrees phasing could help in extreme angles, look it up marking up a misaligned prop is a cert for new joint ,its a bloody engineering principle of how they work,manuals say mark it so that you dont end up with what you suggest.it makes no difference which end slide is the only reason lr put rear prop with slide to transfer box ,and front to diff is because slide gaiter would catch om series cross member it stuck from there
 
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jamesmartin said:
mad hat man that is not right the fact that somebody has ssembled a prop wrong doesnt make what youve seen right ,all propshafts using ujs should be in line ,but it was found that some not 90 degrees phasing could help in extreme angles, look it up marking up a misaligned prop is a cert for new joint ,its a bloody engineering principle of how they work,manuals say mark it so that you dont end up with what you suggest.it makes no difference which end slide is the only reason lr put rear prop with slide to transfer box ,and front to diff is because slide gaiter would catch om series cross member it stuck from there
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True in general. But i have seen standard props with 90 degree phasing.
 
jamesmartin said:
mad hat man that is not right the fact that somebody has ssembled a prop wrong doesnt make what youve seen right ,all propshafts using ujs should be in line ,but it was found that some not 90 degrees phasing could help in extreme angles, look it up marking up a misaligned prop is a cert for new joint ,its a bloody engineering principle of how they work,manuals say mark it so that you dont end up with what you suggest.it makes no difference which end slide is the only reason lr put rear prop with slide to transfer box ,and front to diff is because slide gaiter would catch om series cross member it stuck from there
Click to expand...


It aint wot i seen - but i distinctly remember that Disco and Defender prop alignments are different - ergo, they cannot all be the same.
 
mad hat man read up on i,what you have seen doesnt make it right i see plenty that are wrong even new,incorrect phasing will wear joints
 
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