Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander2 4WD issues

Greetings, I am back on landyzone.
After whoring around with mitsubishi, ford etc I am now back to Freelanders although 2 which is considered relible.
Got a cheap enough FL2, took a gamble and seems like I've lost.

The whole car shakes and shudders when I turn. Similar to FL1 when the diff/prop bushes were out.
In this case I have checked and the bushes seem alright.
However it seems like somebody has been there before on rear diff perhaps changed the oil in some attempt to fix.

Couple of questions please.

What is the usual culprit on these issues on FL2?
Can it be converted to 2WD until I get all sorted? If it's not a cheap/easy fix.

Thanks all.

Not getting any errors on dash or delphi...

Good to see you back Pro. My Delphi is still working!!, although I now have SDD due to getting a troublesome FL2 myself.

Vibration shouldn't happen, but the things to check are.

From CV joints.
Rear diff is known to fail, I rebuilt mine after the one in there seized solid at 40. which was scary.

The rear diff needs regular oil changes, and even then the pinion tail bearing fails, although its not difficult to change.

The Haldex is in charge of 4X4 engagement, and it needs servicing, or it fails.

The FL2 should have the same tyres all round, just like the FL1, or the AWD system takes a pounding, every time you pull away or accelerate hard.

The PTU (the FL2 equivalent of the IRD) can fail, as can its splines to the gearbox, but this normally causes lack of drive to the rear.

You can't officially convert it to 2WD, however removing the propshaft will work, just as it does on the FL1.

Thank you sir I was hoping for your answer.
Will it throw an error on prop removal?
How can I check what the problem is, think is definitely in the rear although I am not certain.
If the diff locks or may already be locked the prop removal will not benefit much.
In regards to delphi I now use foxwell which fully covers all cars.
I will look into sdd as well, why not.

PRO said:

Will it throw an error on prop removal?

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No there will be no codes. You can also pull the fuse for the Haldex, but that does give a code and a warning at startup.

PRO said:

If the diff locks or may already be locked the prop removal will not benefit much.

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Hopefully it won't lock. Mine had been worked on my a moron, who didn't put any oil in it, presumably it was the same moron who dropped a nut into the engine.

PRO said:

In regards to delphi I now use foxwell which fully covers all cars.
I will look into sdd as well, why not.

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I had a running issue, so decided to replace the ECM, which only SDD can do.

But still I saw there has been some work on oil nut etc so might indeed not have oil.
But is there a step by step procedure of how to test these components? So far I understand there is the front transfer case, rear diff and haldex unit. Combined together is quite a fat bill. The rear diff alone puts me off perhaps I can get an gen4 used or some upgraded one? Or a used one.
Not sure where to start to fully identify the culprit. Also if I remove the prop is the haldex going to be affected somehow or it will just blindly transfer "torque" that won't exist anymore.

The rear diff fails, but generally just goes noisy, as 1 bearing fails on the pinion.

The Haldex is generally pretty strong, but does suffer pump failure, as a result of blocked filters, and thickened fluid.

The PTU can also fail, but this could be down to incorrect tyres, the FL2 is still fussy about tyres, just as the FL1 was.

I'd go through the whole drive train, checking fluid levels, or replacing them, and see how it goes.

So tyres and fluids first will be. Any proper info on fluid types quantity or should I use oil selectors? Thanks

Also in order to not open another thread.
I am missing bluetooth on mine. Is is a straight swap for a bluetooth unit/retrofit? I have the buttons on the steering wheel and I hope the microphone is prewired.

The engine seems to be vibrating more than usual. I suspect may be an engine mount. Also idle is at 900-950rpm for some reasons. Any advise on this side?
It's another project for me hehe. At least this one I enjoy and it's worthwhile as they hold up in value the good ones like mine is going to be.

PRO said:

So tyres and fluids first will be. Any proper info on fluid types quantity or should I use oil selectors?

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I used liquid moly oil in my diff and PTU.
There's a Haldex guide in my signature, to help with the servicing that. I used a service kit off ebay, which was about £50.

PRO said:

I am missing bluetooth on mine. Is is a straight swap for a bluetooth unit/retrofit? I have the buttons on the steering wheel and I hope the microphone is prewired.

The engine seems to be vibrating more than usual. I suspect may be an engine mount. Also idle is at 900-950rpm for some reasons. Any advise on this side?
It's another project for me hehe. At least this one I enjoy and it's worthwhile as they hold up in value the good ones like mine is going to be.

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If the phone switches are on the steering wheel, then check to see if the microphone is fitted too, it's in the interior light assembly I believe.

If you have all the parts, when it probably has BT, but it's failed, which does happen.

You can configure a replacement BT module, or add it along with anything else it needs using SDD.


The engine lower tie bar can get play in it, which does increase vibration, and can allow one of the pulleys to make contact with the boost pipes.

Welcome back Pro!!
We missed you.

Well has no BT cause the unit does not have the phone button or menu on the unit. I am also reading that the pre 2010 units have a problem where they will not pair with modern phones. And again I see that there is a separate BT module somewhere, on various locations moved through the years. Think is cheaper to put an android unit in that ugly empty storage space.

I see on the signature link on the guide just how to remove the diff, no links on ebay about the service kit etc. My issue on top of whining noise is this the juddering. Bell describes it: There are several issues these units can suffer, but one of the biggest problems is the unit releasing incorrectly, giving a juddering / graunching effect during slow speed manoeuvres. https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/freelander-2-products/

There is this kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292737368407 should I get it? I think is definitely gen3 mine will check on vin. Question is if it's easy enough to service it and it seems to me like for the haldex unit which is where my problem might be is only oil and filter. What exactly did you do on yours to fix?

Also can I get a pn for the lower tie/mount I am in the process of sorting microcat on a vm these days.

Thank you

Just checked tyres they are all the same with similar thread wear. That saves one expense leaving room for another.
Also I have a stack of bills and service history and it looks like this car had fitted matching tyres all the time. Hancock then some el cheapos in december 2019 and did abut 8k since.

Anyway I've ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Freeland...-Repair-Kit-Gen-3-High-Grade-OEM/303922066498
Will do a full rebuild with a priest nearby to splash some holy water and perhaps pray for me so it wouldn't be the Haldex unit and I will get away with this.
I've took out the fuse for haldex, car drives fine now so definitely something there. I rather have a warning in dash than feeling like the car breaking in half on turns. I will also do the sender unit fix whilst there.

In regards to the vibration... here is what the menu provides for my vin, got microcat now.
The upper one is widely available, tie rod style. The main one and the lower one (right down) can't find on ebay might be dealer only.
I suspect the upper one is more common for manufacturers to bother?

PRO said:

Well has no BT cause the unit does not have the phone button or menu on the unit.

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That's interesting. What stereo does it have fitted? Someone might have put a phone module equipped steering wheel in it, maybe to add cruise control. What model is the vehicle?

PRO said:

I am also reading that the pre 2010 units have a problem where they will not pair with modern phones.

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Mine pairs no problem with my Samsung Note 9, actually the phone integration is pretty good.

PRO said:

What exactly did you do on yours to fix?

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Let me see. What didn't I fix?
I replaced a piston, and repaired the cylinder head, but I've since ordered a low mileage replacement head, as I'm not happy the valves are sealing correctly.

I then replaced all the brakes, calipers, rotors, pad and parking brake shoes.
I had the rear diff seize on my way to work, but thought it was a parking brake issue, hence the new brakes, the diff then seized again within ¼ of a mile after doing the brakes, so it came home on the back of a lorry.
I then order an Evoque rear diff for £250, which I then rebuilt with a new pinion tail bearing, as mine was scrap, as it had no oil in it. I took the opportunity to service the Gen4 Haldex at the same time.

Otherwise its been a brilliant vehicle, if I ignore the misfire above 2500 RPM.

PRO said:

I think is definitely gen3 mine will check on vin. Question is if it's easy enough to service it and it seems to me like for the haldex unit which is where my problem might be is only oil and filter.

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You need to check the chassis number, to know that, or get underneath to look at it.

All that from a dropped nut? Mine has no misfire just quite noisy and it idles at 950rpm for some reasons, hence suspecting the vibrations.
Did you upgrade to gen4 or you had that from vehicle?
mine is a GS, has buttons on steering wheel but unit is this type as you can see phone buttons blanked off.
Question is does it require coding or codes if I nick one off a scrappy coco landy?

PRO said:

All that from a dropped nut? Mine has no misfire just quite noisy and it idles at 950rpm for some reasons, hence suspecting the vibrations.

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Mine idles at about 850 RPM, but will idle higher, if the heated screen is on, or I've put the climate control on programmed defrost.
Check the injector codes match what is stored in the ECM, and they're in the correct places too, as mine weren't. The Delphi WOW gives injector codes, just be aware the No1 injector is on the gearbox end of the engine.

PRO said:

Did you upgrade to gen4 or you had that from vehicle?

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Mine has a 9H chassis number, so has the Gen4 Haldex. 7H and 8H chassis numbers have the Gen3 Haldex. I want a Gen4 Haldex, so rejected 7h and 8H chassis number vehicles.

PRO said:

mine is a GS, has buttons on steering wheel but unit is this type as you can see phone buttons blanked off.

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I suspect the steering wheel has been changed then, as the base stereo doesn't support BT phone connectivity.

PRO said:

Question is does it require coding or codes if I nick one off a scrappy coco landy?

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You can't easily upgrade the base stereo to the Alpine highline stereo, as there's loads of bits missing, like amplifiers, MOST cables, subwoofer and wiring.

Alright I will pull the injectors out this week and send them to testing cause I suspect one is ticking. I know usually injector numbering is the firing order not from cam. I will check their codes to match or recode them anyway. This is a PSA engine and some of them have an issue where they lose the codes, not sure if it's the case here but worth a shot.
I guess the standard stereo will stay then, will just pimp it with some speakers and take advantage of the aux to throw some a2dp with mic perhaps even wire it nicely under the plastic console.

Any idea about the engine mount?

Thanks,
Paul

I wouldn't pull the injectors unnecessarily, as simply removing them can damage them.
Just check the numbers on them match the numbers stored in the ECM.

PRO said:

Any idea about the engine mount?

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It's available. I know of a few FL2 owners that have replaced it, due to it allowing the engine to rock too much.