Nodge68
Well-Known Member
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The flow to the radiator is controlled by the thermostat. The flow to all other parts of the system directed around the thermostat. This is correct or over cooling will result 
Freelander V6 Overheating
- Thread starter s1nn0n
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Hippo
Lord Hippo
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Does the cooling system pressurise when the coolant is hot? (squeeze large pipe at the top of the rad)
The cooling system MUST pressurise. This increases the temp the coolant needs to get to to boil.
Did you bleed the system with 2x bleed screws?
The cap needs to seal to the coolant reservoir. If not stop driving it.
The cooling system MUST pressurise. This increases the temp the coolant needs to get to to boil.
Did you bleed the system with 2x bleed screws?
The cap needs to seal to the coolant reservoir. If not stop driving it.
comdek
Member
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- 95
Hippo,
Yes, the top hose from rad is rigid on high temperature.
When I changed the thermostatic valve, I tested the pressurizing system with air and checking on the gauge the pressure. The system had no leaks.I put 10 PSI and gauge the pressure stays in 10 min test. If the pressure rises above 16psi, the reservoir cap releases the air.
To bleed the system, I completed the reservoir and open the screw of heater hose getting out the bubbles. Then I removed the small hose from the cylinder head and let out the bubbles from head. Started the engine I pressed the top hose several times to help get the rest of the air out. After open the bleed screw sometimes.
This second bleed screw you talk is what is behind the block? This screw I opened a long time ago (6 months) when I changed the coolant. This screw I read it only serves to drain all the coolant from the block, and not to bleed the system, am I right?
I tested today removing the top hose from rad to see if the engine coolant outlet has flow (temp 98ºC on ODB scanner), and the results are the same as the video from another user. 98ºC the thermostat was already open and I think the coolant flow is too low. In another car that I have (S10 2.4 MPFI) when I removed the top hose from rad the flow was much higher than that.
The video does not have the answer which was the problem.
My idea now is to change the water pump, but it is work to a week now.
Yes, the top hose from rad is rigid on high temperature.
When I changed the thermostatic valve, I tested the pressurizing system with air and checking on the gauge the pressure. The system had no leaks.I put 10 PSI and gauge the pressure stays in 10 min test. If the pressure rises above 16psi, the reservoir cap releases the air.
To bleed the system, I completed the reservoir and open the screw of heater hose getting out the bubbles. Then I removed the small hose from the cylinder head and let out the bubbles from head. Started the engine I pressed the top hose several times to help get the rest of the air out. After open the bleed screw sometimes.
This second bleed screw you talk is what is behind the block? This screw I opened a long time ago (6 months) when I changed the coolant. This screw I read it only serves to drain all the coolant from the block, and not to bleed the system, am I right?
I tested today removing the top hose from rad to see if the engine coolant outlet has flow (temp 98ºC on ODB scanner), and the results are the same as the video from another user. 98ºC the thermostat was already open and I think the coolant flow is too low. In another car that I have (S10 2.4 MPFI) when I removed the top hose from rad the flow was much higher than that.
The video does not have the answer which was the problem.
My idea now is to change the water pump, but it is work to a week now.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
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Don't know why your removing pipes. There's 2 bleed screws. If you need to get air out then you need to check air is released from both screws. If it has over heated then you still need to check both screws. If it loses pressure the coolant in the engine will boil (if it's hot) creating air and this will only come out via the engine bleed screw. Have a look on this fred for how to bleed:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/v6-overheating-please-look-at-video.282613/
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comdek
Member
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Hippo, thanks for answer.
Looking at the topic of the link you send, my problem is the same as Ascension user, including this part of the engine runs ok in idle, but boil when down to street. (https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ease-look-at-video.282613/page-2#post-3542737). Unfortunately we do not know what was the final solution to resolve the issue. I´ve checked the engine oil and it is ok, no milkshake.
Tomorrow I´ll try to get maximum air out from 2 bleed screws and test again, but I have no hope that this will work. After the car boiled the first time, I´ve checked the thermostatic valve and changed the timing belt, then ran for two weeks using the car all day, then boiled again.
The worst thing is to stand stopped on the highway with boiled car.
Looking at the topic of the link you send, my problem is the same as Ascension user, including this part of the engine runs ok in idle, but boil when down to street. (https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ease-look-at-video.282613/page-2#post-3542737). Unfortunately we do not know what was the final solution to resolve the issue. I´ve checked the engine oil and it is ok, no milkshake.
Tomorrow I´ll try to get maximum air out from 2 bleed screws and test again, but I have no hope that this will work. After the car boiled the first time, I´ve checked the thermostatic valve and changed the timing belt, then ran for two weeks using the car all day, then boiled again.
The worst thing is to stand stopped on the highway with boiled car.
comdek
Member
- Posts
- 95
Today I realized the bleeding again by 2 screws (heater hose and engine front screw) and from engine I don´t see bubbles coming out. From heater screw some bubbles out.
In garage with engine running, the temperature stays on 95ºC ~ 99ºC (min 92º/avg 99ºC/ max 106ºC) in 1h30 running. The radiator is usually warm.
When I went to the car in the street, after running about 15 minutes, the temp arrived at 108ºC at the traffic light and in a straight came 114ºC and 119ºC then, up the temperature gauge. I heard the noise of whistling in reservoir cap. Stopped the car for 5 min and temp go to 106ºC. I returned to home and the park with the engine running, the temperature dropped to 99°C and remained, not boiled over.
The engine has a very drastic temperature changes, coming from 112ºC to 96 ° C in seconds.
I´ve disconnected the temp sensor 2 from bottom hose for tests. With it turned off, the fan starts at low speed at 99°C and 110°C at maximum, even with the cold radiator.
I do not know what to do, because in the garage the car works, but on the street it boils.
In garage with engine running, the temperature stays on 95ºC ~ 99ºC (min 92º/avg 99ºC/ max 106ºC) in 1h30 running. The radiator is usually warm.
When I went to the car in the street, after running about 15 minutes, the temp arrived at 108ºC at the traffic light and in a straight came 114ºC and 119ºC then, up the temperature gauge. I heard the noise of whistling in reservoir cap. Stopped the car for 5 min and temp go to 106ºC. I returned to home and the park with the engine running, the temperature dropped to 99°C and remained, not boiled over.
The engine has a very drastic temperature changes, coming from 112ºC to 96 ° C in seconds.
I´ve disconnected the temp sensor 2 from bottom hose for tests. With it turned off, the fan starts at low speed at 99°C and 110°C at maximum, even with the cold radiator.
I do not know what to do, because in the garage the car works, but on the street it boils.
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zefrench
Active Member
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- Ontario, Canada
I am starting to wonder if the expansion tank cap might not be faulty preventing the system for properly pressurizing. Have you tested the cap?
I know of two V6 Freelander that had an issue of bad coolant expansion tank cap.
I know of two V6 Freelander that had an issue of bad coolant expansion tank cap.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
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It might be worth checking the water pump for a plastic impeller.I've seen the plastic impeller come loose and stop spinning when the engine heats up. There's no need to take the pump out to check as the impeller can be got at through the thermostat link pipe if you use a dental mirror or cheap endoscope.
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comdek
Member
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- 95
Nodge68,
I´ve checked the pump by thermostat link pipe:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/v6-total-loss-of-coolant.288632/#post-3563838
The impeller rotates with the axis correctly. With old timing belt the pump slips on belt. After changed the pump is ok.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
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- Near Newquay
I've never seen a pump slip on the timing belt unless the pump bearings have seized. You need to check everything again. The pump, coolant pipe routing and the thermostat. The thermostat could have been damaged by overheating.
comdek
Member
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- 95
Well, the results from today;
* Buy new cap from reservoir in Land Rover dealership and changed.
* Removed all coolant, removing from bottom house and engine bleed screw.
* Tested 15 minutes with 10 PSI, no leaking and air noise detected.
* Put 4 liters of coolant adictive (red) and water.
* Bleeded bubbles using engine screw.
* Bleeded using using heater hose screw
* Completed reservoir at MAX mark with coolant.
* Started engine and wait 5 min in idle. Turn off engine. Wait 15min to cool.
* Squeezing the bottom hose and bleeded again in heater hose screw.
* Completed reservoir at MAX mark with coolant.
* Running engine 7 minutes variyng in idle and 3500rpm. (In ODB Scanner, temp variyng 99 ~102ºC)
* Wait 40min to cool.
* Completed reservoir at MAX mark with coolant.
* Run out to street. After 40 minutes running (Temp varying 96ºC ~ 108ºC), on a climb the temperature goes to 120ºC and red light on. Stopped the car, wait to cool and returned to home.
Given up all hope.
* Buy new cap from reservoir in Land Rover dealership and changed.
* Removed all coolant, removing from bottom house and engine bleed screw.
* Tested 15 minutes with 10 PSI, no leaking and air noise detected.
* Put 4 liters of coolant adictive (red) and water.
* Bleeded bubbles using engine screw.
* Bleeded using using heater hose screw
* Completed reservoir at MAX mark with coolant.
* Started engine and wait 5 min in idle. Turn off engine. Wait 15min to cool.
* Squeezing the bottom hose and bleeded again in heater hose screw.
* Completed reservoir at MAX mark with coolant.
* Running engine 7 minutes variyng in idle and 3500rpm. (In ODB Scanner, temp variyng 99 ~102ºC)
* Wait 40min to cool.
* Completed reservoir at MAX mark with coolant.
* Run out to street. After 40 minutes running (Temp varying 96ºC ~ 108ºC), on a climb the temperature goes to 120ºC and red light on. Stopped the car, wait to cool and returned to home.
Given up all hope
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B34R
Active Member
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Sorry, this is where I'm suddenly confused, do you have a 1.8 K series or a 2.5?
comdek
Member
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Here is some videos warming up and overheating. At 3:40 the temp drops from 96ºC to 92ºC, the thermostat valve opens.
The engine come to 116ºC and boil. The bottom hose was hot and I disconnected the Temp Sensor 2. After this, the fan was started on max speed and temp down to 96ºC. I have seen bubbles in the return hose from the reservoir. This video has to realize that the fan did not turn on at the right temperature. Yesterday in tests I had disconnected the sensor 2 too and the fan was on maximum speed with the car in movement with the temperature at 120°C.
At 3:32 the temp coming up
The engine come to 116ºC and boil. The bottom hose was hot and I disconnected the Temp Sensor 2. After this, the fan was started on max speed and temp down to 96ºC. I have seen bubbles in the return hose from the reservoir. This video has to realize that the fan did not turn on at the right temperature. Yesterday in tests I had disconnected the sensor 2 too and the fan was on maximum speed with the car in movement with the temperature at 120°C.
At 3:32 the temp coming up
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