Freelander 1 V6 - Total Loss Of Coolant

Someone please help, I'm at my wits end in this ! So today I took my FL1 V6 for its MOT, it passed !!!! Phew !!!! However, on my return home, the temp gauge started to creep up, just as I pulled in, I heard what was like a "mass bubble" noise from the dash, stopped the engine and opened up the bonnet, the expansion tank was near on overflowing and bubbling away, and the fans were going mental ! I left it to cool down and now the expansion tank is empty but I can't see where this has gone, no evidence of leaks at all !!

Also, there seems to be black deposits in the now empty tank !

The stat has been replaced recently (tested as working), along with the expansion tank and cap (both pressure tested), anyone any clues?

First I would check in the V for coolant if there is no sign of coolant or it's residue, the next step would be to fill up with coolant making sure that the system is bleed properly, start the landy up and let it reach temp watching the temp gauge and make a note of when the fans kick in which should be about 100c on the V6 after this report beak to the forum Arctic2

Thanks Arctic2, I've checked in the V and its bone dry, so I'll fill it up again with coolant as you suggest and start it up ! Is there anything obvious it could be though ? Maybe could've been an airlock (might explain the bubble noise I heard)?

Also, what would explain the black deposits in the expansion tank?

Before filling with coolant check the condition of the engine oil.

Make sure you bleed the coolant correctly when you refill. There's 2 bleed screws on the v6. Look on this fred for info: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/v6-overheating-please-look-at-video.282613/

What was the stat and coolant reservoir changed?

I´m having overheating problems in my Freelander , but the cooling liquid level is not lowering. I suspect the water pump, it is possible to turn it with a screwdriver as video below. I do not know if timing belt (loose) that is slipping in pump or plastic impeller spinning false in the axis.

I think I found the problem. After pass wax in the timing belt (using the tip of a candle), the water pump was not rotate with the screwdriver more. The wax has more grip on the belt and pump not skidded more. I´ll install the thermostatic housing and test again if the engine does not overheat more. If successful, a solved problem, only change the timing belt (it's time! 115.000km).



Candle in timming belt:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5b0pdfkaufqss80/20150831_220632.jpg?dl=0

Back to op, the black deposits are oil, either from engine via head gasket, or transmission via cooler

Right, system bleed (to the letter as per instructions) and it seems like I still have a problem as after just on 7 minutes (as per the bleed procedure) it starts to boil over in the expansion tank !

Can't see any obvious leaks however when I squeeze the bottom Rad hose, there is a sort of "squelch" noise from within the V !! Could it be the system isn't fully air tight and therefore not pressurised? If so, anyone any ideas where the problem could be as within the V its bone dry?

It not uncommon for the O rings to leak water into the V. Also check the oil for water contamination.

whiperx said:

Right, system bleed (to the letter as per instructions) and it seems like I still have a problem as after just on 7 minutes (as per the bleed procedure) it starts to boil over in the expansion tank !

Can't see any obvious leaks however when I squeeze the bottom Rad hose, there is a sort of "squelch" noise from within the V !! Could it be the system isn't fully air tight and therefore not pressurised? If so, anyone any ideas where the problem could be as within the V its bone dry?

Click to expand...

The squelch sound is probably air in the engine or the top hose by the radiator if it's the same squelch I had. To get this air out you need to remove the engine drain plug to flow coolant through the engine, to get the air out, if it's the engine. If it's the top pipe by the rad then wiggle the pipe a bit or squeeze it gently to flow the coolant round the system. you should see it pump into the coolant reservoir.
If it doesn't pressurise when hot, then the engine can overheat and boil the coolant, so be careful. This will cause damage if it happens. hgf etc.

As others have said, look in the v of the engine for coolant loss. If you take oft the plastic acoustic cover and shine a torch in the gaps you will be able to see in the v of the engine. The black plastic pipe in there contains coolant. Also the thermostat housing etc. Below is a pic from of the side of what you should expect.


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Thanks for the advice everyone...

I've checked in the V and there is definitely no evidence of a leak in there. So it must be somewhere else ! Also, when I squeeze the bottom rad hose, the strange "squelch" is definitely coming from within the V area, so I'm thinking it must be either the new stat housing or the pipe across the V (from the stat) that aren't completely sealed... Strange though as even when it's running (and getting up to pressure) there is no loss in this area.

I did use the front engine drain plug to flush out any air when I filled it back up with coolant, as well as the rear bleed pipe.

Will keep on looking !!!!

Also, on the black "deposits" in the expansion tank. On closer inspection at first they appear to be black, however when I scrap some out and them rub in my fingers they do actually have a red/brownish tint (a bit like rust), could this be a problem with the transmission cooler (and actually be the whole problem)???

Thanks..

The coolant goes through the transmission cooler which also has auto fluid passing through it. They shouldn't mix. It's possible the cooler may have a leak. It's listed on the pic above.
How long have you have the vehicle? If it's not long then I was wondering if the last owner put a liquid fix in the coolant which may be the residue.
Is there a cream looking paste in the engine oil filler cap? If so this would indicated coolant and engine oil mixing which it shouldn't.
Some v6's are more difficult than others to flush the coolant but you should be able to get most of it out when stationary, with the remaining coming out with a short drive.
Is the gearbox selection smooth when driving?

I've not had it long at all, about 3 months and had problems with overheating since I bought it ! So far I've changed the following:
Thermostat
Various Hoses
Expansion Tank
Expansion Tank Cap
Coils
Injectors
Bought a new water pump but not yet fitted

Actually, re the oil filler, it does look very dry in there, much drier than I've seen in my other vehicles, but the dip stick is showing bob on, definitely no sign of any (or ever having) any cream paste!

I wouldn't say the gear change is actually that bad to be honest, but then again, this is my first auto!

The water might not be going anywhere, other than out of the pressure cap. The KV6 needs careful bleeding, sometimes multiple times. I find it better to have the rear of the car lifted to help the air out of the heater bleed plug.
You could also use the live data to get an idea of running temperature.

Red in the expansion bottle might also be radweld or some other brand thereof.

B34R said:

Red in the expansion bottle might also be radweld or some other brand thereof.

Click to expand...

I thought the same when I first seen it. Also the fact it's not long been bought. When tipping in a liquid fix it often colours the reservoir.