Freelander td4 problems (various)

Hi.

I bought a 2005 freelander td4 manual with 80k miles. Some of these problems i found before purchase and bartered a discount for, some only showed after a few extended drives. It's a long list, but it's an otherwise tidy car.

It's been a while since i have worked on cars, or even owned one, so i'm a bit rusty. I'm also on a budget, while needing to make sure the car is good for regular high mileage drives. I also have no idea which aftermarket or OEM freelander parts are ok to use or cr*p.

Hopefully someone can see if i'm on the right track and recommend the appropriate parts where needed. Or give me a heads up fidf special tools are needed for anything, or, if there are shortcuts to speed the jobs up for me.. Please forgive the long post and cheers for any input.

EDIT: have photo's if needed but i can't see how to upload them to a post.



Problem 1: Knock from rear (priority)

I have been under the car and identified a few problems:
Minor cracking on one of the central prop bearing mounts
Broken rear diff mount (prop end)
Minor cracking to l+R rear diff mounts
Leaks on rear diff at prop end and on one shaft
Leak on rear (cv?) joint

Is minor cracking a problem for the prop/diff mounts or only splitting?
Do i need to replace bearings or anything else when i do the diff seals?
Is there a 'rebuild pack' that would have all the bits i need?
How 'dire' is this? Just seals or a sign of VCU/DIFF failure?
What fluid do i use to refill and how much?
Are the cheaper mounts/seals etc good enough for this job or do i need oem/genuine?



Problem 2: Engine sounds increasingly whistly/whirry as revs increase.

It reminds me of the turbo whistle of a 300tdi, only louder and a bit chirpier (under load)

There is a pipe that come from the turbo, on the rear left hand side of the engine (by the turbo filter) as you look at the car. It runs vertically (from what i could feel) to somewhere. It has a small hole in it, which i temp fixed with a silicone compound until i can get a hose. It took some of the higher pitched noise away, but the bulk remans. I checked intercooler hoses at the front of the engine, couldn't find any other leaks.

I also checked the air intake system and given it a clean.

I am not sure which hose to buy, the ones i find are all for the intercooler hoses at the front of the engine. I couldn't see around the engine clearly either, so i could have missed something.

Which hose do i need and are the aftermarket ones any good?
Are there any more hoses that i have missed?
Assuming i have checked all pipes, is there another possible reason for the noise?



Problem 3: Lack of power at top end, especially at higher speed.

It just kinda goes flat higher up the revs sometime, more so uphill. I cleaned the EGR valve. I intend to check the MAF sensor. Going to order the BMW crankcase breather and a air/fuel/turbo filter. Going to degrease the inlet manifold (EGR gunk).

Is it wise to service the turbo solenoid valve while there [if it's possible, or should it be replaced if at fault]?
Will i need new gaskets/seals for the inlet manifold / rocker cover / injectors?



Problem 4: Brake juddering.

Feels a bit choppy and gives an audible noise when i press the brake. It's like a juddering/grating. Removing the ABS fuse changed nothing. It also sounds very loud when hill descent is on. It seems to remain noisier for a time after using hill decent too. It also disappeared completely for a drive, then reappeared upon next use (this happened after removing the ABS fuse, but i have not been able to replicate it, so assume it was coincidence).

I'm going to fit new pads/shoe's and check the drums/discs/ABS sensors/reluctor rings for damage.
I figure it could not ABS sensors or reluctor rings though,since it still happens with the ABS fuse removed?
Does this car have reluctor rings? I was reading some freelanders do not.



Problem 4: Clutch

Dealer agreed to pay for a replacement clutch to be fitted. Garages also want to fit a flywheel. The vehicle has not been inspected by the garages. Should it need a new flywheel at 80k miles? I'm going to have to pay the extra for the flywheel to be fitted.

The garages reckon there is no way of telling until they see it. Surely it would have symptoms if worn?
If it does need doing, are the aftermarket/OEM ones any good?
Is it something that is supposed to be replaced with the clutch, or, is the flywheel on the freelander not so bad?



Problem 5: Wheel alignment.

Car was pulling left and had loose steering. I fitted new front drop links. Less slack, but now a bit twitchy with some torque steer.

EDIT: Might be using the wrong term 'torque steer'. When i accelerate it feels like it is keen to turn and a little twitchy

There are quite a few wheel alignment options at the tyre shop than the last time i had to get it done. What do i need? Just basic tracking of front wheels, or, the fancy electronic wheel alignment options?

Hi. I feel your pain. I own a 2006 Freelander td4 and have just paid LR dealer Enniskillen £800 to still have the same problem not fixed......

Anyway in relation to the clutch, what is it doing that you think it needs changing? I ask because I had a 2005 Freelander td4 witch had a clutch issue. There right about the flywheel and not knowing till the clutch is open to see if the flywheel needs changing or not. Been honest I sold my 2005 Freelander because the clutch was not in a really bad way but the cost out weighed the value of the car. LR were quoting including the flywheel somewhere in or around £1000.

The torque steer you mention could go back to any issues with the 4 wheel drive system and basically to much torque going through the front drive. Mine is in 2 wheel drive (not by choice) and will wheel spin in the wet

Brakes.

My brakes on the 2006 one now where making a lot of audio like screeching. My front discs were unevenly worn. Changed the front pads and discs and all brake issues are gone.

Clutch feels stiff and is slipping under load sometimes, so it needs doing. Hard to tell if there is feedback or judder in the pedal with it being so stiff, no obvious things telling me the flywheel is shot but im not sure what they do when they are kaput. Had prices of £560 for the clutch, £960 inc flywheel. Dealer is liable for the clutch, but probably not the flywheel. He is dragging his feet over the flywheel, understandably.

The torque steer only started after i replaced the drop links, which i knew would throw the geometery a little. Steering feels rather light and twitchy too. Before the drop links it pulled to the left, now it doesn't, it just feels skittish. Kinda like the wheels are toeing in a little.

Problem 3. In relation to fitting the BMW crankcase breather, it is worth mentioning that I have just had my crankcase breather changed to try to fix my problem and I'll be honest with you the LR technician did argu that there is no real benefits to the BMW replacement as the filter supplied in the original is a standard service part and as it is a filter it does a better job as it collects partials and when it reaches the end of its life you just replace it.... thought I'd mention it.

TBH i was thinking to just replace the filter as you say (for cost reasons though), but was under the impression the BMW item was superior and needed no servicing. Interesting, will give it some more thought.

That is the exact same as my clutch was doing. Under heavy load the car would kind of free rev from say 1200rpm to 3000rpm then it's like it would catch up with itself. I'd argu that it's not your cost the clutch needs doing and as a by product of the clutch failing it could well have caused a flywheel issue if indeed the flywheel needs doing. If the pedal is so stiff then probably the clutch master cylinder will need doing too.

Crankcase breather. Exactly as you said is what I always thought but the technician in Land Rover Enniskillen said there is no major advantage more then sticking with the regular filter and changing it ever service interval.

Doing the drop links won't affect the suspension geometry at all. It sounds like something is amiss with the suspension though. A Freelander shouldn't get torque steer unless the 4X4 system is dissabled and it's running front wheel drive. That's where I'd start, especially if you are having diff trouble. The diff fitted to the Freelander is very long lasting, but only if it's not been damaged by a stiffening VCU.

Your brake judder is the front discs. These will have warped or been damaged by lack of use.
There's no ABS rings on an 05 Freelander and if there is an ABS fault, the warning light will be on.
The HTC does make quite a bit of noise but stiff calipers make it feel worse than it should.

Nodge68 said:

Doing the drop links won't affect the suspension geometry at all. It sounds like something is amiss with the suspension though. A Freelander shouldn't get torque steer unless the 4X4 system is dissabled and it's running front wheel drive. That's where I'd start, especially if you are having diff trouble. The diff fitted to the Freelander is very long lasting, but only if it's not been damaged by a stiffening VCU.

Click to expand...

Oh, i had has a similar feel on a front wheel drive car before, that was fixed with tracking. Very light steering, less grip, very keen to turn. I thought the drop link must have stiffened things up enough to change the left pull that existed (probably tracking) to more of an inward toe. In other words is it possible the tracking issue was always present but the drop links just changed the way it felt/manifested?

If not i'll check my VCU, do yo think this is a symptom of it locking or not engaging? Ill test both when i get chance. Visibly the VCU seems ok, but that probably means little. No slack in the central props. No slack in the rear drive shafts. Minor play on the front inner cv's. All the knackered mounts/seals are rearwards of the VCU and centralised on the diff. I had assumed the damage was caused by the rear diff mount failure, which is the only bush which has visibly split through. I hope it's not the VCU.

The diff is the main priority right now and main concern.

Nodge68 said:

Your brake judder is the front discs. These will have warped or been damaged by lack of use.
There's no ABS rings on an 05 Freelander and if there is an ABS fault, the warning light will be on.
The HTC does make quite a bit of noise but stiff calipers make it feel worse than it should.

Click to expand...

Sometimes the judder is distinctly from the rear. Sometimes on the fronts as well. It doesn't pull on braking, just sounds rough and judders. Could be both discs and drums then i guess. Ill check them when i replace the pads then (which are visibly knackered) and service the drum mechanisms / check the calipers too.

Cheers

Drop links do nothing to affect the suspension at all. They simply link the anti roll bar to the strut. They can't affect tracking, tow, caster or camber.
Torque steer shouldn't be there at all. Not even the 180Bhp V6 suffers from it. However if the 4X4 has been dissabled, torque steer and wheel spin become very evident. I suspect that your diff issues are VCU related. That's where you need to be looking. It's easy to do the one wheel up test for confirmation. If the 4X4 system is damaged, then return the vehicle, unless you bought it as spares or repairs.

Just took it through a shallow river and some shallow quicksand. Couldn't get any wheel to spin, but didn't want to push my luck and drop the clutch given the knocking.

If i turn a corner, full lock in a lower gear, it only 'winds up' and slows down slightly. Giving some resistance but not shocking amounts, but i have nothing to compare it to. Same for reverse on full lock.

Ill try the tipex and wheel tests early next week

Ill just check im using the correct term when i say torque steer. It doesn't shoot off in one direction under acceleration, it just sometimes seems to waver slightly when i accelerate, as if it wants to go somewhere. The more acceleration, the more noticable it is.

Definitely do the one wheel up test as described in the sticky section and post the results to help others
It sounds like your front suspension needs bushes and likely alignment too. I generally do tracking myself. It's important that the steering rack is centered. Most quick fit type places don't do this vital adjustment first. There's also little point in getting the alignment done if the bushes and ball joints are shot.

Additionally something has made the rear diff begin to fail. It's a good strong unit which is favoured by kit car enthusiasts as it can take over 400Bhp reliably. As to repairing it, I wouldn't bother. There are loads of low mileage, second hand units for sale for less than a bearing kit.

Well i read up on the one wheel up test and the tipex test for the VCU. Sounds completely pseudo-scientific and there is not really anything for me to compare against to confirm it is either good or bad. I'll do the tests, but I'm not really seeing how that can help me or others when the diff could well even be adding resistance right now. Maybe i'm missing something? I am trying to cram a lot of reading in atm. I'm thinking of taking it off to see if i can find a way to either get it tested professionally, or, to try and diagnose it off the car.

The diff doesn't actually seem that bad. I found no play in the bearings, just oil leaks. Not exactly a rare thing to see, but ofc i will look for more signs of damage. If i have to do them myself, how bad are the drive shaft oil seals? I reckon i could do the mounts and front pinion while the diff is still in situ, the shaft seals look like they want the drive shafts pulling out though which adds more work than i would like, but is still possible for me.

Ill take another look at all the bushes and ball joints for play in the steering. I have probably missed something.

Is this plan reasonable?....

I'll get the mechanic to inspect and quote for the rear diff repairs while i'm in the garage getting the clutch done (all free so far). Might not be so bad for just seals, mounts and a fluid top up; but if it's expensive i'll do it myself. If the diff is terminal i'll consider returning the car or buying a used diff if one is available cheap.

The VCU can always be pulled off for the time being until after i get the diff sorted, at which point i can either refit or replace. Ill do the centre bearings at the same time. To be fair it is kinda clear the VCU was inevitably going to need replacing on an 80k freelander at some point so i'll take that on the chin.

At the end of the day i got it well under price so i can afford to replace these bits myself without any real loss. If i need a new DMF as well while the clutch is replaced it will only bring me slightly over budget. Turbo hoses, filters etc (performance problems) are pretty much pocket money so i'm not too stressed over it so far.

It was mentioned earlier the IRD could be damaged with no signs to see. I can't just assume it's damaged because the VCU might be failing, there seems to be plenty of people out there swapping buggered VCU's without swapping the IRD. So without some kind of indication of damage it seems crazy to assume it needs replacing, maybe im wrong. Does the IRD not also have transmission fluid and a magnetic drain bung? If so i'll inspect for signs of swarf and fatigued fluid in the IRD. If i can confirm tha it's knackered, again, ill take the car back.

IRD does need oil changes and yes there's a magnoplug on the drain. The oil should be a fully synthetic 75w90 as it's a highly stressed unit.
The rear diff drive shaft seals are easy, once you get the shafts out. The pinion seal is a fiddle and the nose nut needs tightening to the exact position it was removed from so as not to compress the collapsible spacer any more than it was in the factory.
The VCU is worth testing using the one wheel up test. You diff won't affect the results. The VCU can't really be tasted any more accurately by a professional then you can do at home using the above named test.
Timings of more than a minute would be into replacement VCU territory.

Spot on.

Ill aim to check the VCU and inspect the IRD/diff before it goes to the garage. Will get appropriate oils and fibre washers ready for an oil change on the gearbox, IRD and rear diff. Hopefully it wont be much extra to get the pinion and shaft seals + mounts done while it's on the lift for the clutch, if not ill buy the parts.

With the diff, would it be an idea to get a new nut and spacer and just tighten it to factory torque? Or do as you described. Also, can the breather be replaved easily if it's damaged? I dont have a manual to hand for reference, will buy one monday.

Also, are aftermarket mounts and seals ok or should i go OEM/genuine?

Thanks for all the help, it's much appreciated.

Is there an exact brand and type anyone would recommend for each fluid (manual gearbox, ird and rear diff)?