Freelander TD4 Engine Undertray?

Hi everyone. I need a little bit of info that will be useful for what I'm about to do.
To begin with, I have been scouring the LandyZone site for information regarding replaceing my FL1's, Water Pump + Thermostat, both drive belts and servicing the 'leaks-when-cold' HP Injector Fuel Pump. All 3 will be done together, especially as each job seems to overlap the others.

I'm getting all the parts and special tools I need (I should buy shares in Ebay), oils, etc, too. I've even copied the relevent information with accompanying pictures for each project, so referencing should be easy. All these little bits of information is absolutely invaluable, so thanks to all the LandyZone contributers. It's a great team effort.

The one little bit of information I need is... the Engine Undertray on my FL1 has two mounting-bolts at the rear and four rivets, 2 at each side. I'm guessing there should be two screws on each side instead, supposing a garage has at somepoint fitted the rivets as perhaps the screws were knackered. It's a professional job and if I'm correct I'll need to drill 'em out and replace them with screws instead. A hole was cut where the Engine Oil Sump plug could be accessed. Very clever.
So, should there be screws instead of rivets? I've already tried to remove the stubborn tray but these rivets are solid, as is the tray in consequence.
My Haynes manual only ever refers to 'removing the tray', but doesn't seem to give any great level of details. Help?

does this help u

PopRivet said:

Hi everyone. I need a little bit of info that will be useful for what I'm about to do.
To begin with, I have been scouring the LandyZone site for information regarding replaceing my FL1's, Water Pump + Thermostat, both drive belts and servicing the 'leaks-when-cold' HP Injector Fuel Pump. All 3 will be done together, especially as each job seems to overlap the others.

I'm getting all the parts and special tools I need (I should buy shares in Ebay), oils, etc, too. I've even copied the relevent information with accompanying pictures for each project, so referencing should be easy. All these little bits of information is absolutely invaluable, so thanks to all the LandyZone contributers. It's a great team effort.

The one little bit of information I need is... the Engine Undertray on my FL1 has two mounting-bolts at the rear and four rivets, 2 at each side. I'm guessing there should be two screws on each side instead, supposing a garage has at somepoint fitted the rivets as perhaps the screws were knackered. It's a professional job and if I'm correct I'll need to drill 'em out and replace them with screws instead. A hole was cut where the Engine Oil Sump plug could be accessed. Very clever.
So, should there be screws instead of rivets? I've already tried to remove the stubborn tray but these rivets are solid, as is the tray in consequence.
My Haynes manual only ever refers to 'removing the tray', but doesn't seem to give any great level of details. Help?

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There should be no rivets are you looking at the right bit lots of screws and bolts to undo but no rivets. First time I took my tray off it looked odd with rivets but I was looking at the wrong bit. Take us a photo of the bit you are looking at.

Madmustang said:

There should be no rivets are you looking at the right bit lots of screws and bolts to undo but no rivets. First time I took my tray off it looked odd with rivets but I was looking at the wrong bit. Take us a photo of the bit you are looking at.

Click to expand...

understand what u mean ref the rivets , until u see the bolts tucked away to the side

The rivits are supposed to be there. The alloy side rails come off with the plastic section inbetween.
The total number of bolts depends on the year.
The alloy side rails are secured with 3 or 4 bolts. 2 at the rear, with 10mm (13mm spanner) bolts each side, near the lower wishbone front mounting bolt. 1 or 2 at the front attaching the side rail to the front cross member. The rear of the plastic section is secured to the subframe by 2 X 6mm (10mm spanner) bolts. The front lower bumper is attached to the alloy front cross brace by 2 X self tappers or 4 X 4mm (8mm spanner) bolts.
The plastic section between the alloy frames stays attached, which is why it's riveted to the alloy frame.

This is a pre-facelift sump guard, with a hole cut to access the sump plug.
This is how it's removed.

Excellent. My question has certainly been answered by all who (quickly) responded. I'll check it out tomorrow. I'm presently waiting on a phone call to drive to the local town to collect the first of many deliveries concerning my car's projects. Living in a mountain region can have its downside... sometimes. There's going to be lot to collect. Lol.

PopRivet said:

Excellent. My question has certainly been answered by all who (quickly) responded. I'll check it out tomorrow. I'm presently waiting on a phone call to drive to the local town to collect the first of many deliveries concerning my car's projects. Living in a mountain region can have its downside... sometimes. There's going to be lot to collect. Lol.

Click to expand...

Are you doing a write up on your project and posting it on here?

Yes. I have this habit of taking photographs as I progress. I will record everything that is relevant to carrying out a successful operation. On top of this, I received new brake shoes today, including springs and clips. I'm devoting lots of energy to keeping vehicle I recognise as one of the best running, regardless of expense or working hours. I will keep a journal, including photographs to show what has been done. It'll be a while, I'm sure, but if it is a success, it'll be worth it to know others may follow suit.
My brake parts arrived today, and waiting for the piton seals before I commence that project.
Wow, so much to do, but for a very good cause. My Freelander. It's worth it!

Oh,one more thing... I reckon I'll be doing a mod on the undertray as its removal seems to be Ott. It's a cover, a basis for protecting systems. It shouldn't be Fort-Bloody Knocks with locks and bolts! It should be a form of protection that is easily accessed. I will work on a mod, one that is easy to the install. It cannot be that difficult to work out. I'll let you know in due course.
KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid. Says it all.

keep us informed lots of pics

See what you have started

PopRivet said:

Oh,one more thing... I reckon I'll be doing a mod on the undertray as its removal seems to be Ott. It's a cover, a basis for protecting systems. It shouldn't be Fort-Bloody Knocks with locks and bolts! It should be a form of protection that is easily accessed. I will work on a mod, one that is easy to the install. It cannot be that difficult to work out. I'll let you know in due course.
KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid. Says it all.

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I replaced the plastic part with alloy so it was a bit stronger but also bolted it in place with 4 bolts. It's much easier to remove four bolts you can see and get at easily than the four awkward bolts and 2 stupidly awkward bolts.

Yes you can modify the plastic/resin part of the under tray, as you say once you have taken the whole tray off including the alloy frame then you will see how easy it is to modify, so in the future you will only be removing the plastic/resin part to do the oil change and or check sump area etc.

Thanks everyone. I won't be the 1st to modify this panel then? Lol To carry out my projects the panel's removal has to be the first step on this journey of discovery. I will record each step I take and eventually post the result.

I'm all for making the sump guard stronger, but can't see much point in making it easier to remove. With the right tools and well greased bolts, it comes off in less than 10 minutes.

Hi Nodge68, and I'll certainly take on board what you say, making a decision when I experience the task. Thanks.

Nodge68 said:

I'm all for making the sump guard stronger, but can't see much point in making it easier to remove. With the right tools and well greased bolts, it comes off in less than 10 minutes.

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I hate to admit it Nodge but you're right. I rarely take off the alloy part only. Most times I'm working on the car the whole lot comes off.

I've just finished! Tools are away, I've showered and poured myself a G&T before writing the following.
From start to finish, it took a little over two hours, and that includes getting the tools out, etc.
What a pain in the asp that was!! I'm wondering if the tray had ever been removed? If should have been, going by the full recorded service history... but who know? Cynical? Me? Nah. lol
Anyway, bolts were as good as seized, but copious amounts of WD40 plus a bit of arm wrestling - ouch, I took the skin of one of my knuckles in the process.
However, off it came. The front-mounting bolts are a sod to reach and get a good purchase on, but perseverence always pays off.
Actuall, I was over the moon when it dropped beneath the car, because then I knoew I had done it correctly. So thank you all for the information you gave me, pictures too.
I took photo's as I went, including carrying out a modification. I was in no doubt about that. It will only take a couple of minutes to remove the tray now, so everything on the enfgine's underside will now be treated to a lot of TLC.
And as Nodge68 suggested, I greesed the bolts before refitting them. And I must add, I already do this to each and every bolt/screw/fastener, etc, as I work on something. It pays to do so.
Anyway, that's my preparation completed for the next phase of my main to-do project. Service the HP Fuel Pump, replace the coolant pump & thermostat, and replacing the two drive belts. I'm just waiting for all the parts to arrive, then it's Showtime!
I bought coolant today, ready to go. There are tools yet to arrive plus all the engine parts.

Nice one bud I now know what to do next yearnot dreading it so much now

Some of us drill large holes (approx 25mm) in the lower bumper so the bolts are easier reached. The holes are not visible unless you're looking for them.