Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander immobaliser issue

Hi all,
I have looked in the threads and could only find an old one regarding this, but it provoked a good deal of discussion......!
I have a 2006 Freelander commercial, (no rear seats), when turning the key to start most of the time it will not for a while.
Basically just turn the key to hold in the start position and there is some clicking from under the dash, (roughly in the middle above the heater/audio controls), which is at different rates and intervals, it could be 2 seconds or 2 minutes, but will start, sometimes there is no clicking, will not turn over, the clicking will start and then turns over OK.
Its been described by the previous owner as a 'lazy key', which throws up different things on a search.
my question would be which part is likely to be failing, the coil around the barrel or the relay/immobiliser ecu? under the dash.

What model commercial is it. You've put it under the FL2 header. However a 2006 is more likely to be a FL1, which is a completely different vehicle.

Aaah, thanks I was going on the general appearance, I shall look on the plate tomorrow.......

Better late than never... the log book offers no useful info as there is no variant or type, the build plate has been replaced by a Land Rover special vehicles plate with a contract number, but the date is Feb 2006 so probably a FL1.
Based on the fact it's a 1, any ideas?

Thanks....

I can't really tell from the picture whether its an F1 or F2

Threads started before your post and still active...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/strange-starting-problems.308826/

and...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...cking-starter-solenoid-design-problem.303481/

If the vin is SALLN... it's a Freelander 1. If SALFA... it's a Freelander 2.

Thanks all so far, looking at the logbook its a 1.
I'm sure its not the starter solenoid as the clicking is in the cabin, under the dash in the center of the upper part.
I like the idea of the push button to start, but does the immobaliser only stop the starter energising? are there any other spin offs?
If poss i would like to solve, but it doesn't seem the same as the previous threads.
Could it be the coil pick up around the ignition, or is there a relay that it goes to under the dash in the cabin?

Thanks

The immobiliser could be causing your problem. There's been a run of them of late. GG linked a couple of recent threads.
The immobiliser also stops fuel from being injected, so bypassing the starting immobilisation doesn't compromise the security to much.

I haven't looked into specifics, but there's all sorts of stuff in the cabin that can be switching - I'm not sure what is under control of the CCU and what's wired through the run/crank positions of the switch - but various stuff is disabled when the starter is energised then enabled once its not - it could even be your radio being switched on and off that is making the noise.

I would add your experience to the clicking starter solenoid thread listed above - it may provoke some ideas on there.

Seeing as I started the drama of the other thread !! My investigation so far is as follows.
When correct key is inserted and turned to position 1, the immob checks key is correct and passes code to ECU to allow a start to proceed when the start position 3 is used. What I think you can hear is the immob relay clicking which indicated all is well up to that relay. The immob unit is mounted where you are hearing the click ! So - next step is to check feed to starter relay (R2 in engine bay under the plastic lift flap near passenger side). If no feed then you have a faulty relay in the immob unit or wiring fault. If relay is getting feed but starter not turning you have a starter relay or wiring fault in the remainder of the circuit.

Good luck - removing the immob unit looks tricky. But as GG suggests we need to merge the threads as this is all related to the 'clicking starter solenoid' thread.

Thanks for the info,
the clicking is not consistent, when waiting for it to kick in sometimes its not there, sometimes the odd click, sometimes builds to a crescendo and it will start,
It would appear, based on the above, it is the relay at fault.
I will investigate and update.
As being a new member, can you tell me how to merge the threads and i'll give it a go.

thanks for your help.

I don't think you can 'merge' threads as such, but it'd be great if you add your descriptions above to that thread.

It would be a good idea for you to download the Rave workshop manual. It describes all the starting components and where they are in the car. I've added a post to the clicking solenoid thread giving a bit more info and where to download it from.

Having now read the RAVE it appears to be the immobiliser ECU in the center of the dash which contains the starter relay. Although looks not to bad to replace as its a plug in unit there's a complicated coding system between it, the key and the vehicles ECU.
RAVE states that units will only be sold to authorised dealers and the factory has to pre-program it with the vehicles details before fitting so it will work in harmony with the other units.
Looks like I shall be turning to position 3 and waiting for it to kick in for a bit as may be a dealer only fix!

Or link it out.
The immobiliser is pretty easy to prove. The starter switch feeds 12 V crank signal to pin 8 of immobiliser ECU on the White/Red (WR). If the transponder says OK the IM ECU sends 12V down pin 7 on the Red/White (RW) to the starter relay.
So linking these two out at the IM should allow the starter to crank. This will prove the relay in the immobiliser is working or not.

Thanks, i'll give it a try, i've copied and pasted the above comments into the other thread to share the info.

Graybo9 said:

Thanks, i'll give it a try, i've copied and pasted the above comments into the other thread to share the info.

Click to expand...

I answered there too
Linking the W/R and R/W together at the immobiliser plug should allow the starter to crank. This will prove the relay in the immobiliser is working or not. If it proves the relay.Then someone with a reasonable knowledge of electronics could change the relay in the immobiliser.