Freelander Air Con

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When I switch on the air con in the freelander, it makes no difference to the tempeture. The fan works fine on all speeds .Can anyone offer some advice on the problem.
Many Thanks.:mad:
 
if your air con is definatly on( the button is illuminated etc.), unless someone else has any ideas id say it needs re-gassin, you see loadsa place around that do air-con leak checks and re-gassin etc, infact i think you can actually try doin it yourself now with a gas re-fill cartridge from halfrauds
 
if your air con is definatly on( the button is illuminated etc.), unless someone else has any ideas id say it needs re-gassin, you see loadsa place around that do air-con leak checks and re-gassin etc, infact i think you can actually try doin it yourself now with a gas re-fill cartridge from halfrauds

Seconded: You might also take a quick look at the compressor drive belt, it may have snapped and fallen off during the winter months.
 
To start the aircon the outside airinlet should be blocked (the recirculation button ON) and make sure the output airflow is directed through the dashboard vents in front of you, otherwise I'm afraid there is little difference in temperature you can notice. I've been running my car for some 6 years with the airflow going half through the vents and the other half down to the feet and the result was zip. Two years back my wife was fiddling with the settings and purely by "accident" she selected all through the vents and hey, we got cold air coming in.......:D:D:D:D (same goes for the heating in winter of course, only luke air coming in on the divided position but when only coming through the front vents it's miracle.):rolleyes:
At least on my MY01 Td4 it works like this. (My neighbour having a Td4 Sport my 05 does the same now and he agreed it's much better than before when he was also working on split position etc...). Good luck.
 
To start the aircon the outside airinlet should be blocked (the recirculation button ON) and make sure the output airflow is directed through the dashboard vents in front of you, otherwise I'm afraid there is little difference in temperature you can notice. I've been running my car for some 6 years with the airflow going half through the vents and the other half down to the feet and the result was zip. Two years back my wife was fiddling with the settings and purely by "accident" she selected all through the vents and hey, we got cold air coming in.......:D:D:D:D (same goes for the heating in winter of course, only luke air coming in on the divided position but when only coming through the front vents it's miracle.):rolleyes:
At least on my MY01 Td4 it works like this. (My neighbour having a Td4 Sport my 05 does the same now and he agreed it's much better than before when he was also working on split position etc...). Good luck.

Interesting Willo this is just what my wife discovered - what would we do without them? (Maybe afford a Porsche?)
 
Dont !!! use the DIY regassing, ! , My brother works for a company that overhauls A/C and he tell me it not a good idea and it can cause a few problems
 
may be it was dont do diy re-gassing.
i tried it and lost more pressure than I gained. The cans dont go anywhere near as high pressure as you need for a freeby.

am I right in thinking about 120psi is about the middle of the range for AC pressure?
 
I have used DIY re-gassing a couple of times. It is about 80PSI on the low pressure side when running. The secret is to warm the can in a jug of water to increase the pressure. It sometimes gets a bit slow as you get down the can but o.k. for me. Never have found the leak. I top it up once a year and it lasts about 11 months.
 
I have used DIY re-gassing a couple of times. It is about 80PSI on the low pressure side when running. The secret is to warm the can in a jug of water to increase the pressure. It sometimes gets a bit slow as you get down the can but o.k. for me. Never have found the leak. I top it up once a year and it lasts about 11 months.

And if the missing 12th month is December or January certainly no problem ???:D:D:D:D
 
Hi There,
Went back to Halfords today,had the air con checked again only to find that the gas I had put in last week was depleted.Must have a leak in the air con system some where. Anyone out there got any sugestions about stopping the leak, or even finding where it is in the first place?
Many Thanks.
 
Hi There,
Went back to Halfords today,had the air con checked again only to find that the gas I had put in last week was depleted.Must have a leak in the air con system some where. Anyone out there got any sugestions about stopping the leak, or even finding where it is in the first place?
Many Thanks.

Are leaks in aircon systems not checked with a blue light ?? Seem to have heard that when I got my expose on the FL back in january 2001 when I got mine delivered.
 
Reviving an old thread instead of starting a new one.

The Air con gas kits from Halfords are now offered with a free air con cleaner and a there is a £10 returnable deposit on the can. Result! £39 for the kit then a tenner back when you return it, bargain.

Also they have UV leak detector kits and sealant 'gas' cartridges.
 
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My air con light works and it's full of gas but still no cold air ? If I power the compressor direct it works too .... All fuses are good ... Is the cooling fan unit on the slam panel a possible cause of air con not working ?
Rob
 
I have a few points I would like to make here..

With regard to the refill kits from Halfords, I would not recommend them. For £50 you can go to Kwik Fit and they will (should) do the job properly which means using the correct test gear. Firstly they create a vacuum in the system which removes all old gas, oil, and moisture. They leave the vacuum for 20 mins to check the integrity of the system - this will identify any leaks if air gets in. If that is good they then fill the system with the correct gas and lubricating oil, and then test it. For this they charge £50, if they can't fix it they don't charge. It took my 300 TDI Discovery in and they vacuumed it, filled it, when they went to test it and after 5 mins running the condenser ruptured (violently) and they had to vacate the workshop for 10 mins. They didn't charge me as they didn't fix it. If you buy the kit from Halfords and you have a leak - you've blown £40. KF recharged my TD4 a few weeks back with no issues, still works well.

Also others have said the air-recirculation button needs to be on - this is not the case with my '02 TD4 - the a/c works without it being pressed. Note also that the a/c system will be switched on automatically when the system is in demist (i.e. all air to windscreen) and blower on 4. The a/c will not operate if the blower is not switched on.

There is a pressure switch in the system which will prevent the compressor clutch engaging if there is in-sufficient gas pressure in the system. The compressor is quite hard to see but you should check the clutch is engaging and the compressor turning when the a/c is on. If it is, then feel the a/c pipes going up the RH side of the engine bay, one should be very cool. If not, and you are certain that you have enough gas, as MHM suggested compressor is most likely not compressing. Again this is something that Kwik Fit can diagnose as their test gear will measure the high and low side pressures when the system is operating - if they don't fix it you won't be charged (I don't think).

With the outside air between 15-20 degrees, I generally see a 10 degree drop in temp at the dash vents with the a/c on.

BTW I am no big fan of Kwik Fit but their approach to a/c servicing is helpful. Others will have similar offers.
 
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Air-con?!?!?!

I just remove my roof, sunroofs and open the windows...... Doesn't need re gassing and doesn't increase fuel consumption!

Lol
 
My air con light works and it's full of gas but still no cold air ? If I power the compressor direct it works too .... All fuses are good ... Is the cooling fan unit on the slam panel a possible cause of air con not working ?
Rob
 
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