Freelander 2 - illusive fault need help!

Freelander 2 - Fault - Need help

Freelander 2 2013 190bhp AUTO 2.2td4 Dynamic

So here’s the fault:

After I’ve been stuck in a little bit of traffic it goes into what seems like some form of limp mode, but doesn’t come up with anything on the dash.

It revs really high but physically moves very slow. So for example in normal conditions in 2nd it will do 30-40mph, when error hits it will only reach 10-20mph and revs extremely high before changing gear. (Auto box) Manually changing gears doesn’t help it reacts the same.

My Delphi reader shows code P007A. And the code can be wiped and re-appears when the issue arises again.

-Regular serviced
-MAF, MAP & BOOST MAP sensors all changed.
-Thermostat/coolant sensor & coolant changed
-Intercooler to throttle body pipes changed to silicone.


Next looking at:

-Changing gear box fluid
-Clean/replace EGR valve
-Injector cleaner

It seems to very much be a gear box issue but I’m not getting any fault codes come from the gear box on the Delphi I’m using. The fault code I am getting relates to a sensor issue therefore the reason for the above changes.

I’ve litrally sifted through ever possible website or thread and can’t seem to find anyone with a similar issue. Therefor the reason I think it’s tome for someone with the right tool to try reading the car.

Anybody with previous expiriance with a similar fault or potential solutions would be a great help.

Anyone local to doncaster with Land Rover specific diagnostics kit would be a huge help!

Thanks

Gareth

There was one on here a few weeks ago doing the same thing, @td4van might know more

Thanks Freelance. I think that may have been a thread I did a few weeks ago. Hopefully not though.

What's the mileage? Eggsperienced SD4 owners like to change the auto oil every 50k miles.

P007a is a sensor error

https://www.obd-codes.com/p007a

Hi Hippo,

Yes that’s the link I used to see the P007A error meaning which pointed me to the boost map sensor on the intercooler pre-turbo. Changed twice and still not resolved.

Can anything else cause this error code?

The cars done 100k and auto box definitely needs oil changed as there’s no record of previous owner having it done even though it’s been fully serviced by Land Rover. But can the oil really cause this problem?

Can you read the value from the sensor? Does it have a broken or trapped wire shorting to the bodywork (0 volt or also referred to as earth)

That particular sensor is only used as air intake temperature sensor. The boost capabilities of the sensor arnt used on this Freelander. It measures at this sensor as well as the MAF and I’m getting a normal temperature reading as per photo from Delphi. I also checked the wires with a volt meter and everything is as it should be.

Could I be pinning this fault code on the wrong sensor?

GarethFreelander said:

Could I be pinning this fault code on the wrong sensor?

Click to expand...

It's possible.

When a temp sensor fails it's not always the sensor incorrectly reading temp which is the problem. The wire to/from it may be open circuit, caught on metal work and therefore shorting the signal to earth (0 volts), or part of a bigger problem.

On modern cars they can give codes which reference the fault being intermittent, permanent, short to earth etc.

If you clear the code and it comes back then the fault is still present.

If yer put it in D for drive,
then push the gear lever left to S sport auto,
then pull back the lever to manual shift 1,
then start driving,
then keep pushing the lever forward when it's time to change up a gear...

does it work ok then?

In general i would try to avoid using all the power it has and pushing it to such extremes as 30+ in second gear. It will do it but it's not ideal.

Right so further update, that code was related to the MAF sensor not working properly. The car faulted again yet the code didn’t come up when MAF changed. So the whole code issue is now solved. The problem still remains with the high revs slow movement. The speeds I gave were just complete off the top of my head figures don’t worry I don’t drive it that hard.

In regards to wiring when using a volt meter and a diagram of the sensor I tested for ground & resistance both seemed perfect to the boost MAP.

The gear selection your asking me to try. Is this something you want me to try when it faults to see if it rectifies the car? Also mine doesn’t has a S sport mode? P D N R & manual up/down.

Would you edge towards this been a gear box or a egr fault? It never happens on start up of the car only when the car has been running a while and is up to temp.

I can provide these readings in the picture below and in flight mode will this confirm a fault or non-faulty EGR. (These results are from cold start engine idling)

Gear shift

Yer gear selector does have an S sport mode. Watch the dash display and move the lever to D. Dash will display D. Now move the lever to the left (while still in D) and it will enter sport mode. It will put an S on the dash.

Sport mode holds it in gear longer and the revs go a bit higher for betterer response to requests for acceleration. Also if yer driving along in D, and yer put it into S, say at 50mph, it will drop one gear and rev higher to compensate, creating a setup where it's ready to apply quicker than normal acceleration as requested, but stay at the same speed ready to do so. Put back to D and it will change to normal setting. At 50 it would then change back up a gear.

We need to work out if the fault is engine low power related or auto gearbox. I would like yer to do the manual shift test int post above when the fault occurrs. It may or may not solve the problem. If it does one or the other then this helps us diagnose.

It would be ideal if yer could get the codes read from the auto's computer. Read, clear, read to see what's still there, go for drive then read, then read again after the fault has happened.

Does it say anything on the dash when the fault occurs

In general... autos which rev up and slip either have sticking/failed solenoids or burnt clutch packs. The colour/smell of the oil will tell you if it's burnt and probably the clutches burnt. Having said that... the gear shift is related to what the engine is doing. If the engine is suddenly low on power then it will still cause problems.

It may just be a sensor causing problems. Yer autos computer has a number of error codes available and may be clever enough to give yer a precise fault discription via one or more error codes. Getting the codes read is key to finding out what it knows about the fault.

If it were mine and due for an oil change then i would also do that. Yer auto is very fussy on oil used. Also follow the correct method at the right temperature and be careful not to burn yerself.

Really appropriate this help hippo. So wow I never new it had sport mode! I’ll give all this ago you suggest and feedback to you ASAP. I’ll go out for a drive when later and try get it to fault.

Right Hippo, so I’ve left it running on drive for ten mins after other half just got back from work to try cause the fault to occur. It did exactly that, I jumped on motorway put it in sport and back on drive as stated and it does appear to clear the issue back to normal gear changes. I tried to video it hopefully cut it down short enough to send you of the dash and the cars reaction. No fault codes before and no fault codes after.

Ignore that. The fault remains sport mode didn’t resolve it.

Right I’ve got a video but it won’t let me send it via landyzone. The video shows stopped at lights, handbrake on, half throttle to pull away. You can see the camera shake as i accelerate and parking brake disengages. Then a delay of the revs & speed. Which is quite a dangerous delay if pulling out of a junction, not just a bit of lag. Followed by a sudden jump in revs which rev high before changing gear. This is after trying the sport mode method. It’s also in normal driving conditions.

We were recently on holiday towing a caravan. The fault hit and whilst towing with air con ON. The car wouldn’t move, air con OFF and the car creeped for a few seconds low revs then sudden revs shot up car moved.

Try putting the video on you tube

I know it’s not brilliant quality will try do another