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Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 diesel starting on 3 cylinders, now running properly, after cylinder head change.

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Nodge68, Jul 15, 2020.

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  1. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    YouTube linky.
     
  2. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Glad to hear it's going a bit better John. I'm sure you'll get it going 100% soon. :)
     
  3. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Ali. It's definitely much better, just not quite perfect, yet.
     
  4. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    If it's high on drugs then it will misfire a bit!!!
     
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  5. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Lol, well spotted. Make you wonder what auto-correct is thinking though. :confused:
     
  6. Andy Warren

    Andy Warren Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Well done, at least it's running on all 4 from cold & has got it's mojo back:), I always did wonder about the old head when I saw how damaged it was. Having to lap valves in for that amount of time as you know, will alter the width of the valve sealing area which only needs to be about 1-1.5mm (unless you had the other angles re- cut ? Once you get that slight hesitation sorted you'll still have a 'cheap' fully sorted FL2.
    I keep thinking about getting a FL2 & part company with the FL1 & D2, (when I get round to finishing the suspension/brakes/d. shaft oil seal on the FL1) I might start looking, all the best.
     
  7. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    It is definitely better when cold.
     
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  8. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi John.
    I have just watched the video thanks for posting it up, great to hear it fired up ok, engine seems to be rocking a little though is that due to a weak or torn lower engine mount/tie bar, i think you mentioned it in another post somewhere, once you have fine tuned the car it will run great i have no doubts, once again thank you for sharing your knowledge on here.
     
  9. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Comparatively cheap, although if my time was factored in, it's not such a bargain.
    It's taken about 20 hours to do the head change this time, and that's on top of the 30 hours for the previous engine repair, excluding the rear diff rebuild.
    However now it's driving better, it seems to be worthwhile. :)
     
  10. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks.
    I'm pleased the whole 3 cylinder starting is a thing of the past, and I believed was the reason the engine was worked on before I got it.
    I'm sure there's an exhaust valve (cylinder No 3) not seating when cold on the old head. This was on top of the issues caused by the nut!!


    Yes, the lower engine bush is allowing the engine to rock quite a lot. The camera was clamped to the bonnet safety latch too, which wouldn't have helped.
     
  11. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    John 50 hours or more in total lets say at a minimum of £40 an hour and you are looking at £2000 plus, then you have to hope the garage have done the job right, in your case you know it's been done right ;) that can be the reason why some people would have sold the car on or just write it off cost parts and labour.

    Yes the camera fixed to the car would make the engine seem to rock more than it should :D
     
  12. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Pictures of the strip down, and rebuild with a low mileage (under 9k miles) cylinder head.

    Here are many pictures, which I'll add descriptions as time allows.
    The engine before work begins
    20211103_111242.jpg
    Injectors out, as an assembly with the rail.
    20211103_115250.jpg
    Inlet manifold off.
    20211103_143150.jpg
    Crankcase vent cover off. 20211104_143646.jpg
    Structural top cover removed.
    20211104_144839.jpg
    Timing chain with tensioner in the running position.
    20211104_144845.jpg
    Timing chain from the drive belt end.
    20211104_144855.jpg
    Cams removed as an assembly
    20211105_102914.jpg
    Head bolts visible when cams are removed.
    20211105_102954.jpg
    EGR assembly removed.
    20211105_104227.jpg The exhaust manifold heat shield comes off next.
    20211105_104253.jpg Heat shield off.
    20211105_104633.jpg Exhaust manifold is next.
    20211105_104643.jpg Head bolts needed some extra leverage to shift.
    20211105_110653.jpg Head off. Pistons look ok. The injector spray pattern is clearly visible on the piston crowns.
    20211105_112050.jpg
    The cross hatching I did is still clearly visible, even after 2500 miles.
    20211105_112140.jpg looks like there's minimal blowby though. There are a couple of stuff lines on the bore, the origin is unknown.
    20211105_112057.jpg Old head off, along with the gasket.
    20211105_112220.jpg There is definitely soot in the lower port of cylinder No 2 (second from the right), suggesting this valve was leaking.
    20211105_121757.jpg New head ready for cleaning. Note the later cams are steel, as opposed to the earlier cast cams.
    20211105_122237.jpg Undoing the crank pulley bolt, which needed some extra leverage.
    20211104_122017.jpg Wear witness marks on the timing belt cover.
    20211104_122025.jpg Replacement head is nice and clean.
    20211105_114759.jpg 20211105_114815.jpg
    20211105_114830.jpg
    20211105_114902.jpg Later exhaust manifold bolts, with E torx ends to aid fitment.
    20211105_120943.jpg Block deck cleaned for HG, and new thermostat seal in place.
    20211105_124711.jpg HG in position.
    20211105_124918.jpg Head cleaned ready for fitting.
    20211105_131618.jpg New head in position and torqued down, and thermostat bolted on.
    20211105_161010.jpg Cams installed.
    20211106_114933.jpg Timing set correctly.
    20211106_114943.jpg Structural top cover cleaned ready for fitting.
    20211106_115108.jpg Cleaned seal surface, with correct sealant ready.
    20211106_120456.jpg Head coated with the sealer. I used plenty this time. Last time I used much less, and it leaked a bit.
    20211106_123029.jpg Structural top cover bolted down. Note extra sealer around the bolts, which the new head had evidence of.
    20211106_130113.jpg Crankcase vent top cover in place.
    20211106_133656.jpg
    Timing belt installed and tensioned.
    20211106_105343.jpg
    New glow plug, to replace the single failed one.
    20211106_154509.jpg
    Lower belt pulley. Note the elongated key slot, so timing can be set spot on.
    20211106_155131.jpg CAS reluctor ring in place. Note the tight fitting key slot.
    20211106_155400.jpg Special single use only bolt.
    20211106_155423.jpg Damper pulley in place. No bolt fitted yet.
    20211106_155241.jpg Engine almost ready for a test start. Just the fuel filter to install, and the EGR transfer pipe to install.
    20211107_131033.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2021
  13. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member Full Member

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    You're a brave man John, changing a HG on a K series was daunting enough for me. :p

    Well done. :)
     
  14. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Brave or stupid maybe.
    I like the K series, it's an easy engine to work on.
     
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  15. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I don't believe the starting on 3 cylinders was down to the head damage.
    The cylinder that wasn't firing when cold was No3. The cylinder that was damaged was No2, so it wasn't that.
    I tested all cylinder power contributions by disconnecting the injector wires in sequence (I know it's a no no), but the only cylinder that made no difference when disconnected was No3. You could also hear that one cylinder was leaking straight into the exhaust, if you listened to the tail pipe.
    I believe No3 has a sticking exhaust valve, which didn't start sealing correctly until it had warmed up sufficiently, which would account for the 3 cylinder start, no power contribution, and the rhythmic hiss from the tail pipe.

    No2 was definitely down on compression, as it was clear that at least one inlet valve wasn't holding tight on the firing stroke, hence the new layer of soot in the lower intake port. However I believe the other valves were sealing acceptably, so the engine was able to run, actually not badly considering the damage to the head.
    I am however glad that I've now got a good engine, which hopefully will give many more years service, at least until I can justify buying an EV, which by the looks of fuel prices, won't be long. :eek:
     
  16. Andy Warren

    Andy Warren Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Well it sounds ok to me & no different from the neighbours FL2 on start up. I know what you mean about labour time spent, if I add up the hours I've spent on my FL1 & D2, (to be fair the FL has been great really but sorting all the D2 problems has been costly & very time consuming), it would run into the beyond economical repair category !
    but I find all is forgotten when you drive them with that feel of satisfaction of a job well done. As for the aches & pains you mentioned being in my late 50's crawling over,in & under vehicles on a drive is no fun so you have my sympathy;).
    Anyway lets hope bar a little tinkering & routine servicing, it gives back what you've put into it ! All the best.
     
  17. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Once again thank you John for all the photos and explanations with them, little question what is or was the cable tie for in the photo below.
    [​IMG]1

    Also noted the QH disc box are those front discs from QH and if so how do you rate them please.
     
  18. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    That cable tie is to hold the cam chain tensioner shoe in the retracted position.
    There's supposed to be a plastic resettable holder (visible in one of the strip down pictures), but it seemed to be missing, so the zip tie was just holding it retracted so I could fit the cams.
    QH are as good as any really. I only used QH, because that's what Advanced Factors supplied in the kit.
     
  19. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Ok, here's a 1 week update.
    Starting up from cold is still on 4 cylinders. However there is a slight tremble the moment it starts, which I'm putting down to an injector issue.
    The initial zero smoke on starting has now developed into some smoking for a couple of seconds, but instead of the previous plumes of blue smoke, this smoke is white/grey in colour, which again I'm attributing to an injector leaking down over a few hours.

    There is still a misfire under load above 2200 RPM, which again I'm putting down to an injector, so the plan is to try to identify the faulty injector by substitution, as I have a spare.

    I've also noticed that the burning oil smell (there was an oil drip onto the exhaust) is still there, which suggests that there is still an oil leak onto the exhaust.
    I think this could be from the crankcase vent pipe, where it joins the vent cover to the intake pipe.
    The connection is a push type connector, which is sealed by an O ring, which I expect has worn and allowing oil sticking to the inside of the pipe to leak out, and drip onto the exhaust which is directly below.
    I'm thinking of installing an oil catch tank to keep much of this oil out of the air intake, thus reducing the amount of oil being burned by the engine.
     
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