Freelander 1.8 water pump
- Thread starter Galwayguy
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storm99
Spreading Joy & Harmony
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Jesus H Christ...if its not then you're in deep poo..it'll be obvious, temp will shoot up...if in doubt, there is no doubt. Change it.
None of the hoses will get hot, engine will overheat but the temp gauge will not necessarily move.(It depends where the sensor is). There will be no way for the water to move around the system. If there is doubt I wouldn`t use the car until a new one is fitted
You will see from another thread that I am trying to determine why my bottom hose is staying cold. I thought that it might be useful for others if there is a method for testing whether the water pump is pumping correctly. As well as impellers falling off I have heard of cases where the impeller gets loose & stops rotating intermittently.
Wouldn't the top hose heat up anyway just by convection. I have a rad full of water, no leaks, a working stat, the system is thoroughly bled but the bottom hose is stone cold.
I have seen a few people post the same symptoms & I have never seen an answer.
If all other hoses are hot and gauge is working then my first steps would be either air lock (has any work been done lately or any leaks?), if all else is hot I would think the pump is moving the water.
Next step for me would be headgasket. Are the hoses getting pressurised quickly?
Next step for me would be headgasket. Are the hoses getting pressurised quickly?
Only the top hose. It's crazy that the two pipes going in the top of the stat are hot & the one at the bottom (bottom rad hose) is stone cold. Clearly the water is not flowing through the rad. Today I disconnected the rad hoses & flushed though the block & rad with a hose. I then refilled the system following the bleed procedure. I even tried disconnecting the bottom coolant bottle pipe & I connected the hose to it to check the flow through the entire system.
If air is trapped then I have no idea where. Initial tests with a sniffer don't indicate exhaust gasses in the coolant. Surely it would need to be a big air lock to prevent water from flowing, aided by gravity, through the rad.
I just assumed, never a good idea, that there was an easy way to check that the pump is pumping. I have read elsewhere to check for a flow from the rad overflow into the bottle but nothing to confirm if this is a check for the pump. I wouldn't of thought that you would need much pump output to get a flow into the bottle.
It will idle all day without overheating or the fan coming on providing the bottle cap is off. Does this suggest that the pump output is OK ?
