freelander 1.8 petrol automatic timing tensioner query

hi all

new to the landrover scene, just purchased a lovely black freelander, my query is, whilst giving it a little check over i noticed the cam belt seemed very loose so of i went to halfords to buy the good old haynes manual to find out how to retension it (it has the automatic tensioner), i have done as the book says, and all seemed good so took it for a drive, when i got back the belt was loose again and the little pointer was about quarter of a turn clockwise past the index spring again, the bolt was still tight and i could not move the teardrop shaped tensioning arm, how has this happened? do i need to replace the tensioner? any info would be helpful.

also as a side note, is it normal for the car to almost come to a stop as if the brakes are being applied when making tight manouvers at low speed, it almost feels like the wheels are going to lock up

many thanks

Gazbeemer

Do you know when the belt was last changed?

Sounds like time for a new belt and tensioner at the same time. It's likely the belt is stretching a little bit if the tensioner hasn't moved.

Get it checked ASAP before the belt pings and you're looking at new valves.

As for the turning in tight spaces, it can feel tight normally especially if you're used to a BMW but if it comes to an abrupt stop, there maybe something wrong with your IRD/VCU. Do a search on here for VCU test to determine whether something is wrong.

Hi,
Cheers for the fast reply, cam belt was changed in feb so should be finer, I followed the haynes manual to the word and it seemed fine until I drove it, would it be the tensioner at fault? If so is it ok to change just the tensioner and can I do it with the belt still in place,

I did read that it is normal to experience a bit of rolling resistance when moving slow on full lock but this seems a bit extreme, its as if you are braking whilst turning

Thanks for the reply
Gazbeemer

I suppose it is possible the spring in the tensioner has lost it's 'spring'. It would be easy enough to do the tensioner without removing the whole cambelt, but i'd use a locking tool to keep the cams in the right place while you're doing it.

The auto tensioner is on a cam of its own, a bit of movement is normal IMHO, if you over tension, it just swings loose again........until reset, this prevents over tensioning.

when the cams are at their timing marks (Ex-In) (Ex-In) the cams are at their losest resting potential, as the crank rotates more tension is on the cams, due to valve springs, which is tranferred to tension in the belt.

Rotate the crank by hand (22mm socket) the arm should move slightly, I'd say its normal.

ok, changed the tensioner today and so far seems to be a bit better but time will tell as i didnt have time to take it for a run, can anyone tell me roughly how much slack i should have on the belt on its longest run ie from the crank to the forward camshaft,

cheers