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Freelander 1 Freelander 1 1.8 loosing power

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by arnopretorius, Nov 13, 2019.

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  1. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Hi guys..

    Quick thing..
    I got these plugs from the parts store last week.. NGK BKR6E-11
    I see the plug you guys recommend is a NGK PFR6N-11

    They both have a temp rating of 6 and a gap size of 1.1

    Whats the difference then?
     
  2. htr

    htr Well-Known Member

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    NGK PFR6N-11 have a platinum core & electrode and should last 90,000miles. NGK BKR6E-11have a nickle core ... should last 30,000 miles
     
  3. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Needs re-gapping to 0.9-1.0mm :)
     
  4. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Hi Htr..

    Except for the millage difference..

    Does the platinum burn hotter than the nickle core?
     
  5. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Oh yeah..

    Just an update regarding the inlet manifauld.

    Instead of just replacing it I took gasket maker and sealed all around the seems..

    Will test when it is fully cured and update
     
  6. htr

    htr Well-Known Member

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    The NGK site lists them as the same temp' range, '6'. The platinum have a smaller centre electrode 'fine wire' according to NGK and the Nickel core is larger with a V cut to enhance spark - looks like both are gapped to 1.1mm
     
  7. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    I've regapped them to 0.9...

    Will test later with the sealing around the inlet seems... If it works then I can get a replacement inlet manifauld
     
  8. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Quick question...

    Could this misfiring issue be cause by a faulty connection on the harness where the harness from the ecu and the engine connects? Like a dry connection
     
  9. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Quite possibly? Would likely register as a dropped signal I suspect.
     
  10. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Hi Rob..

    Yeah.. I'm now trying everything to sort my car..

    What makes it strange is that it is intermittent.. It comes and goes and that makes it hard to diagnose..
     
  11. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Totally agree: Intermittent faults are the absolute worst!
     
  12. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member

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    I said at the start of this thread it sounded like a bad connection somewhere and the engine harness would be the first place to look.
    It might be worth spending some time pushing and pulling everything in sight while the engine is running to see if you can provoke it.
     
  13. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I've got a similar random issue with my auto box, which I'm convinced is a bad connection somewhere. Intermittent faults are the worst to find. :mad:
     
  14. Ross Tait

    Ross Tait Member

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    Lol mine did that for ages and drove me feckin nuts, turned out to be the lambda sensor.

    Try unplugging the pre cat lambda and drive it around for at least half an hour. If it’s all fine it’s the lambda sensor.

    Mine only did it once it was warmed up. And the lambda appeared to work fine on live data as it switched away fine.

    Rossco
     
  15. Ross Tait

    Ross Tait Member

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    Oh and if that doesn’t solve it I know there is a common wiring harness issue under the throttle body. Can’t remember what the wires went to though.
     
  16. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    So looking at this 1.8 misfire now. Similar to above. Have cleaned and gaped plus, checked leads and connections and cleared faults. Was showing cyl 3 and 4 misfire and misfire low fuel. Now just brings up a random cyl misfire. Car idles well, revs well, drives fine up to about 30mph then hiccoughs and flashes eml. Reduce speed and all is well. Meet an incline and power is down badly.

    Will try to read fuel pressure. Not sure if i930 will read 1.8k?
    I'm thinking fuel pump /filter? Any other ideas please?

    Certainly feels 'held back' at speed or on hills. Everything else seems OK.

    Will subs a spare in tank pump and filter unit next I think.
     
  17. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    You need to read it with a mechanical gauge on the fuel rail.
    The ECU doesn't monitor the 1.8 fuel pressure, as it's not needed due to exhaust gas monitoring. The fuel pressure needs to exceed a minimum 3.5 bar at full power output.

    Try the fuel filter first. It's known to clog up, and reduce fuel pressure as a result.
     
  18. Ross Tait

    Ross Tait Member

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    Yeah the pumps and the o rings inside them that seal the filter can be an issue. I had to replace mine at one point.

    Do you know if the fuel filter has ever been done?

    Rossco
     
  19. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Sorted. Rob gets the ice cream this week! Having remade all the electrical connections and the problem only being on hills, I changed the fuel pump!! No improvement and a repeated cyl 4 misfire code. Changed 1 and 4 coil pack and bingo.
    What did I learn, a face-lift fuel pump makes a pre face-lift fuel gauge work in reverse and getting the fuel pump ring on is difficult. Made worse by the fact that it didn't need doing!!
    Thanks for all the input everyone.
     
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  20. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Glad its sorted Andy - I had to replace both coil packs on mine for intermittent misfires within 6 months of each other. It's run as sweet as a nut ever since. The spark will break down under heavy load, so hence the misfire on acceleration. On mine, it was worse on acceleration from low speed in a high gear.
     
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