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Freelander 1 Freelander 1 1.8 loosing power

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by arnopretorius, Nov 13, 2019.

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  1. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Good day Everyone
    I hope everyone is doing well.

    I have an FL 1 1.8 and I've recently re-done the motor. The issue I have and this started before the rebuild is that while driving the car will lose power and sounds like it is lumpy and misfiring and then all of a sudden it is okay again and then not long it happens again.

    I started looking into it before the rebuild and then it was okay for some time but now it is starting again.
    The engine light flashes when this happens. Any advice will be appreciated.

    This is what I've done so far:

    replaced coils
    replaced plugs
    fitted new 3.5psi fuel pump with external filter
    tested injectors and all is good.

    I have to add that the previous owner fitted a performance exhaust and removed the cat so the rear oxy sensor is directly on the system. could this possibly cause this type of issue?

    Regards
     
  2. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    What age is it? I presume a post 2001, as you have replaced coils in the plural. Which is annoying, because I was thinking that this could be a coil problem as it has an electrical flavour to it.

    Could there be an intermittent fuel delivery problem? You've looked at the problem already I can see...

    If you have a post cat O2 lambda sensor, then it is post 2001. If there is no cat, then you may be getting fault codes logged by the ECU - which as it is emissions related, will light the engine malfunction indicator light. I don't think it'll cause reduced power though?

    Have you got a decent OBD2/ EOBD reader? They're ten-a-penny on the bay of fleas. Would be helpful to know what faults are being logged by the engine ECU.
     
  3. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    The nominal fuel pressure needs to be around 60 Psi. I'd doubt it would run at 3.5 Psi.
     
  4. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member

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    It sounds like it could be a dodgy connection somewhere. Is it a big job to swap the engine harness? K series Freelanders are 10 a penny in the scrappies so it should be easy to get one.
     
  5. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Hi Nodge

    Apologies...it is a 3.5 bar pump that is equal to 50psi.

    @ Rob.. all the codes I get is related to "Fuel trim" errors.

    What frustrates me the most is it comes and goes and when it is stuttering it smells like the system is flooding with petrol.
     
  6. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Can you list the recorded errors?
     
  7. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Hi Rob...

    Will record them and post
     
  8. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Hi Rob..

    Here's the codes
    P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire detected
    P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected
    P0300 multiple cylinder misfire detected
    P0313 Misfire detected low fuel level

    To me it seems like there is something on the fuel line / system that's not happy...

    Do you maybe know where I can get a diagram for the fuel lines?
     
  9. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Can you get live data on your scanner?

    the misfire reports are what you might expect. Low fuel level is curious - is the fuel filter flowing okay?
     
  10. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    My scanner is basic...

    I've installed an in line fuel filter underneath the car like the E36 BMW has...

    This issue started before that... My next step is to remove the fuel line from the fuel rail and then test the fuel flow... I'm suspecting it mighr be a flow issue and that is also why I'm trying to get a fuel line diagram.
     
  11. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Cylinders 2 and 3 are on the same coil, so it's worth swapping that out.

    I'd also check the fuel pressure. The ECU calculates fuel throughput, based on a 3.5 bar rail pressure. So that's worth checking.
     
  12. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Have you left the fuel pump and filter in the tank pump assembly?
     
  13. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    The fuel line is a single line from the tank pump to the fuel rail. There's nothing to go wrong, unless the in tank pump assembly still has its filter and pump installed.
     
  14. gaza gas

    gaza gas Well-Known Member

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    does it tick over, is it smooth if you rev it up when stationery.
     
  15. Juzza6720

    Juzza6720 Member

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    I had a random misfire on my old 1.8 once, turned out to be one of the short HT leads from the coil pack to the plug. I think I realised what it was as had it running in the dark and could see it arcing to the block. Changed that and it was fine from then on. I don't remember it giving any fault codes though...
     
  16. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Hi Juzza..

    I replaced both coils and leads and still the same...

    @Nodge... I removed the old pump and filter and modified a new pump in the housing and then installed an in line filter.. I will also check wiring to coil on piston 3..
     
  17. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Can someone tell me what the device is on the fuel rail and can this cause issues?
     

    Attached Files:

  18. tonytherunner

    tonytherunner Active Member

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    The accumulator acts as a damper to damp pulses
    from the pump and ensure that the fuel pressure in the rail and to the injectors is constant. The accumulator is
    connected by a pipe to the inlet manifold from which it receives a vacuum to aid the damping process.
     
  19. arnopretorius

    arnopretorius Member

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    Hi Tony

    Thank you..

    Question is could this cause a problem with pressure and cause the car to drive lumpy and stutery?

    Its seems to get better if I Rev it up but can't drive like that...
     
  20. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I've never come across a faulty accumulator, so couldn't guess as to any symptoms if it should fail. I would think it would leak though, as the fuel is at 3.5 bar on one side of the diaphragm, and manifold pressure on the other.

    What's with the red goop all round the intake manifold? Presumably it's to seal a leak. Are you 100% sure it's not leaking?
     
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