flex plate

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niceguyz

niceguyz

New Member
Posts
171
Location
south east asia
hi mates..Merry Christmas and Happy New Year..hope all having fun at the best season of the year..well for me ..had a mishap while travelling back on the eve of xmas..my disco stopped on the middle of highway...no drive..after 5 hours towed back 2 town n found of the flexplate was broken terriblly...so now still in garage...trying 2 get back for the new year if can be done...

So if possible ,if anybody have some diagrams or pics of the flex plate(300tdi auto) please post it here or pm me.That would be really helpful because me and these guys here dont know how exactly it looks like..
hope i wont disturb or take much of a time of anybody at this time of year..if i do i sincerely apologise...thanks a lot mates..really appreciated...:)
 
Hello, is this helping u or u want something else?

driveplated1.png


Two points are missing from the image:

7. Calculate the difference between the average figure obtained and 12.4 mm
8. Select shims from the range available which equal the final figure obtained

NOTE: Shims are available rising in incrementsof 0.1mm from 0.1mm to 2.1mm in thickness
 
thanks sierra ...thats was really helpful...another thing is why could have the drive plate broken off at the middle(around the 8 nuts)..what are the possible causes mate??:confused:
 
The reason for the failure is definitely METAL FATIGUE.

It has been flexing a little too much for a little too long. The steel work-hardens, and eventually a little crack starts. After that it is only a matter of time till it fails

Basically, if the thing had been assembled as intended, there would be NO FLEX.
Everything would be dead in line, and any little wobbles from vibration would always be within the elastic limits of the flex plate.

The trouble starts when something runs a tiny bit out of line, off centre, or out of balance, meaning the torque converter in almost every case.

It is VITAL that when the gearbox is re-attached to the engine, all the mating surfaces are clean, and all the bolts / studs are used. The mating surfaces of the TC must be perfectly clean too, both sides so it is all dead in line.

It is going to need a new drive plate. Can you get one out there?

CharlesY
 
thanks a lot mate...that was really informative and dead on target i was searching for...yeah i got a second hand plate here ...i will give it go and see how it goes first...thanks much Charlesy..:)
 
niceguyz said:
thanks a lot mate...that was really informative and dead on target i was searching for...yeah i got a second hand plate here ...i will give it go and see how it goes first...thanks much Charlesy..:)
Click to expand...


Check the BUSH in the gearbox that the nose of the torque converter fits into. If that bush is worn the whole TC could wobble about and start flexing the plate more than intended.

The bush can be replaced, and if you do that, also fit a new oil seal.

Remember, you MUST fit the TC to the gearbox FIRST, and then join it all to the engine. This sounds daft, but if you try doing it the other way (bolting the TC the flex plate first) disaster is almost guaranteed, usually terminal damage to the gearbox extension that holds the stator in the TC.

It's quite a big job. Do you have RAVE manual?
If not, you can download it from LandyZone I think.

Take care!

CharlesY
 
oh goshh!!..thanks again mate ...thats why the flex plate broke twice ....i guess the mechanic did the other way that u mention...now my landy still in garage...so i gonna have 2 clear it out to him b4 he do the same way again...n end up breaking the flex the third time...oh man i really hope the gearbox or TC its not screwed up !!...thanks much charlesy:)
 
niceguyz said:
oh goshh!!..thanks again mate ...thats why the flex plate broke twice ....i guess the mechanic did the other way that u mention...now my landy still in garage...so i gonna have 2 clear it out to him b4 he do the same way again...n end up breaking the flex the third time...oh man i really hope the gearbox or TC its not screwed up !!...thanks much charlesy:)
Click to expand...


There is a great risk that the GEARBOX EXTENSION may be damaged - broken off the oil pump of the front end of the gearbox.

When you look at the front end of the gearbox you will see the INPUT SHAFT sticking out of the middle of the OIL SEAL of the main gearbox oil pump.

Fitted around the input shaft is a sort of splined tube. This holds the STATOR inside the TORQUE CONVERTER, and prevents it from turning in some circumstances, as in at lower revs when driving away from rest.

If that splined tube has ANY MOVEMENT WHATEVER or can be turned AT ALL, the casting is broken, and the gearbox is UNSERVICEABLE until the stator support has been replaced. DO NOT ATTEMPT to drive the car like this as the broken ends of the housing will grind to bits and fill the gearbox and the valve-block with iron filings.

YOU must check this personally, because your mechanic seems to be short on experience, no matter how enthusiastic he is trying to be.

CharlesY
 
oh man..ok i will check it up myself...veryy valuable input charlesy..really apprreciated..another thing is say the splined tube shaking ...how 2 replace it ..?? where can i get replacement mate ?tq
 

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niceguyz said:
oh man..ok i will check it up myself...veryy valuable input charlesy..really apprreciated..another thing is say the splined tube shaking ...how 2 replace it ..?? where can i get replacement mate ?tq
Click to expand...


Yes, that is the "splined tube" or Stator Support.
It is a steel casting, and it is part of the gearbox oil pump casing.
It MUST be absolutely solid to the gearbox - rigid.

If it moves AT ALL it is broken.

Spare part would probably be from a scrapper, or ordered from a Automatic Transmission repair shop.

Pray it isn't broken.

CharlesY
 
thanks charlesy ..ive check today ..the ring i showed in my pic (exactly arrowed) isnt shaking but...the end of it with a small hole is kind of shaky...so is my disco doomed or is it ok..according to the mechanic here its normal ...so im worried now mate...?
 
niceguyz said:
thanks charlesy ..ive check today ..the ring i showed in my pic (exactly arrowed) isnt shaking but...the end of it with a small hole is kind of shaky...so is my disco doomed or is it ok..according to the mechanic here its normal ...so im worried now mate...?
Click to expand...


The smaller central splined shaft will waggle a bit, and that is NORMAL.
The plain bit at the tip locates in the centre of the turbine of the torque converter, and that holds it dead in line.

That may be the first bit of good news you have had for a while!

The ring you arrowed must be absolutely SOLID, because it is rigidly fastened to the main casing of the gearbox.

You may have gotten away with it.

CHarlesY
 
oh thank GOD heheh..:) thnks a lot mate ...hope its ok ...but another thing happened ...upon fitting up all the parts together with engine...after start up ..gearbox oil was leaking at the outer gearbox casing that connects to the TC housing ...oh man ..upon open up all over again ..it was the gasket ...oh gosh ..i tot the seal...but im not sure how gearbox oil came out to that place at first place...here are some pics....any idea mates....
 

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niceguyz said:
oh thank GOD heheh..:) thnks a lot mate ...hope its ok ...but another thing happened ...upon fitting up all the parts together with engine...after start up ..gearbox oil was leaking at the outer gearbox casing that connects to the TC housing ...oh man ..upon open up all over again ..it was the gasket ...oh gosh ..i tot the seal...but im not sure how gearbox oil came out to that place at first place...here are some pics....any idea mates....
Click to expand...


In your first picture the oil-seal in the centre, around the splined shaft looks suspect/incorrectly instaled to me.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by niceguyz
oh thank GOD heheh..:) thnks a lot mate ...hope its ok ...but another thing happened ...upon fitting up all the parts together with engine...after start up ..gearbox oil was leaking at the outer gearbox casing that connects to the TC housing ...oh man ..upon open up all over again ..it was the gasket ...oh gosh ..i tot the seal...but im not sure how gearbox oil came out to that place at first place...here are some pics....any idea mates....


In your first picture the oil-seal in the centre, around the splined shaft looks suspect/incorrectly installed to me.

I worry about that oil seal too, but the photo isn't quite clear enough to say if the seal is fitted the wrong way round.

The new gasket should be fine, but DO use a little blue Hylomar sealer on it, and DO make sure the mating faces are clean and de-oiled when you put it back together.

I really worry about the gasket. I have NEVER heard of one of those gaskets failing. They are under no pressure or strain, and would be expected to last the life of the gearbox.

The main oil seal .... WILL 99.99% certain be WRECKED if the torque converter is fitted to the engine flex plate first. There is NO WAY it can be guided into the oil seal without tearing that seal to bits.

That's one problem.
The second problem is the seal may be the wrong way round

The oil seal has an OUT side which is smooth and closed, and an IN side which appears open or hollow and has a metal spring inside it, clearly visible, right round the inside of the seal.

The SMOOTH CLOSED side faces AWAY from the gearbox and towards the engine. The OPEN side with the spring showing faces INWARDS.
It WILL leak LOTS of oil if the seal is damaged or fitted the wrong way round, never mind both.

You MUST fit a NEW oil seal. the right way round, then very carefully feed the nose of the torque converter into it, (using a strip of thin plastic inside the seal is a good trick to protect the seal), and after that the whole gearbox COMPLETE WITH THE TORQUE CONVERTER is CAREFULLY offered-up to the engine, registered on the flex plate, and all bolted up again.

CharlesY
 
thanks a lot for the extensive clarification Charlesy and Big glad..all has been installed back 2gether b4 i could get to this important input...anyway now its running ok..no leaking...yet.. hoping everything is done correctly this time with fingers crossed....
 
niceguyz said:
thanks a lot for the extensive clarification Charlesy and Big glad..all has been installed back 2gether b4 i could get to this important input...anyway now its running ok..no leaking...yet.. hoping everything is done correctly this time with fingers crossed....
Click to expand...


Keep Praying!

All LandRovers depend on PRAYERS!

And on a little help and advice from the old guys who made all the mistakes possible, long, long ago!

CharlesY
 
yeah i guess ur rite mate..:)..lots prayers needed ...i took her for a test drive yesterday...the drive was surprisingly fine at first!...after a 200km nonstop drive within 100-120kmpH guess what happen..??..i came to stop(idling) in front of a motel..and she starts to shake/vibrate horribly..i was terrified..the same thing happen b4 (drive plate failure sign) ..only thing was there were no noise(knocking) like b4. When i put 2 reverse for parking...suddenly she cut out...engine died!!! horrified i tried 2 start back..thank GOD she came 2 live but no shakes or anything ...just nothing ..as per usual...normal!!

i was relieved that time ..but worries still haunted in the back of head n heart ...so later on in the evening i took in for a short joy ride around the coutry side with no fuss...so far ok...

this morning on the way back...another 200km ride...without any major incidents or fuss...but there was only a slight vibration occured when i switch on the A/C....
i hope that is normal...what do u think mate ?...is it job well done or am i just plain lucky ??:)
 
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