FL1 immobiliser bypass

Evening ladies and gentleman, I've got a problem with my lads 1.8 freelander, it's on an 02 plate,
Right, unlocks fine and the red flashing dash light goes out, put key in and turn, all dash lights come on, but that's it, there's nothing, won't turn over, if I short the starter it turns over, it's as if the immobiliser is still on, but flashing dash lights gone out, so on the key there's no power to fuel pump or starter, has anyone come across this? And does anyone have a clue how to fix it?

Thanks in advance

There's been a few of these lately. You can in theory like out the starter immobiliser relay in the immobiliser ECU. I'll look out the recent threads with the potential fix.

Mate your a legend

I can't find the other threads on this. The immobiliser breaks the start wire connection between pin 8 (white/red) and pin 7 (red/white) on the immobiliser ECU. So linking them at the immobiliser harness should get it starting again. The engine ECU will still be immobilised, so the correct key is still needed to start the engine

Thanks for that Nodge, I'll have a look tomorrow morning, see what happens and I'll get back and let you know how it went

As Nodge says, you could give the Starter Relay and permanent earth, the car will be non-standard. You could also try changing the starter relay itself - it may be that which is faulty. In the Technical Section there is a thread showing where to download the Rave docs. Rave will have circuit diagrams and should have a picture of the starter relay showing you where it is. It will also show you the immobiliser and where it is.

I think 1 of the threads Nodge was talking about is this one....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...cking-starter-solenoid-design-problem.303481/

This thread is investigating why the immobiliser appears to drop the earth to the relay - ie the relay is clicking on and then off as soon as the starter starts draining current, then back on again etc. Changing the relay to a button will start the car.

Have you checked the inertia switch on the firewall under the bonnet. It is a black object with a rubber bung on top which is pushed to reset it. If it has tripped (due to a knock etc.) it stops the fuel pump and also starting.

Thanks for all this, Im off out to see if I can sort through what's been suggested

Failing all them brill ideas, it could be the chip in the key. Maybe it has been dropped, broken or a key cut with no chip???

andyfreelandy said:

Failing all them brill ideas, it could be the chip in the key. Maybe it has been dropped, broken or a key cut with no chip???

Click to expand...

If the transponder had failed or was missing. It wouldn't run once it had been started.

Do we know that it runs once started? What does OP mean by 'short out starter'? False feeding starter turns engine perhaps??

However, as far as I know immob does not cut power to fuel pump? or is this a result of the immob code to the ECU or the lack of it?

Need some clarification on fault I think..............

andyfreelandy said:

Do we know that it runs once started? What does OP mean by 'short out starter'? False feeding starter turns engine perhaps??

However, as far as I know immob does not cut power to fuel pump? or is this a result of the immob code to the ECU or the lack of it?

Need some clarification on fault I think..............

Click to expand...

You are quite right. I misread the OP. Rereading it. It appears it's not starting and the fuel pump isn't running. So it could well be that immobiliser hasn't picked up the transponder in the key. This could explain why the pump isn't running. The fuel pump fuse could also have failed. I think this would also stop the starter. The impact switch is also a possibility as was mentioned earlier on.