FL1 fuel consumption

Hi All,

I had a look around and was wondering what I could do to improve the fuel consumption. In summer I changed the air filter (to oem Mahle), the fuel filter has been changed two or so weeks ago, the intercooler hoses have been changed (the large one for a dph and the other one for orig. LR part as I didn't have dph when split and needed). The manifold I cleaned up in summer, but think the egr needs a clean as well as I read this morning on Arctic2's post. Didn't do the blank as I don't want to get in discussion with insurance. Will change the other hoses for dph as well sooner or later. Had like two weeks ago only 23mpg, but also up to 35 when going to Germany. I think the one was only inner-city, but still.

I talked to a guy about a remap some weeks ago, as they had flyers in the garage from Quantum tuning or so, but they only said more bhp which I am not interested in and fuel 4mpg up, torgue up from 260 to 320 for 250£. If possible I'd go only for torque and fuel up and leave bhp untouched. I saw about the ronbox 2e which might help as well, but would need to know if to change the MAF first. Would it be the one here: NEW E39 BMW M5 SINGLE BOSCH MASS AIR FLOW GENUINE SENSOR INSERT F00C2G2029 SALE | eBay
Or the housing to change: FREELANDER 1 TD4 MASS AIR FLOW METER GENUINE BOSCH ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MHK101130L | eBayor can that part be cleaned and it's o nly the 'plastic' part from Bosch?

I read about a Pierburg one. Would the Bosch Maf also go wiht theRonbox then still?
Kind regards
Matthias

PS I forgot about the turbo boost solenoid which is sticked to somewhere. Would that be helpful to change as I have the 70mph problem sometimes as well. Does it have consequences on the fuel as well?

Hi i have a 2e rover ron box fitted to my 05 freelander,erg blanked off
insurance said they were ok with it no extra premium involved
lv insurance found them cheap as well as to the maf senser there
is a switch to turn the maf off i found a great improvement on the cars
performance solo 30mpg towing my t/a caravan about 25 mpg i keep the
box on setting no2 plus as a extra help i put 2 stroke oil in the diesel
overall cannot fault the car pleasure to drive this is only my opinion

BG engine service , and their in with fuels injector cleaner works really well its dearer than FedEx etc but you get what you pay for I suppose..

The engine service can vary in price kwickfit etc charge about £400 I think but the garage I go to charge about £120 and they service a lot of taxis who can't praise this service enough which says a lot about it I think..

but think the egr needs a clean as well as I read this morning on Arctic2's post. Didn't do the blank as I don't want to get in discussion with insurance.

Click to expand...

i'd say get rid of the egr valve .. if nothing else

i think my mpg improved by 3mpg the moment i took mine off

~~~~~~~

i'm currently averaging 40 mpg ..
mixed roads on a 4days-per-week 50 mile round trip run
( probably about 10 mile stop/go city type traffic within that ..
( rest be country 'A' roads .. a few miles of dual.c .. and the odd 'B' road now and again ..

manual gear-box
synergy 2a set always on '10' ( pierburg m.a.f. )
air-con always 'on'
egr valve deleted
i keep ptc-heater use to a minimum
current tyres michelin-latitude-tour .. but got similar mpg with prev. pirelli-scorpion-str

i'll take my foot off the go-pedal with gears engaged whenever feasable
as that totaly cuts the fuel off

~~~~~~

may sound silly ..
but shoe type and seat position make a difference to foot pressure on the go-pedal

btw: i've noticed i get better mpg using regular-diesel .. as opposed to some premium diesel
e.g. got worse mpg when using shell-v-power ..
although with texaco regular or texaco supreme i get about the same mpg
( i always use 'diesel-rhino plus some 2-stroke' in fuel .. so using the premium type fuels is a bit of a waste
( plus it's known that .. at least with shell-v-power .. the 'energy' contained .. is less than regular-diesel ..
( although the formula can change if what's written on various forums is correct ..

PS I forgot about the turbo boost solenoid which is sticked to somewhere. Would that be helpful to change as I have the 70mph problem sometimes as well. Does it have consequences on the fuel as well?

Click to expand...

mpg consequences ?
i would think so .. in that the engine is not operating at max. fuel efficiency through the rpm / load range ..
e.g too much boost for a given load /speed might encourage a higher quantity of fuel to be injected than is needed .. leaving the driver to back-off the pedal if fuel saving is required .. all those little amounts of fuel injected add up ..
be like when cruising at a given speed and trying to use the go-pedal by an amount of pressure just to maintain the speed at any given time ..
rather than leaving it to slowly accelerate thereby using more fuel ..

i'd get that "turbo boost solenoid which is sticked to somewhere." fixed ..

fender246 said:

Hi i have a 2e rover ron box fitted to my 05 freelander,erg blanked off
insurance said they were ok with it no extra premium involved
lv insurance found them cheap as well as to the maf senser there
is a switch to turn the maf off i found a great improvement on the cars
performance solo 30mpg towing my t/a caravan about 25 mpg i keep the
box on setting no2 plus as a extra help i put 2 stroke oil in the diesel
overall cannot fault the car pleasure to drive this is only my opinion

Click to expand...

Thanks, will read further into the 2e specs I think. I use Miller's Diesel Power eco max for a while now and thought it would help too.

thequeenscheese said:

BG engine service , and their in with fuels injector cleaner works really well its dearer than FedEx etc but you get what you pay for I suppose..

The engine service can vary in price kwickfit etc charge about £400 I think but the garage I go to charge about £120 and they service a lot of taxis who can't praise this service enough which says a lot about it I think..

Click to expand...

I had her in the garage for the fuel filter change as they said while doing that they would press some injector cleaner through to get the injectors cleaner. Will check if there is an engine service out here.

hd3 said:

i'd say get rid of the egr valve .. if nothing else

i think my mpg improved by 3mpg the moment i took mine off

~~~~~~~

i'm currently averaging 40 mpg ..
mixed roads on a 4days-per-week 50 mile round trip run
( probably about 10 mile stop/go city type traffic within that ..
( rest be country 'A' roads .. a few miles of dual.c .. and the odd 'B' road now and again ..

manual gear-box
synergy 2a set always on '10' ( pierburg m.a.f. )
air-con always 'on'
egr valve deleted
i keep ptc-heater use to a minimum
current tyres michelin-latitude-tour .. but got similar mpg with prev. pirelli-scorpion-str

i'll take my foot off the go-pedal with gears engaged whenever feasable
as that totaly cuts the fuel off

~~~~~~

may sound silly ..
but shoe type and seat position make a difference to foot pressure on the go-pedal

btw: i've noticed i get better mpg using regular-diesel .. as opposed to some premium diesel
e.g. got worse mpg when using shell-v-power ..
although with texaco regular or texaco supreme i get about the same mpg
( i always use 'diesel-rhino plus some 2-stroke' in fuel .. so using the premium type fuels is a bit of a waste
( plus it's known that .. at least with shell-v-power .. the 'energy' contained .. is less than regular-diesel ..
( although the formula can change if what's written on various forums is correct ..

Click to expand...

I am thinking about if I shouldn't do it and remove it as well. 3mpg more sounds good. 40mpg would be ok for me.

I think the ronbox might be good for the start. How long does it take to amortisize the costs of it?
I thought also that the tyres might make a bit of a difference. Had Conti crosscontact uhp on and changed to the Michelin Blizzak lm80 for winter now.

Usually I use regular diesel, so that would be ok. Going for either Tesco or Esso. I try also to use downhill driving and so on, but with an auto td4 I think it's a bit different, or?

hd3 said:

mpg consequences ?
i would think so .. in that the engine is not operating at max. fuel efficiency through the rpm / load range ..
e.g too much boost for a given load /speed might encourage a higher quantity of fuel to be injected than is needed .. leaving the driver to back-off the pedal if fuel saving is required .. all those little amounts of fuel injected add up ..
be like when cruising at a given speed and trying to use the go-pedal by an amount of pressure just to maintain the speed at any given time ..
rather than leaving it to slowly accelerate thereby using more fuel ..

i'd get that "turbo boost solenoid which is sticked to somewhere." fixed ..

Click to expand...

yep, I think it was on the 70mph post. Something like that came to my mind in the last days. I had it in my basket on island4x4 for quite a while now and think will go for it and also maybe a k&n air filter to get a bit more out of it. I think the solenoid is oem one, hope that'll be ok.

also maybe a k&n air filter

Click to expand...

after reading a post by 'nodge68' .. i came to the conclusion that for a diesel
the standard air filter performed better ..
( i had a k&n on mine .. power performance wasn't any better than the standard filter
( maybe .. just maybe .. a tad more ooomph at 3500 rpm
( but if so .. who needs that ..
( i think even k&n say it may give just 1 or 2 extra bhp ..
( sort of useless in diesel terms where its strength lies in 'tourque' not 'bhp'

i'll see if i can find that post by 'nodge68' that convinced me to stick with the standard paper type ..

~~~~~~~~~~

also didn't realise your running at auto-box ..
they will certainly use a bit more fuel than a manual-box
and going by one of 'epicuser's post .. a remap might be a better option for an auto-box
( it makes sense in that a remap could be tailored to suit the auto box's change-up torque/load requirements )

i'd pm him and ask .. as he seemed quite happy with the remap
( compared to a ron-box ) and i think he runs an auto-box ..

and a remap would .. or could .. be a 'hidden' modification ( re. insurance )
unless they went to the trouble of diagnosing the ecu unit i guess

another addition could be a straight thru back box ( from 'se88' )
turbo spools up quicker .. more torque at lower rpm ..
and it's not 'loud' by any means ..

i'm sure deleting the egr valve
and getting the turbo boosting as and when it should ..
will be beneficial

Just a suggestion to save you some cash, if you remove the EGR and refit a new blank one you can swap the turbo boost solenoid with the EGR solenoid as they are both the same, I have done that with my 55 plate FL1 and its fine. You just need to swap over a small filter thats attached to the side of one of them from memory

And for the record I'm getting 38.3 mpg, mix of urban and a/b roads, EGR bypassed and Millers Eclipse in every tank, and I'm quite heavy footed and yet to refit my Synergy 2a

With regards to the MAF you linked I would use none of them.
NEW E39 BMW M5 SINGLE BOSCH MASS AIR FLOW GENUINE SENSOR INSERT F00C2G2029 SALE | eBay

Or the housing to change: FREELANDER 1 TD4 MASS AIR FLOW METER GENUINE BOSCH ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MHK101130L | eBayor can that part be cleaned and it's only the 'plastic' part from Bosch?

before I moved over to here with my FL 1 we had a massive discussion going on genuine Bosch MAF and have found out that this ne below can be used. Insert only
BMW M5 Z8 E39 E52 Mass Air Flow Airflow Meter Sensor BOSCH 0280217533 MAF | eBay

As opposed to this one because the inserts are the same
Land Rover MHK101130 75 ZT MG Mass Air Flow Sensor Meter BOSCH 0928400520 MAF | eBay

If you are really interested in how the MAF works or should work etc take a read of these links below, R75 but diesel M47 engine.

Diesel replacement Bosch MAF with or without housing? - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

Replacement MAF's for the Diesel 75 - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums


Always good to have a nice clean air filter too
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d0a016d29

hd3 said:

after reading a post by 'nodge68' .. i came to the conclusion that for a diesel
the standard air filter performed better ..
( i had a k&n on mine .. power performance wasn't any better than the standard filter
( maybe .. just maybe .. a tad more ooomph at 3500 rpm
( but if so .. who needs that ..
( i think even k&n say it may give just 1 or 2 extra bhp ..
( sort of useless in diesel terms where its strength lies in 'tourque' not 'bhp'

i'll see if i can find that post by 'nodge68' that convinced me to stick with the standard paper type ..

~~~~~~~~~~

also didn't realise your running at auto-box ..
they will certainly use a bit more fuel than a manual-box
and going by one of 'epicuser's post .. a remap might be a better option for an auto-box
( it makes sense in that a remap could be tailored to suit the auto box's change-up torque/load requirements )

i'd pm him and ask .. as he seemed quite happy with the remap
( compared to a ron-box ) and i think he runs an auto-box ..

and a remap would .. or could .. be a 'hidden' modification ( re. insurance )
unless they went to the trouble of diagnosing the ecu unit i guess

another addition could be a straight thru back box ( from 'se88' )
turbo spools up quicker .. more torque at lower rpm ..
and it's not 'loud' by any means ..

i'm sure deleting the egr valve
and getting the turbo boosting as and when it should ..
will be beneficial

Click to expand...

Ok, thanks, will have a look for the solenoid and ask these guys from remap if they can do only for economy and torque. Would be fine with me anyway. Will check with the insurance to see what they say to it. Guess if no more bhp it might be fine.

chrisflak said:

Just a suggestion to save you some cash, if you remove the EGR and refit a new blank one you can swap the turbo boost solenoid with the EGR solenoid as they are both the same, I have done that with my 55 plate FL1 and its fine. You just need to swap over a small filter thats attached to the side of one of them from memory

Click to expand...

Make sense, i think i read somewhere that this turbo boost would be for exhaust control. 38.3 would still sound good to me if I could that out of her.

Arctic2 said:

With regards to the MAF you linked I would use none of them.
NEW E39 BMW M5 SINGLE BOSCH MASS AIR FLOW GENUINE SENSOR INSERT F00C2G2029 SALE | eBay

Or the housing to change: FREELANDER 1 TD4 MASS AIR FLOW METER GENUINE BOSCH ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MHK101130L | eBayor can that part be cleaned and it's only the 'plastic' part from Bosch?

before I moved over to here with my FL 1 we had a massive discussion going on genuine Bosch MAF and have found out that this ne below can be used. Insert only
BMW M5 Z8 E39 E52 Mass Air Flow Airflow Meter Sensor BOSCH 0280217533 MAF | eBay

As opposed to this one because the inserts are the same
Land Rover MHK101130 75 ZT MG Mass Air Flow Sensor Meter BOSCH 0928400520 MAF | eBay

If you are really interested in how the MAF works or should work etc take a read of these links below, R75 but diesel M47 engine.

Diesel replacement Bosch MAF with or without housing? - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

Replacement MAF's for the Diesel 75 - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums


Always good to have a nice clean air filter too
Land Rover Freelander 2.0 Td4 OE Genuine AIR Filter Service Car TF15429 | eBay

Click to expand...

Sounds interesting. Do you mean to buy the cheaper M5 version and take of the sensor from the housing and use it for the old housing? Haven't read all the link yet, only till p15, but sounds good. I talked to LR in DE today and he said they usually use a spray to clean the wire which would make it like new. Don't know which spray it is though. How could I measure if it defect, like the guys did in the other forum? With an Hawkeye or how it works?

mbrokof said:

Sounds interesting. Do you mean to buy the cheaper M5 version and take of the sensor from the housing and use it for the old housing? Haven't read all the link yet, only till p15, but sounds good. I talked to LR in DE today and he said they usually use a spray to clean the wire which would make it like new. Don't know which spray it is though. How could I measure if it defect, like the guys did in the other forum? With an Hawkeye or how it works?

Click to expand...

Yes a few member bought this one but again have a good read of the threads, before committing yourself if you intend to purchase.
BMW M5 Z8 E39 E52 Mass Air Flow Airflow Meter Sensor BOSCH 0280217533 MAF | eBay

Some member used the Autel to read their maf and measure the defect, I my self have not used one as we have access to T4 at our meets through out the year.

Autel

Diesel replacement Bosch MAF with or without housing? - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

mbrokof said:

I had her in the garage for the fuel filter change as they said while doing that they would press some injector cleaner through to get the injectors cleaner. Will check if there is an engine service out here.

Click to expand...

Deffinetly worth it my lseries flies now, the 0-40 is rapid considering its a sq box shaped heavy beast of a motor, I'd stack mine up against any any other l series without Ron box etc and I'm certain it would leave them standing after I've had it done..

thequeenscheese said:

Deffinetly worth it my lseries flies now, the 0-40 is rapid considering its a sq box shaped heavy beast of a motor, I'd stack mine up against any any other l series without Ron box etc and I'm certain it would leave them standing after I've had it done..

Click to expand...

What's worth it? The fuel filter, injector cleaner or engine service? Mine couldn't rip the skin off custard away from the lights - unless I make a lot of noise and smoke.

Arctic2 said:

Yes a few member bought this one but again have a good read of the threads, before committing yourself if you intend to purchase.
BMW M5 Z8 E39 E52 Mass Air Flow Airflow Meter Sensor BOSCH 0280217533 MAF | eBay

Some member used the Autel to read their maf and measure the defect, I my self have not used one as we have access to T4 at our meets through out the year.

Autel

Diesel replacement Bosch MAF with or without housing? - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

Click to expand...

Yes, will read further through and see. For now I ordered a MAF cleaner. Hope that'll help for the meantime. Coming up other stuff at the moment, guess, the fuel pump and so on.