Fixed one electrical problem, now more!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

paclx

Member
Posts
74
Location
Hong Kong
Okay, so I decided to replace the fuse box on my 97 P38 4.6 after finding two of the BeCM posts on the circuit board had come adrift from the solder joins, causing the usual "Fuses Blown" and other usual warning messages. Prior to this, all earth points had been cleaned, cables from the alternator and battery beefed up and replaced, battery charged on a 3 stage charger, and all seemed to be fine apart from the fault messages.

While I was at it, I also decided to have a go at repairing the RH blend servo and RH recirculation servo, have a look at the poor visibility of the message display on the instrument panel, replace some lamps in the dash switch pack, replace the cruise control switch on the brake peddle and repair various broken plastic parts that had suffered from age.

All seemed to be going well. Cleaned all the contacts on the multi-plugs and BeCM lugs for the fuse box, reconnected everything, charged the battery on a 3 stage charger. Found both blend motors were actually working when I used a 9V battery on the multi-plug, Removed the front and rear covers of the instrument panel, cleaned years of dust on the inside of the clear plastic front cover, couldn't seen anything to check on the message display, replace a few lamps for good measure, then reassembles everything. Now, it's worth pointing out that AC was working fine (cold) before I started, apart from the book symbol and servos.

I put the key in the ignition, turned to the second position and got all the window/sunroof not set messages AND alternator fault! Set all the windows and sunroof. Cleared fault codes and calibrated the servos with Nanocom. No book symbol!!!!! Started the engine and all seemed fine. However, the AC was not engaging but the condenser fans were running. The temp gauge didn't move even after 5 minutes. Switched off the engine and notice the temp gauge did move to the far left as usual when ignition is off, and moved very slightly when ignition was on.

I rechecked the connections of the multi-connectors on the fuse box, check seating of fuses and relays associated with the AC, all seemed fine, but the compressor clutch wouldn't engage. Had the dash switch pack off again to check the interior temp sensor connector, had the instrument panel out again an checked the connections just in case that was the cause of the temp gauge issue.

So, any ideas as to why the AC clutch won't engage, compressor fans run, temp gauge doesn't read and the alternator fault message which only come on when the ignition is in position 2, goes off when the engine starts and there is no reminder message when the ignition is switched off? So disappointing, as it was all going so well.
 
The label isn't there.
On early cars, the aircon compressor was controlled directly from the HEVAC, on later cars it's via a relay in the fuse box.
You need at the vey least to do a close visual comparison between old and new fuse boxes. Any difference in relay or fuse positions would tend to confirm you have the wrong box.
 
I did take a photo before removing the old one, just to record relay and fuse locations to be safe. They look both the same to me.
 

Attachments

  • Old Fuse Box.jpg
    Old Fuse Box.jpg
    226.2 KB · Views: 601
  • New Fuse Box.jpg
    New Fuse Box.jpg
    153.4 KB · Views: 1,701
I did take a photo before removing the old one, just to record relay and fuse locations to be safe. They look both the same to me.

They do indeed so that sort that out. Major wiring changes came in 1999 so fitting a fuse box of that era would cause a number of problems. Looks like you have some searching to do with the old multimeter or good diag may help quicker.
 
It's the temp gauge and alternator fault that really fox me. I believe I'm correct that the temp gauge gets it's info from the BeCM, so any idea how I can test it?
 
Back
Top