Fitting chequerplate, just rivet?

tankduck · Feb 24, 2009

Evening all,
sorry to bring the dirty CP words in tonight, but I'm fitting it for functional reasons (roof rack) not bling, honest!! And I got black, so its pretty subtle.

Anyways, for fitting I read somewhere that people put a layer of grease on the back of the chequer and then rivet it down, but surely this would just wash out rather than actually benefit that much. Does anyone else do this, or use sealant....etc. My theory was to just have it so that water could get in and out easy, rather than a section of sealant breaking so water gets trapped and my defender dissolves!

Kris

storm99 · Feb 24, 2009

Bit of silicon all the way around, about an inch or so in, then rivet it on. Got a good seal and no mess then either. If you dont use anything the water will just sit under the plating and cause probs...

tankduck · Feb 24, 2009

I might give that a go actually, I guess once its pressed down it will seal pretty well too. The holes that are predrilled seem to be very slightly countersunk, is it worth using bolts or are rivets better?

Kris

storm99 · Feb 24, 2009

tankduck said:
I might give that a go actually, I guess once its pressed down it will seal pretty well too. The holes that are predrilled seem to be very slightly countersunk, is it worth using bolts or are rivets better?

Kris

Rivets, bolts just end up ripping things to bits...like hands ..and bags if yours is on roof.

bustersbus · Feb 24, 2009

Ah take it ye're on about the wing tops or bonnet and not the roof? If so then do as Storm says and stick some sealant around the edges. If yer planning on removing these at a later date then something like roof and gutter seal might be a good plan as it should be a bit easier to remove

Oh, and ah just used the screw bolts that fit flush with the cp

bustersbus · Feb 24, 2009

These are the things ah'm on about...

storm99 · Feb 24, 2009

He's a putting it on the roof.....bolts would be a very bad idea...plenty of trips to casualty i reckon with head wounds!

ratty · Feb 25, 2009

storm99 said:
He's a putting it on the roof.....bolts would be a very bad idea...plenty of trips to casualty i reckon with head wounds!

He said he's fitting it due to a roofrack. I'm with Buster in that I rekon he's putting it on the wings and/or bonnet to stand on while accessing the roofrack.

Hopefuly he will clarify this though.

tankduck · Feb 25, 2009

Yep, I meant I need them on the wings and bonnet because of the roof rack, sorry for the misunderstanding.

Whats the depth of the tapered part of them screws? only asking because the chequer I have is only 1.5 or 2 mm thick, and them screws look like they'd stick up off the plate. They do look smart though.

Kris

ratty · Feb 25, 2009

tankduck said:
Yep, I meant I need them on the wings and bonnet because of the roof rack, sorry for the misunderstanding.

Whats the depth of the tapered part of them screws? only asking because the chequer I have is only 1.5 or 2 mm thick, and them screws look like they'd stick up off the plate. They do look smart though.

Kris

after drilling the holes run a countersunk bit into em and they'll sit flush then.

tankduck · Feb 25, 2009

Sorry for being dim, but do you mean the holes in the chequer itself, as that is already tapered, just not very thick, and how thick are the wing panels, I thought they would be too thin to countersink. I guess I could just experiment until the hole in the wing is enough to pack washers between the body panel and the nut. its not worth using washers inbetween the chequer and body is there if I'm using silicone? Bit pi**ed off now that I didn't get a fitting kit with all this now.

ratty · Feb 25, 2009

tankduck said:
Sorry for being dim, but do you mean the holes in the chequer itself, as that is already tapered, just not very thick, and how thick are the wing panels, I thought they would be too thin to countersink. I guess I could just experiment until the hole in the wing is enough to pack washers between the body panel and the nut. its not worth using washers inbetween the chequer and body is there if I'm using silicone? Bit pi**ed off now that I didn't get a fitting kit with all this now.

yes the holes in the CP. You can get different size countersunk screws/bolts. You can either drill deeper countersinks or get smaller bolts. I rivetted the CP on one of my previous landys. My current one has screws and rivets. It's a matter of personal preference.

It is definately worth siliconing around em as when it rains water gets behind and then flicks up on the windscreen as you drive otherwise.

tankduck · Feb 25, 2009

I didn't even consider that the water would do that, I was just thinking about stuff corroding. There is a really good hardware shop down the road that should be able to sort me out, I'll post up pics when I'm done as I still haven't posted my new landie in the introduce yourself bit!! For shame

Kris

Griffdowg · Feb 25, 2009

sillycone + SS countersunk bolts

G

boydy1989 · Feb 25, 2009

jus to be picky, but it might help when you go into the hardware shop, they are called machine screws, or so i am lead to believe.

Bolts are hex heads.

Griffdowg · Feb 25, 2009

true! good point. you dont want to come home with some hex heads

tankduck · Feb 25, 2009

so unbelievably gutted, shop closed 10 minutes before I got there

Then I was stuck in the traffic in Peterborough for 20 mins!!!! Typical

bustersbus · Feb 25, 2009

the size ah used on mine was M6 x 25mm

tankduck · Feb 25, 2009

I'll ask for them in the morning then buster, they seem pretty good there so I trust that they will have them. Because I have the full chequer kit, I have chequered sills too (not sure what their function is but hey), they only have a hole each end to attach through, and they are not countersunk. Sorry for dragging out all the stupid questions but is it better to rivet these, but silicone them the same as the wings?

david451 · Feb 25, 2009

tankduck said:
so unbelievably gutted, shop closed 10 minutes before I got there Then I was stuck in the traffic in Peterborough for 20 mins!!!! Typical

If you aint worried about getting it off again, then I would use sikaflex, comes in different colours, takes 24hrs to completly cure but once it has nothing will break the seal. Comes it tubes the same as silicone, just heat it a bit to help it flow out the tubes

We used it in trailers for securing the load rails for the cages, once cured the side of the trailer came out before the seal broke. I guess it saves the hastle of drilling holes and the reaction of the two metals. All you need to figure out is how to clamp it untill it sets, if it's the roof a few sand bags or perhaps a ratchet strap with a few wooden blocks.

Dont drill the roof or it will be forever leaking, we did that to a bus in the brigade to fit that plate so they could go on the roof for the sat dish and with all the silicone in the world it pished water shortly after through all the bolts since you cant seal them properly.

Fitting chequerplate, just rivet?

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