first time owner and suspension fail straight of the bat!

holidaychicken said:

can anyone remember what i asked, i am learning a lot though.
the fecker still will not start but cranks super quick.
i have been having a search and some mention about the immobiliser code getting lost after the battery being disconnected which allows it to crank but not start, make any sense
and if so if my allcomms gets here before christmas, would that help in a diagnosis?

Click to expand...

The Sync Issue only effects the P38....the L322 system is a little more reliable.

The All Comms may pick up something a miss...but not guaranteed.

Under the Engine acoustic cover on the fuel rail is a Schreider type valve, using a small screwdriver/allen key and a rag to catch any fuel...carefully push the centre of the valve in and see if you have fuel pressure.....crank for a few seconds, then do this test....it will tell you if the fuel pump is running and producing pressure.

Be very careful as the fuel will be under pressure, so ensure you cover the valve with a rag in a manner that you can a) catch all the spray and b) see it spraying...this is what the RAC man did on mine to see if the pump was producing pressure.

thanks mate, i'll have a look when i get 5, only just finished work thanks to the delightful m25 roadworks around surrey and people setting fire to their lorries, i could understand if it was a range rover.....

i did wonder if it had run out of fuel as i don't trust the fuel gauge as when i filled it up completely it only read 3/4
i did notice the last time i started it, it ran a bit lumpy and didn't want to rev, but your test will prove either way

i have my allcoms, £16 charge to collect it and 18 days delivery. i found out that priority mail means that its not priority, express is the quicker delivery but who cares now....

any things to be careful of before i fry my ECU's?

holidaychicken said:

i have my allcoms, £16 charge to collect it and 18 days delivery. i found out that priority mail means that its not priority, express is the quicker delivery but who cares now....

any things to be careful of before i fry my ECU's?

Click to expand...

finally !!!

dont play around with any of the settings until you know what they do !

although i dont think you can do much damage with an all comms, unlike the faultmate !

2.0_hippo said:

finally !!!

dont play around with any of the settings until you know what they do !

although i dont think you can do much damage with an all comms, unlike the faultmate !

Click to expand...

cheers, it wont start at the moment so i guess i'll plug it in and see how many thousands of faults it has, stand by for panic

i have tried the schrader valve test on the fuel line and nothing happens, i cranked the engine, tested the valve and no pressure, and then repeated with the same result.
i have the fault below that will clear but then re occurs.

any ideas of where to go from here?


immobilisation ecu code exchange fault last occurrence maximum signal

i also have can bus fault on the air suspension but the air suspension lights are back on and i need to start it to then turn the steering wheel to reset i guess

helpppp

have you tried using your spare key to start the car ??

2.0_hippo said:

have you tried using your spare key to start the car ??

Click to expand...

i have now, good shout but no go still

this occurred after i disconnected the battery to charge if that helps, should i start a new thread for the non starting issue?

Sounds like something to do with the immobiliser

So is the engine cranking over ? Or are you getting nothing when turning the key to start ?

2.0_hippo said:

Sounds like something to do with the immobiliser

So is the engine cranking over ? Or are you getting nothing when turning the key to start ?

Click to expand...

it cranks fine but doesn't show any signs of trying to fire and also no fuel pressure
i know it had a new fuel pump just before i bought it

the last time i started it i did notice it revved slightly high on its own and stuttered when i revved it which it hadn't done before. always started on the button revved high for a minute then dropped off of choke to a steady idle

if i check power to fuel pump fuse and relay will that tell me if its immobiliser issue?

i also wonder if my fuel gauge is telling me the truth and it hasnt run out of petrol as when i filled it up it only showed 3/4 full??

how many miles you done since filling up ??

2.0_hippo said:

how many miles you done since filling up ??

Click to expand...

when i got it i put £70 in straight away which showed just over half.
then after about 50 miles i then put another £50 in which stopped on the petrol pump so guessed it was full but the fuel gauge showed only 3/4 full

i reckon i then did 200 - 220 miles maybe. it was about 280 miles total home

may have done another 10-15 miles locally

you wasnt expecting a maths test when you asked

what do you think?

Just making sure you hadn't run out of fuel
But you can't have

But deffo sounds like a dodgy fuel gauge


Your non starting problem sounds immobiliser related

I would first check your getting power to the fuel pump
I'd you haven't then it could be immobiliser related

2.0_hippo said:

Just making sure you hadn't run out of fuel
But you can't have

But deffo sounds like a dodgy fuel gauge


Your non starting problem sounds immobiliser related

I would first check your getting power to the fuel pump
I'd you haven't then it could be immobiliser related

Click to expand...

thanks mate, i am going to chuck a couple of gallons in anyway from a can, i didnt hang around on the way back but at least i know for sure

i'll check to see if power is going to the pump / relay

any ideas on what the fault meant on my all comms?

Definatly sounds Immobiliser or EWS ECU related!

The EWS ECU is what the keys are coded to....

I get a fault regarding Key 0 codes increased etc, as I only have 1 key and the other key has gone out of the rolling code sequence!

Need to get it on a fault mate

And then re code keys to immobiliser ECU

With no fuel pressure it's never going to start, my guess is it's out of petrol.

If the battery has been connected or disconnected at some point with the key in ignition then the fuel gauge will give a false reading, something to do with its memory settings

Saint.V8 said:

Definatly sounds Immobiliser or EWS ECU related!

The EWS ECU is what the keys are coded to....

I get a fault regarding Key 0 codes increased etc, as I only have 1 key and the other key has gone out of the rolling code sequence!

Click to expand...

It only takes a few mins to re sync both keys! I'm guessing you know how to do it?

paulvasey said:

It only takes a few mins to re sync both keys! I'm guessing you know how to do it?

Click to expand...

I do, but I only have a single key...!!