First Clutch change - BRITPART any good???

Hi, first time I have had to change a clutch on my Disco, I have seen a BRITPART one for really cheap money, good old ebay... heres the link

eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

Does it seem too cheap???

Also has anyone got any tips when doing it, is there enough room to split the box and engine or is it a case of taking either the gearbox or engine out, any advise would be really helpful and thank you in advance..

Personally if I was changing mine I would go for heavy duty
paddocks do 1 here Britpart Heavy Duty Clutch Kit (plate, cover and release bearing) - all 4cyl Diesel except 130 300TDI
May want to go all the way and do the fork,master and slave too

For the work and effort involved, don't buy the cheapest you can find...especially that ****part one! It's false economy

joe1972 said:

For the work and effort involved, don't buy the cheapest you can find...especially that ****part one! It's false economy

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Could not have said it better myself.

joe1972 said:

For the work and effort involved, don't buy the cheapest you can find...especially that ****part one! It's false economy

Click to expand...

Go for REALLY good quality

VALEO = original equipment

AP Lockheed

Borg and Beck

don't scrimp as you will be dropping the box again

as mentioned false economy do it right first time

some britpart are ok, half of there parts that have been mentioned by the others on this thread are used by Britpart, loads of these are fitted and still ok, you can get good and bad in all quality of parts, you have to use what you can afford and for the use you are going to give it
so many slag off britpart, but if you did a genuine survey on here you would find Britpart do ok!

personaly, i would never fit anything ****part to my 90 again.

made the mistake when i first got it, did,nt know a lot about lrs then, dont now!!!

but i have learnt britpart aint called ****part for nowt.

there's a good few stickers around that have proven to be fairy reliable

I have yet to see anything BRITPART that has been decent, or has lasted. Perhaps sometimes they will have a good batch, not that I have seen but that’s not good enough, it needs to be consistently good quality.

Britpart don't make anything, they send patterns out and the lowest bidder gets the contract. The parts tend to be copied poorly and made with low quality materials.

A list of Britpart failures I know of (seen firsthand, in photos or from other LR enthusiasts I know):

I bought some tail lights, honestly didn't think they could go wrong with them, oh how wrong I was, when the lamps heat up the plastic lamp holder melts, the spring then forces the lugs of the lamp through the plastic like a hot knife through butter. Result, lamps won’t stay in place, replacement needed.

Catastrophic TRE fail, as in ball joint was able to slip through the housing, because they skimped on material around the ball so that after a small amount of corrosion it was possible to pull through. That just should not happen at an early stage of deterioration.

Water pumps with casting issues.

Brand new seals that leak instantly as they are not a good enough fit.

A switch which failed immediately as the contacts inside were assembled the wrong way round.

Clutch plate that the centre drive ripped out of after 2 days use.

Brake masters that are already letting fluid leak past the seals BRAND NEW – worrying!

That’s just to name a handful.

they are wholesaler and sell oe ,genuine and branded all often cheaper than others ,not just pattern ,most of your genuine stuff comes through them,just dont buy pattern for some parts from anyone buy the good

Just replaced mine with a 4 piece AP kit from flea bay 85 quid which included the finger plate, friction plate, spigot and thrust bearing. replaced the fork as well as the thrust bearing which were obliterated, the slave and master just to make sure there was nothing else to fail. Only wanted to do the job once!
I also replaced the reverse light switch while I had to drop the box which hadn't worked since I bought the old girl.

Thanks for all your replies... I take it from a couple of the replies that it is box out to do the job?

Also... I have decided against the Britpart clutch, when there is such a debate about quality on a product I would rather use a part that most people can say, 'yes I would use that as well' thanks for your input everyone, so - is this 'approved' LAND ROVER DISCOVERY DEFENDER 4 PC CLUTCH KIT AP | eBay

To add to a few Britpart points..

Brand new front calipers for range rover classic vented discs, tolerances so loose that pads rattle around in there, every time you touch the pedal first you hear a click as it takes up the slack. And one caliper didnt want to bleed up, turns out it was ****ing fluid thru the seals onto my new pads.. At least Paddock were good enough to send a new caliper and new pads for free

dont buy gaskets either.. rocker cover leaks twice as bad after fitting a new one.

The 50 quid polybush set wasnt bad mind, rather stiff ride and needed a bit of fetling to make fit as tolerances are not great, but for the price it beats spending nearly 200 quid!

Definately avoid prop shafts too, they last 6 months. cheaper to get genuine 2nd hand, and will definately outlast Britpart!

as for a clutch, I just got an AP lockhead one, looks quality and worth the extra money as reviews sugest they are very good!

And yes, box will have to come out.

They are darned heavy, done a few now and always a struggle due to the weight. Getting it out is fairly easy, but last time to put back in I split the gearbox from the Transfer box.
Yes it means a bit more work essentially, but sooooo much easier to get the gearbox onto the engine!! With the vehicle about 6 inches up off the floor on the 4 poster ramp to give enough room for our heads, 2 of us sat on the floor under the truck and lifted it in by hand. then transfer box is a simple lift up and onto the shaft.

Excellent info, thanks

Clutch done, AP driveline one used - also used engine crane inside the disco to support/lower/raise the box - made it easy work

I did mine last week parked on road outside the house .Just a trolley jack and bottle jack and a strong mate.Hardest bit is getting at housing bolts to engine.

For what it's worth I did my clutch back in April on my own outside in the drive.

Drop the back of the box to get to the top bell housing bolts. There bastards so I left the top two out, common thing to do.

Once the bolts are undone I screwed in three long threaded bars at the base of the box before splitting it. This took the weight of the box and meant that I could relocate it with relative ease on my own.

I bought a Berg and Beck clutch kit with thrust bearing and a HD fork. Thoroughly recommend the kit.

Important note. It is easy to pull the fork rod out of the fork when it is all fitted and you have to work on the slave cylinder. There is a trick where you tie wrap the rod in place around the clip.mi did this and it saved me I'm sure of it.

To centre the clutch I used a deep socket and some electrical tape to size it. All in all the job, which was the first time I did it, took me 8 hours over two days. I was on my own and the driveway is gravel. A bitch when you want to slide the trolley jack whilst balancing the box on it. Thank **** for the threaded bar.

Next time around I will probably take only 2 to 3 hours.

Good luck.mit easy but daunting the first time around.