Finally I got it!

Well friends, after a long seeking, trying a lot of them and seeing awful cars, very expensive and very cheap cars to be true, yesterday I purchased my first discovery 2.
Engine is alright, sometimes in cold start there is a little noise near the steering wheel, interior very good,
Sometimes when engaging 3rd from 2nd there's a little "click", from 4rd to 3rd is alright, apart from that all the gears engage lovely.
I can't complain, BUT after doing about 100miles when I got home playing with the gear stick I realised I could disengage every gear putting into neutral without clutch OMG, is this normal? or I must assume I bought a car with a knackered gearbox.

Thanks a lot

volquete said:

Well friends, after a long seeking, trying a lot of them and seeing awful cars, very expensive and very cheap cars to be true, yesterday I purchased my first discovery 2.
Engine is alright, sometimes in cold start there is a little noise near the steering wheel, interior very good,
Sometimes when engaging 3rd from 2nd there's a little "click", from 4rd to 3rd is alright, apart from that all the gears engage lovely.
I can't complain, BUT after doing about 100miles when I got home playing with the gear stick I realised I could disengage every gear putting into neutral without clutch OMG, is this normal? or I must assume I bought a car with a knackered gearbox.

Thanks a lot

Click to expand...

Yes quite normal to be able to move gears out to neutral with transmission lightly loaded, so as long as none of the gears jump into neutral on their own accord you are on a winner, the R380 gearbox is generally a robust unit.

'Little noise by the steering wheel' is probably the fan for the cabin temperature sensor, just behind the little grille there. It blows the cabin air over the sensor behind it, but gets bunged up with belly button fluff, dandruff, bogeys (depending on how the previous owner whiled away the hours behind the wheel), but it can be removed and cleaned.

Got any piccies please ?

And, as Gazbo says - it is entirely normal to be able to take it out of gear without the clutch when the box is lightly loaded.

Thanks a lot mates, sorry for not answering earlier but as usual busy as ....
It´s a good thing you´ve told me that about gears as yes, they don´t jump by themselves so I assume gearbox is spot on

In regards the noise, I can´t clearly spot it since today I fired the landy up after this last days off and the noise was slight louder but as soon as I jumped out the car the noise or squeak was really loud and it came from the front engine belts althought there is not aparently lurching in any of the pulleys.

So things to start with this weekend
-Full service: engine, gearbox, transfer and diffs


-Noise from front engine or dashboard
-Checking for oil pump loose bolt
-Tailgate door won´t open
-Diff lock dashboard light. In theory this discovery is not diff lock fitted (the stick doesn´t move to left) but the light keeps on every time. I bought it like that as I was told by the previous owner that was a loose switch as he didn´t use to engage low range, with a quick search this comes


I think it´s a lot but hopefuly will get sorted apart from the noise because I´m afraid it might be something big

And finally after this loooong (and sad) text, some pictures as requested







I hope you like because I think it´s going to be a love-hate relationship

volquete said:

Thanks a lot mates, sorry for not answering earlier but as usual busy as ....
It´s a good thing you´ve told me that about gears as yes, they don´t jump by themselves so I assume gearbox is spot on

In regards the noise, I can´t clearly spot it since today I fired the landy up after this last days off and the noise was slight louder but as soon as I jumped out the car the noise or squeak was really loud and it came from the front engine belts althought there is not aparently lurching in any of the pulleys.

So things to start with this weekend
-Full service: engine, gearbox, transfer and diffs

Click to expand...

Have fun doing a service, but where are the filters you'll need, air, oil and fuel?
Don't forget to grease the prop shafts as a part of your service routine. On the standard prop shafts there are two grease nipples, one on each Hardy-Spicer U/J and one on each sliding joint. You might have small bolt heads which you have to replace with grease nipples. Check also that a previous owner hasn't replaced other parts with "greaseable" units such as trackrod ends. I have greaseable double cardon joints on my front prop shaft, for example.

Cheers Brian, I need to order the filters tonight . All the fluids were taken on my local shop, but they didn´t have filters on offer.
Good point about the grease, I´ll do it as well.

By the way some updates, noise gets slight betters once car warms up but stills and another trouble, even having watertight sunroofs I noticed wet roof upholstery area OMG

Water-tight sunroofs doesn't just mean where the glass meets the rubber seal, but where the whole sunroof assembly; the metal frame meets the roof. D2's are notorious for leaking from that area rather than the glass.
The next problem area could be the mountings for the roof rails, but that is less likely than the sunroof. Another area to check is the sealing of the rain gutter, particularly at the corners.
I've attached some of the LR water ingress manuals which you might find useful.
The last thing to remember is that rainwater and tap water are very similar liquids which behave in very different ways. If tap water leaks in, it just means that you've left a window open, but rainwater will find its way in through even though you've sealed everything twice.

The squeak from the front of mine was the auxiliary belt tensioner not doing its job plus a new belt which was a bit lacking in grip on the outer edge which let the PAS pulley slip.
There's a thread in the Disco section regarding the better brands of aux belt to go for. Using my phone now and about head to work so cannot look for it and cannot recall what I fitted to sort it. Suffice to say the newly fitted one was no where near as grippy as the rellacement.

I had to use a genuine belt on mine

brian47 said:

Water-tight sunroofs doesn't just mean where the glass meets the rubber sea, but where the whole sunroof assembly; the metal frame meets the roof. D2's are notorious for leaking from that area rather than the glass.
The next problem area could be the mountings for the roof rails, but that is less likely than the sunroof. Another area to check is the sealing of the rain gutter, particularly at the corners.
I've attached some of the LR water ingress manuals which you might find useful.
The last thing to remember is that rainwater and tap water are very similar liquids which behave in very different ways. If tap water leaks in, it just means that you've left a window open, but rainwater will find its way in through even though you've sealed everything twice.

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Yes, you're completely right, I could clearly see what you just said as the main wet area is above headrest next to tailgate so I assume it comes through from the zones that are shown on documents attached, thank you very much indeed for the documents, straight saved onto my land rover folder LOL

Feathers McGraw said:

The squeak from the front of mine was the auxiliary belt tensioner not doing its job plus a new belt which was a bit lacking in grip on the outer edge which let the PAS pulley slip.
There's a thread in the Disco section regarding the better brands of aux belt to go for. Using my phone now and about head to work so cannot look for it and cannot recall what I fitted to sort it. Suffice to say the newly fitted one was no where near as grippy as the rellacement.

Click to expand...

MJI said:

I had to use a genuine belt on mine

Click to expand...

It's a very good starting point then I'll leave it for another weekend and changing water pump at the same job.

I'm sorry to be a pain, but any idea about the diff lock dashboard light? I have tried by reversing a few metres ( I read this anywhere) also checking break lights (somebody mentioned that its fuse is gone, the diff lock light comes) and nothing has worked for me.

Thanks a lot guys

Regards

MJI said:

I had to use a genuine belt on mine

Click to expand...

It's a Gates on mine and has been fine.

volquete said:

Yes, you're completely right, I could clearly see what you just said as the main wet area is above headrest next to tailgate so I assume it comes through from the zones that are shown on documents attached, thank you very much indeed for the documents, straight saved onto my land rover folder LOL

It's a very good starting point then I'll leave it for another weekend and changing water pump at the same job.

I'm sorry to be a pain, but any idea about the diff lock dashboard light? I have tried by reversing a few metres ( I read this anywhere) also checking break lights (somebody mentioned that its fuse is gone, the diff lock light comes) and nothing has worked for me.

Thanks a lot guys

Regards

Click to expand...

Diff lock light, mine comes on when engaged and goes out if I provoke a little slip after disengaging. Not sure why but it has done that since I bought it.

Feathers McGraw said:

It's a Gates on mine and has been fine.

Click to expand...

TD5 with every pulley?

So many squeaked I had to get genuine.

@volquete

You say it does not have difflock because the lever does not move sideways.

Have you checked to see if the T box has diff lock? the serial number should tell you this as well. Some had the internals fitted, but not the lever mechanism. Not sure on the D2, but the D1 was notorious for having the lever seize up for difflock, although I believe they are different engagement systems.
Also you can look under the leather cover and see if it is just a slot or a square whole in the plate.

Have you checked to see if there is a diff lock electrical switch fitted?

Oh, as you have a leak in the roof, have you got your EKA code?

Cheers

neilly said:

@volquete

You say it does not have difflock because the lever does not move sideways.

Have you checked to see if the T box has diff lock? the serial number should tell you this as well. Some had the internals fitted, but not the lever mechanism. Not sure on the D2, but the D1 was notorious for having the lever seize up for difflock, although I believe they are different engagement systems.
Also you can look under the leather cover and see if it is just a slot or a square whole in the plate.

Have you checked to see if there is a diff lock electrical switch fitted?

Oh, as you have a leak in the roof, have you got your EKA code?

Cheers

Click to expand...

D2 seize up as well, the rod rusts into the pivot. Plus Gas and grease fixes it.

I will do that checking tonight, maybe I get a surprise and mine gets factory fitted. I'll be generous with wd40 and we'll see what happens.
And neilly, in regards to roof leak what's the EKA code for?

If the roof leak takes out your RF receiver the EKA code can be useful to keep driving.

Cheers

Oh god, it sounds then like it's the first thing to get sorted

Thanks a lot

I did put this link in your previous post, but have it again. may help you in the future.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/handy-buying-alarm-info.311291/

Cheers