faults faults faults

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th33ngineer

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4
Reset all the fault codes today. Took the rangy for a long drive and got the christmas tree dash again.
My list of faults in my blackbox solution FCR currently active are now are

Steering angle plausability
Air Susp - CAN bus failure - intermittent current
Diesel engine - glow plug relay failure ( might explain why it takes a few revolutions to kick over)

My battery voltage at standstill is 12.59V (new fully charged I would expect 13.8v from a lead acid battery but 12.59 isn't drastically low). This spikes down to approx 9.5V on kick over of the starter motor.

I have tried disconnecting the battery, reconnecting, clearing the faults, starting up and doing the full lock left/right but the steering angle plausibility fault comes back after a few mins of driving.

As I mentioned in previous posts, this all started when I changed the track rod ends. Cant understand it. Maybe too many coincidences.
 
Reset all the fault codes today. Took the rangy for a long drive and got the christmas tree dash again.
My list of faults in my blackbox solution FCR currently active are now are

Steering angle plausability
Air Susp - CAN bus failure - intermittent current
Diesel engine - glow plug relay failure ( might explain why it takes a few revolutions to kick over)

My battery voltage at standstill is 12.59V (new fully charged I would expect 13.8v from a lead acid battery but 12.59 isn't drastically low). This spikes down to approx 9.5V on kick over of the starter motor.

I have tried disconnecting the battery, reconnecting, clearing the faults, starting up and doing the full lock left/right but the steering angle plausibility fault comes back after a few mins of driving.

As I mentioned in previous posts, this all started when I changed the track rod ends. Cant understand it. Maybe too many coincidences.

You won't see 13.8 volts except when it has just come off charge, 12.8 is fully charged after resting, 12.59 equates to about 60% charged.

Sounds like you cocked up when you did the track rod ends, something is out of kilter, the steering angle sensor sounds as though it out of position when you are driving straight. Only a guess. CAN bus failure seems to be a common theme mostly ignored.

Check for bad battery connections and that the alternator is giving 14.2 volts at the battery after a few minutes with 2k rpm. Lots of faults are simply due to low battery volts/duff alternators.
 
I will continue my investigation once the rain is off. Don't want to fork out cash for a new battery if this one is ok.
It was to my understanding that once the battery is reconnected and the engine started, the steering angle sensor is recalibrated by turning the wheel full left then full right. Am I missing something on that one. I am thinking of taking it to a 4x4 wheel alignment specialist to check all the alignments out but even that is 130 quid.
I need to check the cold crank rating of the fitted battery. What voltage would be an acceptable drop on starting before a low voltage would cause errors?
 
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