F4 (C1151), Three Amigos and Brake light of F1 V6 in 3rd World Country

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Skafander

Member
Posts
29
Location
Brasilia
Hi, It's my first adventure with Landrover. Very long and bad - bought 05 Freelander V6 model 3 years ago. Car driven only for 30 days, as seller sold me it with blown head gasket. I've then tried to fix it with 4 mechanics in the country I'm currently at (3rd world country). They took from me a lot of money, did 3 general renovation of engine (exchanging pans couple times, some cylinders, pistons etc.). None of them fixed the car. Because during all of these, I've lost my job, cannot bought a new car and needed to stay in here.

Decided to finish repair myself - exchanged totally both engine heads, as mechanics did not make measures of height of the old heads - they were weared off, and never should be used again. That fixed engine problem. In meantime I needed to fix many failures of previous "work" of mechanics in here, including many broken screws, needing to tap many screw holes. Needed even to make one engine mount, as they lost it during their "work" (along with couple, less necessary pieces).

Ouh, and forgot to tell - exchanged front diff myself too, because after engine repair and driving 50km it breaked apart.

Car after 2.5 years at different mechanics started to work again!

MY CURRENT PROBLEM.

Car is driving nice. But after reaching ~40 km/h I've got at once 5 errors - ABS, TC, HDC, 4F and Brake light. Gearbox is switching gears nicely, no problem with that, reverse works fine. On computer I get following ABS Errors - C1018, C1034, C1151. First two are for the both front ABS sensors - I've asked for diagnose them, and they both shows proper speed. So looks like ABS sensors are fine. Last one is fault of CAN bus.

So far I did - rechecking the cables - checked barrel connectors. Found 2 slightly unisolated cables near he barrel connectors - isolated them again (they weren't broken). I've cleaned and fixed brake switch (brake lights work, waiting currently for new one anyway). I've checked resistance of gearbox sensors - they were all fine.

One of the mechanic confessed that errors came in when he exchanged CV Joints, I've bought new ones, and saw that they got slightly different design - exchanged them, but no difference on dash, but ABS is not engaging on every braking now.
 
Hi, It's my first adventure with Landrover. Very long and bad - bought 05 Freelander V6 model 3 years ago. Car driven only for 30 days, as seller sold me it with blown head gasket. I've then tried to fix it with 4 mechanics in the country I'm currently at (3rd world country). They took from me a lot of money, did 3 general renovation of engine (exchanging pans couple times, some cylinders, pistons etc.). None of them fixed the car. Because during all of these, I've lost my job, cannot bought a new car and needed to stay in here.

Decided to finish repair myself - exchanged totally both engine heads, as mechanics did not make measures of height of the old heads - they were weared off, and never should be used again. That fixed engine problem. In meantime I needed to fix many failures of previous "work" of mechanics in here, including many broken screws, needing to tap many screw holes. Needed even to make one engine mount, as they lost it during their "work" (along with couple, less necessary pieces).

Ouh, and forgot to tell - exchanged front diff myself too, because after engine repair and driving 50km it breaked apart.

Car after 2.5 years at different mechanics started to work again!

MY CURRENT PROBLEM.

Car is driving nice. But after reaching ~40 km/h I've got at once 5 errors - ABS, TC, HDC, 4F and Brake light. Gearbox is switching gears nicely, no problem with that, reverse works fine. On computer I get following ABS Errors - C1018, C1034, C1151. First two are for the both front ABS sensors - I've asked for diagnose them, and they both shows proper speed. So looks like ABS sensors are fine. Last one is fault of CAN bus.

So far I did - rechecking the cables - checked barrel connectors. Found 2 slightly unisolated cables near he barrel connectors - isolated them again (they weren't broken). I've cleaned and fixed brake switch (brake lights work, waiting currently for new one anyway). I've checked resistance of gearbox sensors - they were all fine.

One of the mechanic confessed that errors came in when he exchanged CV Joints, I've bought new ones, and saw that they got slightly different design - exchanged them, but no difference on dash, but ABS is not engaging on every braking now.

Welcome aboard! Sorry to hear your freelander has given you so much grief, while I've never encountered this combination of faults together myself, I remember a previous discussion relating those this sort of thing occurring and it was pointed out by @Hippo that the multiplugs connecting the autobox's wiring are likely candidates.

Credit to Hippo for this comment: "Connectors below. Look down the side of the battery, behind the head lamp and you'll see them. They twist to secure together."

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What happens when the dash display warning lamps illuminate? Does your Freelander continue to drive forwards or loose power?

Your auto gearbox computer uses information from the abs module. If you have a can bus error on the abs module then this is a problem. The information is collected via the can bus.

Do all 4x abs sensors read correctly?
 
Hi, thank you @Jayridium but barrel are not fault in my case - they close with click, stick together correctly. I've checked also resistance on the gearbox wiring ecu - test went fine. I don't have intermediate speed sensor though in my version of the car.

What happens when the dash display warning lamps illuminate? Does your Freelander continue to drive forwards or loose power?

Your auto gearbox computer uses information from the abs module. If you have a can bus error on the abs module then this is a problem. The information is collected via the can bus.

Do all 4x abs sensors read correctly?

I guess I do not feel difference after error lights comes in, engine is still in attainment mode as it were just repaired, so I'm trying no to pass 3000 rpms (but he's able to). Every gear works, reverse works.

Here are readings from my ABS sensors, they all looks fine (the car was raised on a lift). As told - looks like I were:



As told, one of the mechanics told that errors appeared after he changed CV Joints. I've purchased them again, to be sure they don't block ABS sensors from reading and I saw that new ones have slighty different design. I have also found my first CV joints, and looks like they were having same design as these on the left

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I'm attaching pictures, my current CV Joints are same like on the picture 2 (abs ring needed to be removed), when I were having these from picture 1, abs were engaging all the time. My first CV Joints were also same design as in picture 1 though...

QUjRYBM.jpg


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A 2005 vehicle uses magnets in the wheel bearings to operate the Abs sensors so the ring with slots is not needed but they will be fine.
The picture 1 looks to be for a different vehicle altogether as it has no thread for the nut holding the bearings!!
 
If you have an ABS light on, where the ABS ECU is reporting failure of the sensors, the it's also very likely that the transmission TCM (gearbox ECU) could also show a F4 error. If there is F4 on the dashboard, then the gearbox will be stuck in 4th for forwards direction, and reverse will likely be available too.
Before you investigate any F4 errors, you need to cure whatever is causing ABS errors, as the 2 could well be linked. ;)
 
If you have an ABS light on, where the ABS ECU is reporting failure of the sensors, the it's also very likely that the transmission TCM (gearbox ECU) could also show a F4 error. If there is F4 on the dashboard, then the gearbox will be stuck in 4th for forwards direction, and reverse will likely be available too.
Before you investigate any F4 errors, you need to cure whatever is causing ABS errors, as the 2 could well be linked. ;)

Yes, but I got all gears forward (at least till 4th one), as well even sport mode looks working, because after switching for it, gearbox uses higher rpm than in "D". I'm assuming that my error comes from ABS system. But if Mechanic installed incorrect CV Joints, I've installed proper ones, ABS sensors works, what it could be else? From my electronic knowledge my old design brake pedal sensor is working fine after cleaning, but I'll install new anyway (I guess today it'll arrive).

ABS module itseft looks like is also working, because on old CV Joints were engaging all the time.

Maybe it's this G sensor? On the movie it showed from moment reading from 0 to 10, but I don't know it's scale, how reading should be during stop. Does anybody know how to test it?
 
Mechanic installed incorrect CV Joints, I've installed proper ones, ABS sensors works, what it could be else?

The CV joint won't be the problem, as an 05 uses magnetic bearings, instead of the older design reluctor rings.

Has it had new wheel bearings, and were they,

A: the correct type and

B: fitted the correct way round?

If however you get the ABS light from starting, without moving the vehicle, the it could be sensors.
 
The CV joint won't be the problem, as an 05 uses magnetic bearings, instead of the older design reluctor rings.

Has it had new wheel bearings, and were they,

A: the correct type and

B: fitted the correct way round?

If however you get the ABS light from starting, without moving the vehicle, the it could be sensors.
I believe bearings were not touched. They were little dirty though, mechanic who did put last cv-joints didn't cleaned them up. I'm really tired with the mechanics here... If it'll be necessary, I'll open wheels again myself, but it takes time, as I don't have big lift, just hand ones.

Abs/HDC/TC/4F errors appear after reaching 40 km/h. They dissapear after off/on, reaching 5km, and they appear again when I reach 40km/h
 
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Could be that the wrong driveshaft damaged the abs sensors and affected the air gap so that at speed they give the wrong data??
 
Old driveshaft were not touching them, as it were big space, around 8mm between sensor and driveshaft. New driveshaft is almost touching abs sensor. But computer shows that all sensors are giving correct readings... (same speed) shown at post #4
 
We need to break up the problem by testing different parts of the car to see what is working.

If you drive on grass or a loose surface at 20 to 25kph and brake hard to skid, does the ABS activate? You will see lamps illuminate on the dash display and feel pulses through the brake pedal when the ABS activates. This will test your ABS to see if it can work. The lamps should go off when ABS has stopped activating.

Does it display F4 flashing on the dash display when the fault occurs at 40kph? If so then the gearbox will select 4th and go into limp mode. This is to protect the gearbox because 1 or more faults are present.

Can you:
1. Start the engine
2. Select Drive, then move the gear lever right and backwards, to select manual 1 gear.
3. Then drive forwards
4. Manually push the gear lever forwards as you go faster, to change up to the next gear.
5. Keep changing up gears as you go faster as soon as you can, to see if you can use 1 2 3 4 and 5, before the fault occurs. Your dash display will tell you what gear is selected. You will also see the engine revolution display change slightly during each gear change.
6. When manually changing gears, when does the fault happen? When you change from 3 to 4, or 4 to 5?

The above test will confirm if all 5 forward gears work. It will also confirm when the fault occurs, during a gear change or when traveling in gear after 10 seconds, for example.

Does the vehicle km number display count up correctly?

Does the vehicle speed and engine revolution display on the dash work ok when driving?
 
wow, I guess I've forgot what forums are, that you can find helpful people :) Thanks for this instruction, I've proceed with this on today, and let know!

Btw. I got new brake switch, but ordered without harness. Does harness got any resistor on it, or it's just wires so I can connect myself? Harness is unavailable here, and ordering new one is 1,5 months of waiting.
 
Unfortunately, I've ordered new design 4 pin switch, old have 3 pins.

Yesterday I were trying to connect it using wire alignment that I saw in internet, and my problem changed.

I burned brake light fuse, after putting new one, and old switch, my brake light works. But I got TC and HDC lights all the time now.

After reaching 40 km/h - I get all other ones - ABS, F4 and handbrake.

I can switch gears manually, it worked till 3rd - after I've reached 40km and get errors and don't see gears anymore.

My ABS works till 40km/h - after - no.
 
Did you order brake switch XKB500120?

If so then the new switch has a different plastic connector. You will need the YMQ503280 wiring harness to convert form the existing wiring harness connector, to the new switch.

Theres no electronics involved. Its just a wiring harness with two different connectors. One at each end.

I will check these part numbers using old receipts from what I purchased years ago, but I'm certain they're correct.
 
Ok, I left this new brake switch as my old one looks working after cleaning - brake lights works.

Till last time I've checked - gearbox cable that goes from gearbox ECU till barrels - looks fine.

I've cleaned all ground cables, including this on gearbox, aswell sanded with sandpaper for better connection.

I've fixed 2 wires - alternator's one, and one coming to the sensor at the top of the engine block.

After fixing alternator cable my abs is engaging all the time, till 40km/h. After error comes in, and it's off.

I've also slightly adjusted gearbox selector cable - no result on F4 error.
 
I left this new brake switch as my old one looks working after cleaning - brake lights works.
There are 2 switches in the brake light switch assembly. One switch is for the brake lights and to tell the ECU that the brakes are on. The other switch works in reverse to the brake light switch, so switches off as the brake lights come on. Both these switches need to work, or an error will come up on the ABS system.
I've fixed 2 wires - alternator's one, and one coming to the sensor at the top of the engine block.
What were the wires for? Engine sensor errors (broken wires) normally put the engine warning light on. Can you post pictures of the items with broken wires?
 
Did you order brake switch XKB500120?

Yes

Theres no electronics involved. Its just a wiring harness with two different connectors. One at each end.

Problem is I don't have quick access to the harness, which cost get sky high anyway. If there are only wires, I can connect them myself. I've tried following combination, but switch didn't worked like that (I'm attaching below).

Can you:
1. Start the engine
2. Select Drive, then move the gear lever right and backwards, to select manual 1 gear.
3. Then drive forwards
4. Manually push the gear lever forwards as you go faster, to change up to the next gear.
5. Keep changing up gears as you go faster as soon as you can, to see if you can use 1 2 3 4 and 5, before the fault occurs. Your dash display will tell you what gear is selected. You will also see the engine revolution display change slightly during each gear change.
6. When manually changing gears, when does the fault happen? When you change from 3 to 4, or 4 to 5?

I believe my problem is fully electrical, as gearbox even of F4 mode is working fine! In sport mode they go till 3rd, then I've reach 40km/h and error comes in. After I feel like all gears come in, it's just lazy, additionally I got 600km more of engine break in, so I don't rev it much either.

Does the vehicle km number display count up correctly?

Yes

Does the vehicle speed and engine revolution display on the dash work ok when driving?

Yes

There are 2 switches in the brake light switch assembly. One switch is for the brake lights and to tell the ECU that the brakes are on. The other switch works in reverse to the brake light switch, so switches off as the brake lights come on. Both these switches need to work, or an error will come up on the ABS system.

Yes, when I were cleaning it I saw it. I believe they work both fine, as they remain clean now, but better would be if I'd connect new sensor

What were the wires for? Engine sensor errors (broken wires) normally put the engine warning light on. Can you post pictures of the items with broken wires?

That were Engine Coolant Temperature sensor



Here's the wires combination that I were using, but none of them work.

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