Extended pick up cab

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dazzx10r

Active Member
Posts
329
Location
Rotherham
As anyone who's driven a defender pick up knows, the cab is somewhat cramped as standard, and after fitting aftermarket seats it's even worse. I'm not exactly tall at 5'5" but even I was dissapionted with the space available after fitting my truck cab, so I decided to do something about it. I have seen quite a few extended cab conversions knocking around and there seems to be a few ways of doing it, using a cut down van back or extending the truck cab. I had the opportunity to do it either way has I still had my van back, but I preffered the rounded look of the truck cab. I started by removing the cab and moving the bulkhead back by 120mm, rather that cut all of the bulkhead out I cut the top half out cutting along the lower seam and using a length of aluminium angle I made a shelve accross the rear. I then cut off the front couple of inches of my truck cab roof and then cut the front of my van roof making the new roof 120mm longer, this was then rivetted together using a 4" strip of ally. I then filled and sanded the out roof. To make sure it was water tight I fibreglassed the whole of the inside of the roof, I then sanded this down and painted it.
For the side pieces I simply cut 120mm from the front edge of my old van sides and using a piece ally I rivetted it to the truck cab. I'm quite please with how it's turned out, and I will be trimming the inside as soon as my trimming carpet comes. What do you think?
 

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I don't understand the space restriction bit - is a truck cab worse than a standard Defender? My Series 2A is a truck cab and I have no trouble driving that.
 
I don't understand the space restriction bit - is a truck cab worse than a standard Defender? My Series 2A is a truck cab and I have no trouble driving that.

I'm not sure if there's any difference between a series and a 90, but with the truck cab on my seat back would hit the rear of the cab window and the bulkhead was about 4" away from the middle of the back of my seat, so I could'nt get the full adjustment of the seat and was driving almost bolt upright. Now my seat goes back another 4 1/2" so there's loads more room and my seat is'nt rubbing agaisnt the cab window.:) I have seen an extended cab that was 200mm longer than std, but when you looked at it from side on it looked out of proportion from the front wing to the rear tub, if you catch my drift.
 
To be fair, I've only got standard seats in my Series - there's absolutely no adjustment, you just sit on them! I guess the non-standard seats you've fitted will also have an impact on the available space.
 
i know this is a google based thread resurrection...
but better than starting a new thread on a topic thats well beaten to get told to use the search function...

anyway... any pics of how the roof has been done? and a close up from the outside?
what kills these conversions for me is the **** poor roof bodgery normally seen but these two examples look great! any hints or tips will be greatly recieved.
 
i know this is a google based thread resurrection...
but better than starting a new thread on a topic thats well beaten to get told to use the search function...

anyway... any pics of how the roof has been done? and a close up from the outside?
what kills these conversions for me is the **** poor roof bodgery normally seen but these two examples look great! any hints or tips will be greatly recieved.

loose 4 stone then you will fit in the cab:rolleyes::behindsofa:
 
Buy a truck cab roof and a 90 van roof cut the van roof about 18" shorter than it needs to be, then cut the back of the truckcab roof so it overlaps the van roof by about 50mm Try an get someone to put a flat swage in the truckcab roof. So the two halves sit flush with each other. fit a reinforcing strip of some description on the underside of the roof. Ensuring that it follows the curve of the roof and exits into the internal roof gutter. tiger seal and Pop rivet the two together. Use Blind "tophat" rivets or even cold rivets. as this will prevent leaks. and in the event of any leaks the Reinforcing strip will act a drainage channel to divert water into the internal gutter.


Good luck..
 
loose 4 stone then you will fit in the cab:rolleyes::behindsofa:

unless those four stone are me legs and right arm i doubt itl make much odds lol

Buy a truck cab roof and a 90 van roof cut the van roof about 18" shorter than it needs to be, then cut the back of the truckcab roof so it overlaps the van roof by about 50mm Try an get someone to put a flat swage in the truckcab roof. So the two halves sit flush with each other. fit a reinforcing strip of some description on the underside of the roof. Ensuring that it follows the curve of the roof and exits into the internal roof gutter. tiger seal and Pop rivet the two together. Use Blind "tophat" rivets or even cold rivets. as this will prevent leaks. and in the event of any leaks the Reinforcing strip will act a drainage channel to divert water into the internal gutter.


Good luck..

Redhand thanks for a sensible prompt reply... seems a good way to go about it just the swage might be an issue.
will have to read that a couple more times and let it all digest though haha
 
Sorry to resurrect this but had something to contribute as looking to do this myself

Foley do a kit for 1500 bash. Includes the Extension plates and new roof. For me it's the actual seat that needs to slide back (bucket seats) not tilt so I need to mod the bulkhead... Which is where I'm stuck.

Anyway, hope this is of use to the OP or someone else..

Ta

Cab Extension Kit | UK Land Rover Experts
 
im glad you brought this back to life as i was looking for redhand's post! lol

for more pics and suggestions see the thread i started recently on the hunt for the post above haha

in australia LR do king cabs for utility company land rovers and thats the kind of king cab im after... the foley one is very expensive for little gain
 
im glad you brought this back to life as i was looking for redhand's post! lol

for more pics and suggestions see the thread i started recently on the hunt for the post above haha

in australia LR do king cabs for utility company land rovers and thats the kind of king cab im after... the foley one is very expensive for little gain

Your welcome lol.

Yeh I thought it was expensive but to weld two roofs together without making it look frankenstine maybe beyond my skills. It also doesn't move the bulkhead so the seat can slide further back which is the issue for most tall people. I actually find I can't turn the wheel quickley enough without putting my elbow through the window or in the center passengers face
 
Your welcome lol.

Yeh I thought it was expensive but to weld two roofs together without making it look frankenstine maybe beyond my skills. It also doesn't move the bulkhead so the seat can slide further back which is the issue for most tall people. I actually find I can't turn the wheel quickley enough without putting my elbow through the window or in the center passengers face

theres your issue... the centre passenger... once i removed them i was fine! lol i found feeding the wheel the only way to drive three up!

My plan is king cab and flat floor
move the passenger and drivers seats inboard an inch or two
disco handbrake lever
then mud rails under my recarros

should see me sitting comfy!
 
theres your issue... the centre passenger... once i removed them i was fine! lol i found feeding the wheel the only way to drive three up!

My plan is king cab and flat floor
move the passenger and drivers seats inboard an inch or two
disco handbrake lever
then mud rails under my recarros

should see me sitting comfy!

Yeh that and the drivers window/my knees. Have to feed the wheel like a 1990s driving lesson
 
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