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Engine rebuild thread

Discussion in 'General Land Rover Forum' started by payydg, Nov 19, 2018.

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  1. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Slightly bent the oil feed pipe to the turbo when fitting. Only slightly and not obviously distorted on the outside. I’ll check to see if oils flowing through it when I fire her up but what do you guys think? Just replace it? Don’t want to bugger my nice new refurbed turbo
     
  2. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Well-Known Member

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    Picture?
    The 300Tdi has flexi hoses.
     
  3. boguing

    boguing Well-Known Member

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    If it really was slight and there was no sharp kink I wouldn't worry about it at all.
     
  4. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Here’s a pic.

    CD92E877-B10E-4296-807F-CB2BCDA46E21.jpeg
     
  5. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Also I’ve helpfully forgotten how the oil pipes attach to the bolt that comes out of the manifold. Anyone remember? The thin one has a bracket the goes over it but the fat one has a bracket that doesn’t fit. Unless the bolt goes through it to bolt it to the manifold.
     
  6. boguing

    boguing Well-Known Member

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    LR won'y have
    If you didn't bend it any more than LR did when they made it then there's nothing to worry about. It's the hard kinks that are a problem.
     
  7. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Very minor bend. Ok cool. Will see how it goes.
     
  8. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Well-Known Member

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  9. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    I did say it was 'slight' :). Paranoia I think.
     
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  10. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    You guys are going to laugh at me for this but I’ve got it into my head that I put the clutch plate the wrong way round (don’t ask). I don’t see how I would have done as I just follow the manual. Anyhow this project has turned me into an anxious mess.

    Did a test last night. In reverse it won’t roll forward and then put foot on clutch it rolls forward fine. I’m assuming if it was the wrong way round he clutch wouldn’t function normally? JM has given some reassurance on this but anyone have any thoughts? Other than I should probably see a psychiatrist?
     
  11. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Well-Known Member

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    Perfectly normal.
    I was super careful with everything I did throughout the Landy rebuild and the engine rebuild. I still doubted myself about things. Did I torque every big end nut? :eek: Did I offset the piston rings properly :eek: There are others! :rolleyes: The piston ring thing keeps popping in to my head because my engine is using too much oil.
    I think it's perfectly natural. Taking pictures is a good way of showing how things have gone together. Doesn't help with torque values though!
     
  12. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Glad someone else suffers the same. The clutch disengages so probably fine. Biting point is low but its had a new block, new clutch and pressure plate, new slave cylinder and new clutch fork so not surprising it isn't exactly as before.
     
  13. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Well-Known Member

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    Probably better low than high. Presume you've checked you haven't bolted the slave in upside down, with the bleed nipple at the bottom?
     
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  14. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know which wire goes to FIP. There’s a white one and a white one with brown markers. One goes to FIP and one to oil pressure sensor
     
  15. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    Dunno.
    If your battery is on? One wire has 12vdc with ign on.(FIP)
    The other doesn't.(oil).
     
  16. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Batteries aren’t in yet. Was hoping for a quick fix! I’ll test it once all set up
     
  17. windy81

    windy81 Active Member

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    white = fip if that is i remember correctly.
     
  18. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Helpfully they're both white but one has brown markers
     
  19. windy81

    windy81 Active Member

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    lol, wasn't much help then.
     
  20. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    All input appreciated!
     
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