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Engine rebuild thread

Discussion in 'General Land Rover Forum' started by payydg, Nov 19, 2018.

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  1. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Going to strip and rebuild my 200tdi. I’m in two minds about having the block professionally rebuilt or do it myself. Either way this is more for me to ask questions and of course post photos.

    Lesson no. 1 - a 300kg trolley from B&Q will crumple like a tin can when trying to shift an engine down a garden path.

    More to follow.
     

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    BuzzLand likes this.
  2. goonarmy

    goonarmy Annoyed by new forum LZIR Despatch Agent

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    That should have taken that weight.
     
  3. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    I think it was the set of steps that signalled the end for that particular trolley. Still I recon I can hammer it out for when I put it back in.
     
  4. goonarmy

    goonarmy Annoyed by new forum LZIR Despatch Agent

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    Well may be don't eviel kinievel it on the way back
     
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  5. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know the tread size and width for the injectors on a 200tdi? Need to have an adapter for my slide hammer made.
     
  6. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    put a adjustable spanner on the flats of the injector and twist clockwise
     
  7. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Don’t you need a slide hammer to get them out?
     
  8. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    some just wont come out without destroying them or the head ,usually the method i suggested works you can rock back and forth but undo in a clockwise direction otherwise the injector will unscrew itself
     
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  9. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Ok thanks. Will give it a go. Tho do you know the thread size? Would be nice to have an adapter
     
  10. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    not off hand , ive never needed to use a slide hammer on a tdi injector
     
  11. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Thanks James, I’ll see how I get on with the JM method.
     
  12. Retroanaconda

    Retroanaconda Well-Known Member

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    Just avoid using the spanner where the banjo bolt for the leak-off pipes goes in. This area needs to be flat for the washers to seal properly and levering the injector about with a spanner could damage the sealing faces if not carefully done.
     
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  13. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    So how the devil do you attach an engine stand to the back of this. Flywheel housing removed.
     

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  14. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    via 4 of the 6 flywheel housing bolt holes and suitable length 10mm bolts,youd need to raise it with the engine crane
     
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  15. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Also do I need to lock the fuel pump before removing if stripping the whole thing down?
     

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  16. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    you dont need to mark the pulleys or lock the pump unless you slacken the large nut,which you dont need to just the 3 bolts
     
  17. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Great thanks!
     
  18. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    How do you get the timing gears and pulley off?

    Got the injector pump and gear out.

    The pulley looks like it’ll just come out after taking the bolt out.

    How do you get the crank and cam shaft gears off?

    Also, I can’t seem to budge the engine ‘breather’ housing - bolts are out but seems totally stuck? 14A7B17E-CCC9-4AF0-9B60-B7D59CA26DC6.png 5442F28E-7D89-4A61-9403-B8C40D95D3C7.jpeg
     
  19. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    Bolts are still in in your pic.
    When the bolts are out tap it with a mallet or block of wood.
    Lots of components stick to each other where there is a gasket or sealent.
     
  20. payydg

    payydg Well-Known Member

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    Yeh that’s just a pick. Bolts out and I’ve given it a fair wack with a soft mallet.
     
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