Engine broken care to have a guess

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Broke in exactly same place on my 2.7 block all checked out by machine shop A ok wouldn't bother measuring con rods on either side of break just replace i wonder how many tdv6 have been scrapped as a matter of fact without looking, also pistons in same unmarked condition at 140k, at the end of the day a machine shop will do all the measuring etc so you only need your spanners
 
use a decent quality material, you mean?

Yes and no, if you look at other v6 engine cranks (audi for example) they also have the small cross section between crank journals, and they do not break all the time.

There is a company that specialises in repairing the 3.0 v6, and I have read of some of their engines making 35k then going pop again.
 
Yes and no, if you look at other v6 engine cranks (audi for example) they also have the small cross section between crank journals, and they do not break all the time.

There is a company that specialises in repairing the 3.0 v6, and I have read of some of their engines making 35k then going pop again.
then the engine is pushing too much energy into the piston and it breaks the crank?
 
Ford or their crank manufacturer got something wrong ford can produce cars with phenomenal HP they don't all break cranks, our German buddy is probably right about manufacture and or hardening process to add another turbo in the D4 or XF without resolving this issue was asking for trouble but will be running mine on 10w 40 as i can see the logic in the argument if this was part of the issue would LR tell everyone to change, wouldn't this be admitting liability,
 
Ford or their crank manufacturer got something wrong ford can produce cars with phenomenal HP they don't all break cranks, our German buddy is probably right about manufacture and or hardening process to add another turbo in the D4 or XF without resolving this issue was asking for trouble but will be running mine on 10w 40 as i can see the logic in the argument if this was part of the issue would LR tell everyone to change, wouldn't this be admitting liability,
How would changing oil viscosity help prevent this?
 
then the engine is pushing too much energy into the piston and it breaks the crank?
There are companies making cranks for td6 in china that claim that there turn the crank instead of forging it and this makes it a lot stronger, you would have thought that ford would have got hold of some of them, tested them and if they where stronger would change the way they made there's, but knowing car companies if it cost more to build that way they would not be interested in changing it
 
There are companies making cranks for td6 in china that claim that there turn the crank instead of forging it and this makes it a lot stronger, you would have thought that ford would have got hold of some of them, tested them and if they where stronger would change the way they made there's, but knowing car companies if it cost more to build that way they would not be interested in changing it
Think that's the difference between the diesel vs petrol 2286 engine, you could convert a diesel to petrol but not the other way around.. or summat like that
 
10w 40 is that bit thicker more protection at high temperature 10w 30 always seems pizz thin even when changed after less than 5000 miles not sure its the answer though my Norton runs different viscosity's for summer and winter the German fellas right about what oils were available at the time, not sure its a problem solver but can see the logic, best to ask @gstuart about the ins and outs of the oil debate, Billet cranks are available for the 306dt billet cranks are definitely stronger and would probably be the way to go but at 3 or 4 times the cost
 
Ford or their crank manufacturer got something wrong ford can produce cars with phenomenal HP they don't all break cranks, our German buddy is probably right about manufacture and or hardening process to add another turbo in the D4 or XF without resolving this issue was asking for trouble but will be running mine on 10w 40 as i can see the logic in the argument if this was part of the issue would LR tell everyone to change, wouldn't this be admitting liability,
The 3 L twin turbo engine went to a single turbo when the euro six models came out on a 65 plate onwards.
I am led to believe they still break cranks, even in the discovery five model and range Rover fitted with the same engine.
 
10w 40 is that bit thicker more protection at high temperature 10w 30 always seems pizz thin even when changed after less than 5000 miles not sure its the answer though my Norton runs different viscosity's for summer and winter the German fellas right about what oils were available at the time, not sure its a problem solver but can see the logic, best to ask @gstuart about the ins and outs of the oil debate, Billet cranks are available for the 306dt billet cranks are definitely stronger and would probably be the way to go but at 3 or 4 times the cost
Is a Chinese billet crank better than the normal one made by ford? You would hope because is is such a big problem for land rover they would get the strongest option into there cars
 
You would hope so, billet is stronger just a question of manufacture but wouldn't any major modification be admitting an issue, I don't think LR ever admitted a problem I am looking for a D4 spares or repair when my D3 is out of my shed and am considering a billet crank as part of the build. Someone has to bite the bullet LOL will be pulling a 306dt (cam belt snapped) out of an xf as my next project bought for the engine but the car is so nice may put it back but will get the crank crack tested
 
Years ago when GM were a car company, they mad a range of V6 engines, good ones as well. Just keep on top of cam belts.

They were fitted to luxury cars, however to save 24p they fitted rubbish valve seals.

Mine was too old to demand money towards repair, it had been tried.

24p on a car, yet happy to put up with owner complaints.

None of the major car producers are better.
 
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