Engine broken care to have a guess

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Nothing is cheap cheap now days even me tea bags looking at a replacement motor 6 grand plus, if the blocks usable is the key can (not always) be re-built for a fraction I have a 2.7 that broke the crank with no damage to the block so you can be lucky I think he said it broke on start up or stopped so he may get lucky when you buy a used motor you still don't really know its history or what you might find inside so i prefer to re-build but to me is a hobby and I only charge myself tea and biscuits
 
Just looked at this from the Citreon C6 manual ref the oil spec , including the note at the bottom of the page ,

(*) In the winter season, on HDi engines, it is recommended to use 5W40 oil instead of 10W40 oil, this to enhance starting from cold.

(**) Do not use 5W30 oil on HDi engines with particle filter (FAP).

CITROEN C6 oil specs




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Just looked at this from the C6 manual ref the oil spec , including he note at the bottom of the page ,

(*) In the winter season, on HDi engines, it is recommended to use 5W40 oil instead of 10W40 oil, this to enhance starting from cold.

(**) Do not use 5W30 oil on HDi engines with particle filter (FAP).


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D4 will have a dpf, so will need a C class oil, C is for cat or in this case DPF.

Again think D4 is 5/30 and certainly not 10/40.

You sure that oil chart is for a disco, or some random french car hence the hdi designation?
 
D4 will have a dpf, so will need a C class oil, C is for cat or in this case DPF.

Again think D4 is 5/30 and certainly not 10/40.

You sure that oil chart is for a disco, or some random french car hence the hdi designation?

sorry mate I’ve just made it a bit clearer as it’s from a Citreon C6 , just found it interesting

thks again as always
 
sorry mate I’ve just made it a bit clearer as it’s from a Citreon C6 , just found it interesting

thks again as always
This guy (on another video) came up with the idea that Land rover td6 only has a oil spec of 5/30 as land rover asked if it could be run on that and not what would be the best oil for that engine; it would be good to get him on here, but he is upset by what people say on face book so do not think he would last long on here
 
This guy (on another video) came up with the idea that Land rover td6 only has a oil spec of 5/30 as land rover asked if it could be run on that and not what would be the best oil for that engine; it would be good to get him on here, but he is upset by what people say on face book so do not think he would last long on here
It's all about emissions and mpg, not what's best for the engine. That's exactly why they say 5w30 for the rover v8 o_O
 
This guy (on another video) came up with the idea that Land rover td6 only has a oil spec of 5/30 as land rover asked if it could be run on that and not what would be the best oil for that engine; it would be good to get him on here, but he is upset by what people say on face book so do not think he would last long on here
I should think he is probably right about that, although I know nothing about td6.

Modern manufacturers want the best fuel economy figures they can get to use in their marketing.

And thinner oil uses less energy to stir up and pump around the engine. so uses less fuel.
 
I should think he is probably right about that, although I know nothing about td6.

Modern manufacturers want the best fuel economy figures they can get to use in their marketing.

And thinner oil uses less energy to stir up and pump around the engine. so uses less fuel.
Less viscosity, less friction between moving parts
 
Less viscosity, less friction between moving parts
Not 100% about that, the moving parts shouldn't actually touch when moving, they are floating on a thin film of the pressurised oil.
Not saying you are wrong, just that I don't know.

What I do know is that actually pumping the oil around the engine takes a surprising amount of energy.
Last year, I changed the oil in the Series from 10/40 to 20/50, partly because of the very hot weather last year, but also because I got a good deal on the 20/50.
During a recent cold start on a bitterly cold day, I was surprised by how sluggish cranking speed has become.
I know it is the oil, because once the engine is up to temperature, it spins over at normal speed if you switch off and restart.
 
I think it is quite simple, modern engines are built to such fine tolerances they can use thinner and thinner oils, think some of the small fords use 0w20 oil, and they wont be the only ones.
Modern oils are an art form, and engines can be very specific on what they require, this alone would put me off going thicker on the tdv6.

Just take a look at the ACEA specs and the C class alone has 5 very similar sounding oils but different nevertheless, and they are different for a reason.
This will send you to sleep!
C: Catalyst compatibility oils
Note: These Oils will increase the DPF/GPF and TWC life and maintain the Vehicle’s Fuel Economy.
Warning: Some of these Categories may be unsuitable for use in certain Engine Types – consult the vehicle- OEM’s owner’s manual/handbook in case of doubt.

ACEA C1 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Lowest SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 mPa*s.

ACEA C2 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 mPa*s.

ACEA C3 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s.

ACEA C4 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Low SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s.

ACEA C5 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, for further improved Fuel Economy, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable and OEM-approved for use of Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s.
 
ACEA C5 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, for further improved Fuel Economy, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable and OEM-approved for use of Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s.
Does that mean that there are some engines that are designed to be incapable?

And what should I use if I have one of those? :confused::D
 
Not 100% about that, the moving parts shouldn't actually touch when moving, they are floating on a thin film of the pressurised oil.
Not saying you are wrong, just that I don't know.

What I do know is that actually pumping the oil around the engine takes a surprising amount of energy.
Last year, I changed the oil in the Series from 10/40 to 20/50, partly because of the very hot weather last year, but also because I got a good deal on the 20/50.
During a recent cold start on a bitterly cold day, I was surprised by how sluggish cranking speed has become.
I know it is the oil, because once the engine is up to temperature, it spins over at normal speed if you switch off and restart.
You're right, imagine it this way.. pour some water on the kitchen worktop, them slide a glass across it.. then do the same with treacle.
Ok, bad example as neither are good lubricants, but you get the idea, in the same engine where only the oil is different
 
Talking about engines and tight tolerances I once heard that F1 engines are virtually seized when cold and won’t turn over until the oil and block is warmed up to then allow them to start due to the extreme tolerances

of course that may be total bull and with me not having that kind of knowledge that many of u have its well above my pay grade

plus might as well throw in another daft question so only get bits thrown at me once, lol

We’re glow plugs also part to reduce emissions plse

right, am now going to take cover , lmao o_Oo_O
 
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