Engine bogs down and stalls when warm

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paulcottam

paulcottam

New Member
Posts
8
Location
Chesterfield
I have a rover V8 3.5 ltr fitted with solex CD175 carbs I had no previous knowledge of the engine and bought it some years ago as a runner

I put it into my lightweight and did a compression test to make sure the engine is ok before taking further everything was fine with this test

The engine starts and runs easily on choke and there are no bad sounds in fact it runs well with good oils pressure etc but once the engine warms up it’s starts to struggle and if you apply throttle it bogs down and stalls out and is difficult to start until cold

Thing I have done so far to sort this are
Changed to electronic ignition and matched coil dizzy cap rotor arm and plugs etc .
Fitted facet low pressure electronic fuel pump and filter the one specified for the V8 and fitted return to tank pipe .
I have stripped down the carbs to float chambers and cleaned out checked diaphragms and choke mechanism etc.
Checked the coolant outlet on the carb tower to make sure water is flowing through to avoid fuel evaporation .
I have fitted a ht spark indicator and see through fuel filter so I can see there is a good spark and fuel supply as I run the engine there is a good spark and fuel supply in the filter .

The engine still has the same symptoms it feels like a fuel issue but for the life of me I cannot think of where to go now
The pipes that come out of the rear inlet manifold are connected together in a u shape return pipe as this is a competition vehicle there is no heater

I am at a loss what else to do with it now any suggestions appreciated
 
Was there a ballast resistor fitted prior to dizzy change I had to remove one as coil for electronic is different rating...
 
I'd start with he basic settings of the carbs, first. Is the needle fitted correctly, is the jet height set properly, is the float height correct, dash pot etc etc.

Have the carbs been apart?
 
Henry_b said:
I'd start with he basic settings of the carbs, first. Is the needle fitted correctly, is the jet height set properly, is the float height correct, dash pot etc etc.

Have the carbs been apart?
Click to expand...
Only to clean out float chamber and to check diaphragms because of this issue i have put another set of the same type carbs on from an old battered trialer and it runs ok with these so must be something to do with the carbs will have to find a guide and have a go at setting them up properly
 
paulcottam said:
Only to clean out float chamber and to check diaphragms because of this issue i have put another set of the same type carbs on from an old battered trialer and it runs ok with these so must be something to do with the carbs will have to find a guide and have a go at setting them up properly
Click to expand...
In that case it looks as if you just have to copy everything off the other carbs, i.e.jet sizes, needle profiles, mounting positions of both jets and needles etc.
Sounds to me like the carb is running rich so maybe the jets are too big. I don't know enough about Solex/Strombergs as they are not my favourites but the numbers of the jets may be marked on them somewhere. Failing that, there may be a way, with a thin but conical needle, like one out of an SU, to measure the sizes.
Could waffle on about this for ages, but also, quite simply, have the jets got worn?
 
As the other guys have said above, this is most likely a carb issue...but

1. have you checked peak fuel flow rate and pressure of the Facet? they're great pumps but do need to be carefully match spec'd to the application, it's no good throwing in a Blue Top Fast Road jobbie when a Silver Top is required. For the Rover 3.5 V8 it's normally best for a Red Top and balancing fuel flow/pressure with a Filter King regulator.
2. A proper rebuild of the carbs is always the best route
3. You could have fuel line blockage so with carbs and fuel pump out, clear the fuel lines
4. The SimonBBC ignition kits are very good but that kit's for a 4cyl engine, not an 8cyl engine o_O have a chat with SiminBBC to see if the kit can be used for both, they're tech support is very good.
5. check mechanical timing off cyl #1 tdc [front right bank] - the RV8's are very forgiving on timing but should be set up using a strobe with dwell setting + be sure the ign leads are in the right order, it's really easy to swap one or two over.

ps the RV8 needs two additional inline fuel filters, 1. before the pump, and 2. before the carbs. Ignore the crappy filter inside the pump. A Filter King with glass bowl filter and regulator point is always ideal for any RV8
 
Did you get this sorted? I’d love to know as mine was running perfect, I needed a new alternator and the fella that fitted it also said he tidyd up the wires behind the dash, ect as mine is a tray back with a mish mash of parts from various models

It fires up on the button runs perfect until the engine is warm and then sounds poorly and will stall, when it’s cool it’s perfect again
 
This is a bit of an old thread now but one thing strikes me.
I had a similar problem for quite a while until I realised there was a load of water in the fuel tank.
Once that was cleared out the car ran like a dream.
Also Strombergs were only fitted as it was felt that off-roading would not be commensurate with the normal, and better, SUs
Best of luck mate!:):):).
 
Hi, i know this is an old thread, but it would be good to know if the problem got sorted or not.
I have a V8 90 and many years ago, it would suffer with a gradual lack of power then it would cut out and not start for at least 30 mins.
I eventually traced the fault back to the little tea bag filter on the end of the fuel sender pick up, the filter was collapsing in on its self and would eventually
block the flow of fuel to the engine. It would then (once the engine had stopped) gradually expand back to its original shape and then the engine would start
again. I cured this by removing the little filter and placed a small spring inside of it top stop it collapsing, and touch wood 12 years on its still ok.
 
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