Electronic gremlins?

The remote fob doesn't need to be pressed to start the engine. There's a transponder in the key that senses the key is in the lock.
The tail window goes down when the battery is reconnected. You have to wind it up with the window switch on the centre console. The ignition will need to be on for the window to be wound up. Winding the window up will calculate it so it works correctly.

It is possible to fit heated seat's but you might need to add the wiring.

Sounds so simple when it works.

Let me clarify;

1. Somehow if I push the buttons on the fob in some sequence the engine starts.... but what is the sequence? And is there a reverse sequence to make it turn off?

2. The tailgate window will only respond to the battery being reconnected. Nothing else. I tried the recalibration sequence to no avail. I also swapped the switch to one I knew was operating but no go. Tuning the key in the tailgate will not do anything either. Motor tested fine on bench test.

3. Looking for a how to regarding install for the heated seats from anyone that had done the swap. I have the elements NOS coming in.

Thanks for the reply.... hope this makes more sense to the questions I am asking.

There's no sequence to press the buttons on the remote. Pressing isn't necessary as the key is detected by the transponder coil in the lock.

Nodge68 said:

There's no sequence to press the buttons on the remote. Pressing isn't necessary as the key is detected by the transponder coil in the lock.

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pressing the buttons might be enough to make contact on a broken circuit inside tho??

The Mad Hat Man said:

pressing the buttons might be enough to make contact on a broken circuit inside tho??

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I can't see that making a difference as the immobiliser transponder is in the key, not the 17TN fob. The fob simply sends a coded signal for the CCU to unlock the doors. You don't even need the 17TN fob to be in the car or even in the same country as the key contains the transponder chip.

Nodge68 said:

I can't see that making a difference as the immobiliser transponder is in the key, not the 17TN fob. The fob simply sends a coded signal for the CCU to unlock the doors. You don't even need the 17TN fob to be in the car or even in the same country as the key contains the transponder chip.

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not powered then?

The Mad Hat Man said:

not powered then?

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The fob is powered by a lithium battery but that is purely for the unlock the doors code to be transmitted. The actual immobilisation it done with a coded transponder in the key. This sends a code to the immobiliser ECU, allowing the engine to start. The door can be opened with the key and provide the key is in the ignition, the immobiliser will deactivate, allowing the engine to start. It's no different to how all modern car immobilisers work.

Nodge68 said:

The fob is powered by a lithium battery but that is purely for the unlock the doors code to be transmitted. The actual immobilisation it done with a coded transponder in the key. This sends a code to the immobiliser ECU, allowing the engine to start. The door can be opened with the key and provide the key is in the ignition, the immobiliser will deactivate, allowing the engine to start. It's no different to how all modern car immobilisers work.

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i was just thinking.... if the key needs to send a code, then it must be powered. it can only??? be powered by the fob battery???? if so then it could be a dry/broken joint.

I've not got a fob....Key only, so there's no power fir mine

Again to clarify. If I push the buttons on the remote somehow the engine starts as in remote start as in I'm inside my house with the fob and the car is outside on the driveway and suddenly it is idling. But I don't know what I did to the buttons to make it happen.

Tiny1000 said:

I've not got a fob....Key only, so there's no power fir mine

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screw that idea then

I think yours must have been modified in some way

The Mad Hat Man said:

i was just thinking.... if the key needs to send a code, then it must be powered. it can only??? be powered by the fob battery???? if so then it could be a dry/broken joint.

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A transponder needs no internal power source. The coil around the ignition key hole is provided with a pulsed current at about 400Hz iirc. This sets up an EMF in the coil in the transponder chip itself. This provides the power for the chip to transmit it's code back to the coil in the ignition and on to the immobiliser ECU. It works the same way that a pet ID tag works. They don't have batteries either, the power needed comes from the scanner

Tiny1000 said:

I think yours must have been modified in some way

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So it wasn't intended to have factory remote start? Oh fun times..... I wonder what else was augmented and maybe that's why my rear window is buggared.


The only gremlins I ever liked was the movie.

But this be what i should have expected from a $250 cdn ride.

silly point - but are you sure its the engine and not an FBH that is starting?

If the headlights turn on, idler is at just under 1k, exhaust is being emitted, and I can put it in gear (once i put the key in cylinder and turn to stage 2, if i turn it past to stage 3 the starter grinds) and drive away I am safe to assume yes somehow my factory lucas 17tn remote started my engine from 30' away. I just don't know how. And I can replicate it eventually by pushing the buttons on the fob but not sure the sequence it wants.

Ah I see, you have a remote start for the engine. Sorry I didn't understand what you ment. That's not a standard feature and with the factory wiring, simply can't happen by accident. The 17TN remote receiver and the starter aren't connected. Sounds like some kind of after factory modification but I've no idea of how that's been done.

dont forget its a canadian freelander.. nas spec?

The Mad Hat Man said:

dont forget its a canadian freelander.. nas spec?

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Remote start was never a factory option in any country as far as I know.
Maybe someone has hooked up the starter to the remote rear window? That would explain why the rear window doesn't work.