Electric Window question

Hi all. Just a quick one, hopefully.

Today, my electric windows in my 97 D1 started playing up.

On the centre console panel, the only switch that does anything is the from passenger. None of the others work at all and neither do the switches on the back door.

I have had a scan on the forum for solutions and as one window is not working I'm guessing it's not the fuse but wondered if should start with the ECU or the switches themselves.

Grateful for some guidance as to what to tinker with first.

Many thanks.

Could be either, I look inside the ECU first at the PCB, then it's off with the door cards to test the electrical supply and look at the regulators, an iffy reg will stop the window opening.

Tinker with the switch. My old D1 used to do the same thing now and then. I used to rock it back and forth till the window worked again. I surmise dirt or dust in the workings, but I never did get around to opening the switch to have a look...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/el...225992.html?highlight=Electric+window+problem

Take a look at the above thread, I gotta look at this same thing too when I have time my rear windows are intermittent.

Sorted. Cost....no pounds.

Tested switches, all ok.

Extracted ecu. Fidly but do-able eventually. Noticed dry joint exactly as suggested on a previous forum search. Re soldered, stuck ecu back in and job done. All windows working, except rear off side but as all switches on main panel working, gave the wires a wiggle that go into the back door and the rear switch then worked so obviously a loose wire in there somewhere.

At least I'm not driving about in a sauna anymore.

I was gonna crack on and investigate that temperamental wire in the back door but I live opposite a pub and it's sunny.........!

Another example of how helpful and useful Landyzone forum is for helping solve such problems. Especially for people like me with limited mechanical knowledge (and money).

Thanks again all.

Good to see Harry enjoy your pint or two... Or three or four

Done that circuit board job a min ago, it took longer to clear the crap out the glove box than to fix the board pointy nail scissors get the cover off the control unit well

Found a dry cracked joint of solder, resoldered it, plugged in and my back passengers no longer have reason to moan, happy days.

Completely agree with how helpful this forum is thanks all

Well after fixing this, I am wondering if I have caused another problem.

Is the central locking controlled by the same ECU as the windows?

Since I tinkered, when I lock vehicle with the fob, all doors lock but if I try to open door with the handle on the outside of the drivers door, everything else unlocks too.

This doesn't happen if I lock with the key and no remote so guessing it's something electrical.

If window ecu also controls locking I am guessing I have caused my own problem

Any thoughts.

Thanks.

No different ECU but as u say all doors are locked how do u open the drivers door with the handle? The drivers door must be unlocked don't u think.
So are u saying all doors but the drivers door doesn't lock?

Nope, I have a two button fob which has worked fine till now.

If I lock it with the fob all the door pins drop and secure the vehicle.

Then, if I pull on the drivers door handle from the outside, all the pins in all the doors pop up and the vehicle becomes unlocked. This only happens when I lock electronically.

If I central lock using the key in the drivers door, all doors lock but pulling the drivers door handle has no effect and the vehicle remains locked.

Confused.

Strange - but again the drivers door must be unlocked if u can just pull the handle and the door opens.
Without looking - I would suggest the the operating rod the attaches to the lock itself has become detached while the remaining rods from the central locking master actuator to the door pin, key barrel and external handle remain connected.

Hopefully all should come to light when u look in the door at the lock operation.

It's weird. It doesn't do it every time. Most times, if u pull the handle once, the pin can be seen to pop up so its definitely the action of the handle that is instigating the whole unlocking process.

Forgot to add, before I noticed it doing this, it went through a spell whereby if I pressed the fob to lock the vehicle, it would lock but all the pins would then pop up and unlock a split second after.

Ok, your last paragraph suggests that the master actuator requires a slight adjustment, loosen the screws and move the actuators mounting plate only a few millimetres one way or the other while using the fob to lock unlock, when working ok tighten the screws up.

Thanks. I'll have a look.

Which part is the mounting plate, what does it look like and how do I get to it.

HarryPearce said:

Thanks. I'll have a look.

Which part is the mounting plate, what does it look like and how do I get to it.

Click to expand...

Take off the internal door 'stuff' ...

Take the door card off - carefully...

Either prise the plastic off or cut a hole at the relevant location ... #38



this is what they usually look like ...

Thanks for the images.

It appears that during the night, the land rover fairies must have been about as the problem has mystically resolved itself. Wtf.

HarryPearce said:

Thanks for the images.

It appears that during the night, the land rover fairies must have been about as the problem has mystically resolved itself. Wtf.

Click to expand...

It's scared of LZ.