egr removal

i have just removed my egr, a complete removal not just a blanking plate. it would have been a very easy job apart from one allen head bolt into the exhaust maifold, the bolt just rounded off , i eventually removed it complete nightmare though.

where the egr bolts onto the inlet manifold land rover use hexigon head bolts so much easier in a tight space to undo, why oh why did they not do it on exauhst manifold?

anyhow i put two of hex heads back in the blanking plate and the allen heads in the inlet manifold a lot easier to get too

well i have to go try it out now im not expecting mirricals but colour of the inlet manifold was black so removing the egr can only make my td5 breath beter

I have been trying to get my EGR valve off today. Hex bolts?? what in the name of all that is holy decided that they were a good idea!! Mine completely siezed, lots of wd40 and still they wont budge!! Another bash tomorrow after an over night soaking of WD40. Fingers crossed.:crazy_driver:

I tried fitting mine the other day, the stud in the exhaust manifold was so rusted it just fell off!! been to afraid to attack the other one incase that snaps too and im carless!! may attack it tomorrow as ive got a week off!

good luck with it i got the lower allen bolt out of exhuast manifold nice and easy, the top one...no matter wot i tried would not budge, in the end i reasulted to brute force with only that one bolt holding it i liftted the pipe up and down hoping to free the bolt, it worked once it cracked it was no more than finger tight...as is allways the case lol

This what you want..not WD40 Plus Gas 400ml EAC Penetrating Oil EAC Plus Gas 400ml Dismantling Lubricant 400ml Aerosol Plus Gas - From Lawson HIS - UK

sounds ok, i made the mistake of not giving it time to work should have covered bolts and left overnight.

if anyone is gunna replace egr then spray with a penatrating oil and leave overnight, trying to drill n tap or replace exhaust manifold would not be fun

#

The technique that almost never fails is the careful use of a 4-ounce pin hammer.

You need to be patient, and spend 5 or ten minutes rapping the head of the stuck Allen screw (socket cap screw) straight inwards as if you were bashing in a nail.

The WILL loosen the screw if you have patience.

Trust me ....

CharlesY

i also found taking the top hose that goes directly over the top of the exhaust maifold/egr joint was a great help. why use socket cap scews on the exhaut maifold any how? a normal bolt would be hard enough to remove with the heat and rust over years

CharlesY said:

#

The technique that almost never fails is the careful use of a 4-ounce pin hammer.

You need to be patient, and spend 5 or ten minutes rapping the head of the stuck Allen screw (socket cap screw) straight inwards as if you were bashing in a nail.

The WILL loosen the screw if you have patience.

Trust me ....

CharlesY

Click to expand...

Hi Charles, you've said this once before and while I was helping a mate dismantle his 'bike I used your suggested method and it worked a treat; No damage to fixings at all.

First class advice

Cheers and a Happy and Healthy New Year to you and yours,

Dave

thebiglad said:

Hi Charles, you've said this once before and while I was helping a mate dismantle his 'bike I used your suggested method and it worked a treat; No damage to fixings at all.

First class advice

Cheers and a Happy and Healthy New Year to you and yours,

Dave

Click to expand...

I once (a very long time ago!) won a POUND (then worth4 GALLONS of petrol) for removing a bleed nipple intact from a brake caliper without damaging the caliper. When I say "intact", well, the bit of the bleed nipple on the outside of the caliper looked more like the head of a rivet by the time it came out, but the threaded part looked good, and the nipple actually unscrewed right out by fingers when it came loose.

To use this trick requires a light hammer, ideally 100grams/4 ounces, with a nice long handle. The raps should be about what it takes to bash a panel pin into pine wood with 3 or 4 smacks. Sheer violence won't do the job, so don't think one good blast with a two-pounder will save time - it won't! It needs many, perhaps hundreds of light raps.

What happens is that the small shocks of the raps are taken up in the RUST BETWEEN THE THREADS, and slowly but surely that rust is broken down from tough stuff to fine powder, working downwards from the end you are smacking. You will actually hear when it comes loose if you listen carefully.

Working on Landies you need to use all the senses you have, with one exception - do not use the sense that told you not to buy a LandRover in the first place!

CharlesY

I've had an EGR blanking plate sat in the garage for a couple of months now and have been to scared to have a go at it, seeing as I need the Disco for work. I'll give your tapping trick a go tomorrow and see if it does the job...

DomEllis said:

I've had an EGR blanking plate sat in the garage for a couple of months now and have been to scared to have a go at it, seeing as I need the Disco for work. I'll give your tapping trick a go tomorrow and see if it does the job...

Click to expand...

Get the engine up to temperature first. That also helps.
then be very very patient, tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap taptap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap taptap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap taptap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap taptap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap taptap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap

That might do it!
CharlesY

Are you, by any chance, a wee bit bored?

Just an update for anyone interested, following the removal of the complete egr yesterday.

I seemed to have gained a more even power range not as numb at low revs, as for mpg I'll have to check that over the week any improvment will be a bonus (td5auto), I never expected a vast change but least the engine is running on fresh air not spent gasses n slime, so it must run better. I would recomend to anyone once you look inside egr it's a wonder the engine ever perfoms like it does.

I gave up trying to completely remove the EGR valve!! Just removed the hoses and used the blanking kit on the side of the EGR valve. You should have seen the crap in the pipe work!! The pipe connected directly to the EGR valve had a hole the size of pin letting in air to the valve!! So much crap had blocked it up!! Still my Disco goes a lot better without the EGR valve.
Ian

hi just an update on the update, i have been driving my td5 for a few days now and im more than impressed with the improved performance. im not sure if my egr was stuck open or sticking but the difference is great.

the power(feels like more torque) is there as soon as you touch pedal before it would pick up but it felt laboured and under powered.

I did mine a while ago now & I've forgotten what it was like before! Also got a straight through minus the stupid cat!
When I was an apprentice ,one of the men told me you could loosen any nut & bolt bt tapping on the flats in the direction of undoing, so anticlockwise.