Disco 2 EGR removal query

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On your's it's a bit more to be removed but the principle is the same, remove everything, including the modulators(1, 3) or at least unplug them and insulate the plugs(23, 24), you can remove the cooler too(nr15) if you want and put the blanking plate to the exhaust manifold(13) then join the two coolant pipes together

EGR bypass.jpg
 
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you can see both pipes attached to the cooler(15) one is connected to the bottom(near the blue arrow) and one to the top to those thin tubes, joined with red line in the pic, you might be able to take the pipe from the bottom and connect it directly to the tank instead of the other one
coolant flow td5.JPG
 
sierrafery said:
you can see both pipes attached to the cooler(15) one is connected to the bottom(near the blue arrow) and one to the top to those thin tubes, joined with red line in the pic, you might be able to take the pipe from the bottom and connect it directly to the tank instead of the other one
View attachment 92447
Click to expand...

Aha! Thank you sir, I shall tinker away not and hopefully all will be well, I have however missed the fact i need gasket sealant so the job is on hold :(
 
Can I also just use a standard gasket sealant or does it have to be one designed for head gaskets (appreciate it isn't a head gasket)
 
I didnt use any sealant on mine, that's why you have that gasket there though sealant can't hurt, any automotive gasket sealant is good if you insist to use it just dont exceed the interior margins as pieces of sealant to be sucked into the inlet... you can clog the vacuum where ever you want but where i pointed on the pic is the proper place, even better is to cut out that T piece and join the two sides of that pipe together or the best is to replace that piece of pipe between the vacuum pump and the servo assy with a new one piece silicone one
 
sierrafery said:
I didnt use any sealant on mine, that's why you have that gasket there though sealant can't hurt, any automotive gasket sealant is good if you insist to use it just dont exceed the interior margins as pieces of sealant to be sucked into the inlet... you can clog the vacuum where ever you want but where i pointed on the pic is the proper place, even better is to cut out that T piece and join the two sides of that pipe together or the best is to replace that piece of pipe between the vacuum pump and the servo assy with a new one piece silicone one
Click to expand...

Ah ok so the vacuum pump is #16 and the servo asset is #11?
 
When i blanked my sons car i simply installed the blanking plate only. Does this mean ive only half done the process, is there any real benefit of blanking the vacuum pipes.
 
colingo said:
When i blanked my sons car i simply installed the blanking plate only. Does this mean ive only half done the process, is there any real benefit of blanking the vacuum pipes.
Click to expand...
and did you leave the valves there without fitting the bypass? ...then that engine should not run well cos the air flow to inlet is restricted by the working valves, the proper work is with valve bypassed and everything disconnected , vacuum restored
 
Thanks for the reply, not wishing to hijack the ops thread. Yes i just fitted the blanking plate and left everything else inplace. is there a diagram explaining the bypasses and blanking proceedures.
Many thanks, Colin.
 
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