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EGR Blanking

Discussion in 'TD5' started by C.McGrory, Jan 12, 2018.

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  1. C.McGrory

    C.McGrory Member

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    Hi all,
    I'm going to be removing the EGR on my 2004 TD5, just looking at the flange bolts on the exhaust manifold I can tell they'll give me issues!
    my question is, Can I blank EGR pipe after the cooler leaving the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the cooler in place, or will this cause an issue?

    Many thanks,
    All the best,
    Callum
     
  2. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    Hi Callum,

    You could but I would give it a go if I was you.

    My ones looked very very corroded and rusty, (that horrible deep red heat baked type of corrosion) I was very hesitant to give it a go.

    heres the advice i was given and what i did.

    give them a going over with a brush then a thorough soaking in penetrating fluid (I prefer plusgas, but wd40 should do it) the night before. Next day give them another soaking, (obviously don't start engine between soakings) then just make sure the tool you are using is seated nice and snug (light tap with hammer) get your one had on head of ratchet to make sure it stays straight and true and other hand on handle undo the bolt.

    My TD5 is an 03 with 123K on the clock, they came out just fine, made some strange squeaks and groans but all good, came out just fine, once out give the holes a squirt before popping in the new ones for the blanking plate, the main problem is that people don't use the tools properly, don't seat the bit correctly, pull at an odd angle then round of the inside of the bolt.

    Once job is done,
    Start engine with bonnet up and warm up, you will get odd smells and bit of smoke as the penetrating fluid evaporates and the silicone cures, gently increase revs to warm up but don't go mad, when smell and smoking stops job done!



    Dont forget to disconnect power leads to the solenoids, no need for them to be using current anymore!

    Use Locktite 5990 (copper silicone) to seal blanking plate, its only £6 halfords.
     
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  3. C.McGrory

    C.McGrory Member

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    thank you, I'll give them a go and see what they are like.
    if not i suppose i Could install the blanking plate between the exhaust manifold pipe flange and cooler? i may need longer bolts.

    I've got little rubber blanking caps for the vac hoses too,
     
  4. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    that was my fall back position, I was not happy having a pressurised cooler in isolation, and yes you will need slightly longer bolts (get Marine grade stainless) cheap on ebay
    but honestly mate thats worse case scenario, I would be very surprised if you don't get them out, just go mental with the penetrating fluid, which I why I used plus gas and not wd40 as its in a totally different league.
    Clean the bolts, soak them up, ( I dosed them the night before, soon as I got up, then right before I did the work) tap in your bit nice and tight, keep straight and true and pull gently no tugging!

    Just check your brakes once all finished , you don't want a leak in your vac system!
     
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  5. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    It is recommended that you disconnect the electrical connector(s) from the EGR modulator(s), to prevent vacuum from being applied to the now redundant vac hose(s). The engine management will then sense there is no EGR system fitted, so will disable any attempts of EGR operation. The modulator(s) are located on the right hand inner wing. Early models have just one, and later (EU3) models have two. Unplug the electrical connectors only from the modulators. Leave all vac pipes in situ, attached to the modulators and brake servo pipe! This is for your safety, as the brake assistance could be severely compromised by incorrect or inadequate fittings.


    from alive tuning.....
     
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  6. C.McGrory

    C.McGrory Member

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    thank you,
    I've printed their PDF installation guide which i will be following! :)
     
  7. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    Good luck mate, take some pics and let us know how you get on!

    just remember to enjoy it!, once your heart stops beating when you get the bolts out!
     
  8. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    PS dont forget to take out your MAP* sensor and make sure is nice and clean, (can use brake cleaner) when doing the egr delete.
    they can get very gunked up and cause a heap of problems.
    *(manifold absolute pressure)
    Its held on with two 8mm bolts on the inlet manifold, pop small smear of oil on green o ring when re fitting, (you can nick a bit from the end of the dipstik!)
    Screen Shot 2018-01-13 at 01.18.02.png Screen Shot 2018-01-13 at 01.18.07.png
     
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  9. ozzyboydeano

    ozzyboydeano Well-Known Member

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    you should have no issues the main objective is to stop exhaust re circulation. ...i opted to leave the cooler in place as i thought this is actual in a good spot to cool down extra coolant ..i removed the rest of the stuff though

    if you decide to leave in the vacuum actuators located on the air intake manifold you can remove the 2 screws that hold the butterfly plate
    the rubber plugs use on on the T peice and the other on the air intake box once you remove all the electronic solenoids



    here is mine
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018
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  10. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    nice vid of MAP removal and clean....
    Agree with leaving the cooler in situ, and bin the rest, no wastage modulator on the Def TD5, just the two solenoid mods on the inner wing.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018
  11. ozzyboydeano

    ozzyboydeano Well-Known Member

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    thanks mate but i did forget to mention that the map sensor hole can block up i only wiped the temp probe

    i have to ask why are we now talking about waste gate modulators ? the disco runs the same set up 2 solenoids in the inner wing both can be removed ...normally a blanking kit comes with 2 rubber plugs one is for T piece on the vacuum line the other is for the vent that is located on the air cleaner box ..this allows the actuators to return home
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018
  12. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    I was told that some discos' have a modulator on the waste gate connected the EGR system, making three in total that is not fitted on the defender,
    no idea if this is correct as I don't have a disco, happy to be corrected!
     
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  13. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    IMG_4214.JPG IMG_4218.JPG IMG_4219.JPG IMG_4220.JPG

    Callum,

    heres my blanking plates and I cleaned my MAP as it was on my mind, (and hole, thanks ozzyboydeno!)
     
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  14. C.McGrory

    C.McGrory Member

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    thanks for all the help,
    I didn't get around to doing it today as i was busy fitting my LED lights and cleaning!
    I did pick up some hex bits that will fit on a ratchet which will make it easier. I also had a scouting mission to see what's what and cleaned the MAP while i was there. it wasn't too bad at all.

    I did notice some oil had collected underneath the engine breather pipe (where it connects to the valve cover), so i can assume some oil is making it into the intake pipe, is this something i should keep an eye on?

    thanks again,
    Callum
     
  15. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    Nothing to worry about, if you have enough slack on the breather cut it back a tad and re fix clip / jubilee, its just a poor seal so stuff is getting through and weeping down side. I think its a spring clip so you cannot tighten it and the breather pipe gets squished over time. the oil is caused by gases under the valve cover condensing and leaving an oily residue, thats what the breather pipe is for for etc, but you dont want it leaking all over your engine!

    if you can buy Halfords Professional stuff its not expensive and has a lifetime warranty I exchanged a T25 torx bit that snapped on me on Friday, after 5 years of use no receipt no arguments. Have a look at their website.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018
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  16. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    Things to do if you under the bonnet and have the engine cover off

    • Lube up your turbo wastegate and actuator rod (wd/plusgas)
    • Lube at your steering UJ's x 2 (spray grease)
    • Clean your ATS (Air Temp Sensor) on side of air filter box, similar to MAP but a bit more delicate.
     
  17. ozzyboydeano

    ozzyboydeano Well-Known Member

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    allways a good i idea to check the map sensor even if the egr is delted... excess carbon build up in side the manifold will take some time to clear up depending on how well its baked ... i ended up removing my intake manifold and burnt out the carbon build up.... i also scrapped out as much as possible on the cylinder head in let ports these ports where aproxx 20 to 30 % smaller due to carbon build up the carbon was hard as concrete well baked on there

    once you get this area is all clean engine oil will stay cleaner

    i would also suggest in adding in a catch can ..this limites the amount of carbon blowby that is about to re enter the air intake
    [/QUOTE]
     
  18. ozzyboydeano

    ozzyboydeano Well-Known Member

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    depends on how deep you look into it for example driving style can relate when the EGR is active
    if its connected to the ECU this means its related by some way as the ECU is the brain

    but if you disconnect the boost modulator or delete then you will end up with boost issues not EGR issues..the reason i removed mine as i had other plans on upping boost levels via a mechanical boost controller thats tricks the waste gate
     
  19. ozzyboydeano

    ozzyboydeano Well-Known Member

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    i do disagree
    these can be done with engine cover on .... i removed my engine cover and it now lives in the shed as i like the idea when opening the bonnet i like to see the engine and note any any oil leaks or a suspected loose bolts .....i normally stay away from adding in lubricant sprays to the waste gate unless i have a waste gate that is seized and spraying them with wd40 or any other solvent might be a bandage fix or for diagnosing issues .... but once it sees high heat the lubricant will just boil off and bake unless its a lubricant that can stand high temps for long periods ?

    WD40 was good back in the day but now they have added in to much kerosene ..this has caught me out once before and has ruined a few things on my jetski... kerosene likes react with rubber....and there is also a rubber diaphragm inside the waste gate actuator

    the uni joint should be free of any dirt
    if you spray them this will now attract dirt /fine dust and grit ...firstly you will knock out the scraper ring ....once this scraper isn't working the fine grit and fine dust then knocks out the seal ... so spraying them with grease or a wd40 your only accelerating an issue
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
  20. KISSMYAURA

    KISSMYAURA Well-Known Member

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    i am not saying spray the actuator, just the wastegate itself, I use plusgas not wd40 for that very reason but if its all he has then it will do.
    High temp spray grease works just as well but plusgas has been fine for me.

    LR recommends lithium grease for lube on steering column UJ's, so thats what I use.

    Still thats what I like about LZ you never stop learning, so thanks for the tip.
    I figure by the time I am too old to leave the house I will have gained enough knowledge to do everything I buggered up when i was you younger!
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
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