EDC fuel pump from another Discovery?

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Tickman

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89
Location
Dundee
My EDC injector pump is knackered, leaking diesel into the timing case and out the hole in the bottom.

My question is can I fit an EDC pump off ebay to my Discovery and get it working without having to get it programmed by someone? I am quite able to do the swap and will be doing the timing belt at the same time.

I know I could do the mechanical pump swap but would like to keep the costs down and can probably get the pump, belt kit and the locking tools for about £200. If I change to mechanical then there are other 'bits' I need to find!

If the pump needs to know the car is there a way round that so I don't have 2 tons of metal dead in the street!

It is a 1997 Auto.

Thanks, John.
 
ive never tried but as a rule edc pumps arent interchangeable,without programming,if its just a leak the front seal can be changed ,and there are a few threads on here were people have themselves
 
ive never tried but as a rule edc pumps arent interchangeable,without programming,if its just a leak the front seal can be changed ,and there are a few threads on here were people have themselves

Thanks for that James I will now be searching for the info on changing the front seal.
I had assumed that they were not interchangeable but didn't know if there was a work around.
 
I changed my seal on my manual pump-was leaking biodiesel onto cambelt which then snapped-fairly easy to do,but don't know if edc is different on drive end to manual-gladly tell you how I did it if you want to know
 
I changed my seal on my manual pump-was leaking biodiesel onto cambelt which then snapped-fairly easy to do,but don't know if edc is different on drive end to manual-gladly tell you how I did it if you want to know

This is what I am planning to do!
I now have the means to lock the pump cam to remove the pump so will hopefully get some time to take it apart.

I went to a local 'diesel pump specialist' to ask if they replaced seals and was basically told that my pump was knackered and needed a full rebuild as the diesel will have f****d the bearings! I don't think they wanted the hassle :)

Any pointers would be greatly received, also where did you get your seal?

John.
 
seals came from:Diesel Bob Tuning - Home
Go for viton as then ok in case you try bio or veg further down the road.
Need someone to confirm edc pump and manual pump are the same regarding drive end.
Hopefully someone chimes in.
 
Just had a look on Diesel Bobs site, I assume this is the kit?

EDC kit for Bosch & Zexel rotary injection pump
£28.00
These pumps are found on:
BMW 318/325/525 1996 - 2000
RangeRover 2.5
Omega 2.5
Mitsubishi 2.5 TD (2000-2005)

From this page:
Diesel Bob Tuning - Fuel System Parts

I just don't want to order the wrong kit and then have the extra delay on to waiting for more parts as I am also having to tie in with the weather!

Thanks for the info so far.

John
 
Give him a ring-he is a great guy n very helpful,sometimes just the seal is an option,depends what he has in stock.
Also once you know size,simply bearings sell a viton equivalent I believe(sorry cannot remember size of seal).Did mine over year and half ago and not leaked since.
 
This is how I did mine,but remember mine is a 300 tdi manual-never seen an edc pump

Well I got the seals from Diesel bob,then set about the pump.On the l.h.s. of the pump viewed from drive end,is a 10mm A/F bolt at about 9 o'clock-this bolt has a thick spacer underneath.If you remove the spacer and retightenthe bolt it locks the shaft.So using a spanner to turn the pump so the 10mm timing pin is a slide fit on the drive flange,then lock it in this posn with the 10mm locking bolt on the side of the pump.Next I used stilsons the hold the flange while I undid the nut(no strain on the locking bolt on the shaft)-then a puller to pull drive flange off-next out came the old seal,and in went the new.Then just reassemble (+loctite).Before removing the locking bolt,I checked the 10mm timing pin was still a nice sliding fit,which it was so pretty confident all was well.
Refitted the pump-refitted new cambelt and timed up-wound the engine over several times by hand and all valves and rockers were doing what they should-so it looks like I got away with the belt breaking with no extra damage(was only doing 20mph on overun when it happened).Anyway put her all back together,and once I had got all the air out of the fuel lines she fired up,sounded OK and been driving her since,so jobs a good un.
 
AFAIK the 300tdi edc pump is just a pump the ecu circuit just turns it on and off etc at right point/interval the imob tells the ecu to switcch on the pump it does not need any code other than the imob code . to activate the ecu .
 
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This is how I did mine,but remember mine is a 300 tdi manual-never seen an edc pump

Well I got the seals from Diesel bob,then set about the pump.On the l.h.s. of the pump viewed from drive end,is a 10mm A/F bolt at about 9 o'clock-this bolt has a thick spacer underneath.If you remove the spacer and retightenthe bolt it locks the shaft.So using a spanner to turn the pump so the 10mm timing pin is a slide fit on the drive flange,then lock it in this posn with the 10mm locking bolt on the side of the pump.Next I used stilsons the hold the flange while I undid the nut(no strain on the locking bolt on the shaft)-then a puller to pull drive flange off-next out came the old seal,and in went the new.Then just reassemble (+loctite).Before removing the locking bolt,I checked the 10mm timing pin was still a nice sliding fit,which it was so pretty confident all was well.
Refitted the pump-refitted new cambelt and timed up-wound the engine over several times by hand and all valves and rockers were doing what they should-so it looks like I got away with the belt breaking with no extra damage(was only doing 20mph on overun when it happened).Anyway put her all back together,and once I had got all the air out of the fuel lines she fired up,sounded OK and been driving her since,so jobs a good un.

Thanks for that, as it stands it is doing nothing, don't want to chance the belt going just incase it make more work for me.
I will give them a call in the morning and hopefully get what I need, if he needs sizes then I will have to strip it first but would rather have it all done in the same day so I don't have any bits leftover.

AFAIK the 300tdi edc pump is just a pump the ecu circuit just turns it on and off etc at right point/interval the imob tells the ecu to switcch on the pump it does not need any code other than the imob code . to activate the ecu .
As far is I could tell this is what I have found hinted about on the net, I just don't know how to get the imob code programmed or anyone local that knows without asking at Land Rover and I am not wanting to go down the main dealer road due to the usual costs.

John
 
Dont see why you need a code , as the green box (imob) only talks to the ecu , both of which you should already have, the ecu will "talk" to any edc IP HTSH
 
Main seal ordered and a few copper washers which should be here Monday if not sooner!

Quick question, is this the the accelerator and Kickdown bracket that is used for the manual pump? if it is then it gives me an option to change the pump to manual and be able to use that straight off.

IMAG0967_zps35c3e5cc.jpg


Thanks for the help so far guys.

John
 
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Think you need to stick with edc if yours is edc.
edc pump generates more bhp afaik-might be really gutless with a manual pump.
 
The lever and connecting cables on the pump are just a pivot point for the kickdown cable from the cruise control and pedal lever . The reving up is done by a electric signal from the potentiometer on the top of the acc pedal via the ecu HTSH
 
If I fit a manual pump I can tweak it to get a little back. It is just electronics tweaking it anyway!

John

Manual pump cannot be tweaked electronically,there is a throttle cable-(whereas edc is fly by wire)you can however adjust the pump characteristics by mechanically adjusting it.
 
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