EAS Question

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
D

DeRanged Rover

New Member
Posts
107
Location
London
Hi all,

Wonder if you have any tips on my latest issue.

The Car (P38 dHSE) suddenly overheated the other day - took it down to my local garage who eventually worked out that the impellers on the Water Pump had broken - They've replaced the Water Pump and taken out all the broken bits but on the way back from the garage today the EAS lights started flashing and the car was bouncing up and down.

They said that they were very careful to ensure that the shocks went back into position when lowering the car (they had it raised up whilst checking for leaks etc) so I presume that is not the problem. Will I need to reset/re-calliberate the EAS to sort this out or could it be the sign of something else going wrong?

Thanks!
 
They will have had it hung on a two post ramp. Not good as the sensors may have gone to areas unknown. Hanging a P38 axle on the shocks is never a good idea. You need to read any faults but bet the sensor values have changed. Two post ramps should not be used on P38s.
 
Last edited:
As Wammers said, the height sensors have been extended beyond their normal range, probably picked up crap at the end of the track. It may recover as the crap moves but if it's gone into fault mode you will need to clear the faults and unlock the EAS. you should not need to re-calibrate unless you have to change a sensor IMO.
 
So ... Just plugged in the software and ran a test and as suggested, the Front Right and Rear Left sensors are giving incorrect readings.

I unlocked the EAS, unplugged the computer and have just started the car. It shows that it is in access mode and the light keeps blinking like it is adjusting itself but even after a minute there was no change in the height.

Does this mean I now also have leaks in the system too? Or is that still a problem caused by the height sensors?

What do I need to do next?

Thanks for your help guys!
 
DeRanged Rover said:
So ... Just plugged in the software and ran a test and as suggested, the Front Right and Rear Left sensors are giving incorrect readings.

I unlocked the EAS, unplugged the computer and have just started the car. It shows that it is in access mode and the light keeps blinking like it is adjusting itself but even after a minute there was no change in the height.

Does this mean I now also have leaks in the system too? Or is that still a problem caused by the height sensors?

What do I need to do next?

Thanks for your help guys!
Click to expand...

When you tried this did you have all the doors and tailgate shut?
An open door will freeze the EAS.
 
All doors and tailgate were shut. Is there something you have to do to clear the fault? I just clicked unlock but the faults were still there.
 
DeRanged Rover said:
I feel like a right numpty but I could have sworn that button never came up ... Oh well. Will have to do it tomorrow morning now ...
Click to expand...

It doesn't, don't worry just my warped sense of humour. First you must have good idle green on all the time. Pressing read faults should list them pressing unlock should erase them. With the EASunlock software you should get an Adobe PDF file, print it off, it's the instructions. Have close by until you get used to using the software. Good luck.
 
Just plugged the software in again.

Now no faults showing but the car won't rise off the bump stops when i turn it on. I can hear the pump working but there is no motion at any corner. Major leakage somewhere or is this still a sensor issue?
 
Could be the tank is drained, it will take 15-20 mins to fill...

Leave a door open when you do this so height changes are cancelled, as this may throw up an error as it is taking too long to raise....wait the 20 mins, then close the doors and select a ride height...with luck it should jump up...if not, more searching is required.
 
As Saint say's could be the tank is empty or it could be as you say a leak, the third possibility is that the compressor is not making any pressure.
As Wammers said, with the EAS software, you must get "Good Idle" before it will do anything. Assuming you have good idle and no faults you need to stop the software, then disconnect the cable then turn off the ignition in that order. When you turn the ignition back on the ECU reverts to normal operation.
You can check that the compressor is making good pressure by lifting it up and undoing the blue pipe, with it running you should not be able to stop the air with your finger.
You can force the compressor to run with the EAS software.
 
It worked!

Must have been an empty reservoir! Thank you guys!

Really don't know where I would be without this forum! A donation is on its way! :)

Edit: How does one make a donation?
 
DeRanged Rover said:
It worked!

Must have been an empty reservoir! Thank you guys!

Really don't know where I would be without this forum! A donation is on its way! :)

Edit: How does one make a donation?
Click to expand...


PM me i will give you my bank account details. I will of course send any money recieved to ACCY as soon as the interest builds up enough. Minimum donation £200.00 i believe.:D:D:D

Seriously now, don't know donate button has gone walkabout.
 
Cheers guys ... I have to say ... I am getting a wee bit more confident now with tinkering around with the P38 ...

May even work up the courage to try change the Airbags one of these days ... :cool:
 
Give the air bags a go, it looks daunting as it seems a big job to do, but its not a bad job at all on a scale of 1 to 10 i would say its a 4
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Montyjohn
P38A Adding a valve to manually fill EAS tank and why did my pump fail again?
Replies
14
Views
2K
Datatek
Datatek
K
Is my RR Classic in EAS shutdown?
Replies
12
Views
1K
kevleaper
K
feyniriel
P38 EAS problems
Replies
18
Views
2K
pwood999
pwood999
roger01
2000 RPM max
Replies
11
Views
1K
roger01
roger01
Henry_b
P38A EAS fault
2
Replies
34
Views
3K
Datatek
Datatek
Back
Top