driving with rear prop removed

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aniesigh

New Member
Posts
49
Location
North Devon
hi all,
looking at buying a freelander from a mate but the IRD is knocking, have read around and gather i can basically just removed the rear propshaft/s and drive it in 2wd which generally gets rid of the knock, but my question is, how long for? is it going to self destruct in a months time or will it battle on? i know this is abit like asking how long is a piece of string as it depends how badly worn it is etc etc but just want some sort of an idea what to expect really?
and if i decide to repair it in the future,which part is it that caused the original problem? i gather landrover changed the ratio for the later models but was this within the diff or the IRD?
cheers,
adam
 
Do a search but I wouldn't touch it if I was yu. Ya looking at a very large bill to replace he IRD. Also if it's a 1.8 petrol you'll be spending a fortune on new head gaskets anorl
 
hi all,
looking at buying a freelander from a mate but the IRD is knocking, have read around and gather i can basically just removed the rear propshaft/s and drive it in 2wd which generally gets rid of the knock, but my question is, how long for? is it going to self destruct in a months time or will it battle on? i know this is abit like asking how long is a piece of string as it depends how badly worn it is etc etc but just want some sort of an idea what to expect really?
and if i decide to repair it in the future,which part is it that caused the original problem? i gather landrover changed the ratio for the later models but was this within the diff or the IRD?
cheers,
adam

A worn out VCU will be the most likely cause for the IRD to fail. This can be seen if the rear tyres are worn wavey or saw-toothed. If you want to buy it then ask to remove the props and vcu before you do, to see how it drives in 2wd. The ird could be damaged where it joins the prop or internally. If its damaged internally you may not be able to drive it in 2wd either. If you want a big 2wd then buy a volvo estate instead.
 
well its not quite a fiver but he bought it for £70, and put 12 months mot on it so it only owes him £130, has good service history, 4 new tyres, spot light side bars blah blah i just want a cheap work horse to be honest, and i was sure i found a place selling exchange IRD's for £450, but accept i may have dreamed that!!
and Ref. the headgasket, i thought they brought out an upgraded headgasket which cured problems? again am willing to accept i made that up too!!
 
well thats the thing, its near enough throw away money if it comes to it but would rather not drive it for a month then it die! think i'll take them off and see how it drives and then consider my options!
 
I've also seen IRD's for around that price somewhere, can't for the life of me remember where though. You can get the rebuild kits on ebay if you fancy having a go at rebuilding the IRD. All in all, you'll still get a good car for under a grand if you do decide to go for it. I think the VCU's are around £400 new (someone correct me) but you could fit a new VCU and IRD and still be around a grand if you find them cheap enough and do the labour yourself.
 
yeah ashcroft sell the VCU's for £375, rebuilding the IRD myself was the other option but i think even the ebay kits come close to the £450 price exchange unit i've seen so it just wouldn't be worth the risk, theyre on ebay the exchange units so i didnt dream it :) will wait and see what happens,
cheers all
 
Reversing on full lock on a level supermarket carpark, then dip clutch and let it come to a stop, if it rolls forward then the vcu is suspesct. Is this correct?
 
Reversing on full lock on a level supermarket carpark, then dip clutch and let it come to a stop, if it rolls forward then the vcu is suspesct. Is this correct?

Reversing on full lock on a level supermarket carpark, then dip clutch and let it come to a stop, and judge the amount of resistance. Sorry hard to judge if you have nothing to compare against, but you should only feel a small amount of resistance on a good VCU. But the other extreme the car feels like the brakes are on with a bad VCU. Obviously there is a broad range inbetween. Also check inside edge of rear wheels to see if worn in saw tooth pattern. Or, as we do measure the resistance of the VCU on a bench.
 
Yes i am, i was only informing him where he had seen the original price. And we do appear on the google sponsored links on this site. But if its a problem i won't tell people in future and delete the post.

Spamming aside, as you are a sponsor I doubt Roy will have any issues :)


Speaking for myself and behalf of many others, I'm sure we would all like to see some more mechanical pics from your workshop.

For example replacing bearings on an IRD
 
Spamming aside, as you are a sponsor I doubt Roy will have any issues :)


Speaking for myself and behalf of many others, I'm sure we would all like to see some more mechanical pics from your workshop.

For example replacing bearings on an IRD

Trouble is, its not the replacing the bearings which are difficult, infact very easy, its the removing of the oil cooler without damaging it and shimming of the crown wheel after you have done this that makes the job so fiddly. From the prices i see the bearing and crown wheel kits being sold for, is it really worth the hassle/chance of getting the shimming wrong/damaging cooler trying to do it DIY to save less than £100??
 
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