Drivers Window sticking.....

Guys,

My driver's window drops ok, but when trying to close it it either slows right down, or beeps, thinking its hit an obstruction and then drops again - watching the window as it rises, you can see it dip forwards slightly as it climbs... If you apply a small amount of pressure to the glass as it rises you can override the obstruction and it will close.

My question is this - is it just a case of dropping some lubrication fluid (WD40, GT85, KY) down inside the window channel to allow it to rise, or is it a case of stripping the door card off and having a fiddle?

A swift answer would be appreciated - in this weather I need to open the window occasionally!

Its likely that it will need some adjustment which unfortunately will need the door card removed this way you will get a better view on whats happening.

Hi. I would seriously consider having the door card off and see what the problem is as it could lead to the control arm snapping as it did in my case. I was lucky in that where it broke I was able to weld it up and it works fine now.
Taking the door card off is easy. Carefully unpop the holders all the way around the edge of the door dard except the top. Undo the two screws in the arm rest/door shut handle, and one in the door lever. Remove the door lever backing and carefully lift the door card upwards and outwards. As you do this you need to also undo the speaker wire at the bottom and the one in the top of the door.
You'll now be able to see the way it works and what the fault may be. Mine was the rubber strip that goes down the front of the window. It's a running strip that prevents the window wobbling about and keeps the window inline. Perhaps this is what the fault is. Mine fell out and was in the bottom of the door. Also check the two ends of the window at the bottom where the arms connect. These are what raise the window and lower the window. Maybe one of these have popped out allowing the window two tilt. Good luck.

its funny...every time i see someone post a fault on here it seems i have the same problem...window sticking, wet foot well, battery drain,cdl keeps opening and closing etc etc etc. it seems to me that Range Rovers have more 'common faults' on them than i dont know what. im actually getting rid of mine cos i have better things to waste my money on!! rant over (ha ha) sorry

Hi all,

I had the exact same fault and Land Rover quoted me £195 for a new window bar and I laughed so much at the labour charge that they sent for the men in white coats.

I called my local mobile mechanic who had the interior door panel off quick smart, bent a bar back into shape and 18 months later she still works fine.

Your in Kent, not that far maybe he can come out and have a look!

bighammerfan said:

its funny...every time i see someone post a fault on here it seems i have the same problem...window sticking, wet foot well, battery drain,cdl keeps opening and closing etc etc etc. it seems to me that Range Rovers have more 'common faults' on them than i dont know what. im actually getting rid of mine cos i have better things to waste my money on!! rant over (ha ha) sorry

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Yeah, some of us are slow learners or gluttons for punishment or plain crazy.
I'll keep mine fer a time longer but my fingers are getting deformed from crossing them when I drive it.

I thought I'd cured this a year ago by greasing the runners etc, but it seems to have started again.

I've had the door card off, but can't see any deformed bars etc - would anyone have an idea of which one could be misaligned? I've also checked both runners and they both seem to be running smoothly...

Slippy1701 - any idea?

canucki said:

Taking the door card off is easy. Carefully unpop the holders all the way around the edge of the door dard except the top. Undo the two screws in the arm rest/door shut handle, and one in the door lever. Remove the door lever backing and carefully lift the door card upwards and outwards.

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You missed the screw tucked under the tweeter enclosure which has to be gently pried off first so you can get to it. Oh wait, maybe you left it out on purpose so he'd be left tuggin' and swearin' for a bit?

RAV, I haven't worked on my rangie's window yet but based on other cars you might find the teeth in the gearing are beginning to wear or shear, or it might be the runner cables (if there are cables..as I said, haven't looked so don't know how its done in a Rangie. If they're there they tend to corrode and stick a bit and ultimately to snap). Usually leads to slippage at the bottom of the travel. If so you'd do best to dismantle the entire assembly to take a look. Unfortunately if these are the problems there's not much you can do in terms of a fix other than getting some parts from salvage, cleaning it all up and putting it back in. Oh and I wouldn't apply pressure to the window to help it up, just grab the top of the glass and gently pull till it gets going smoothly again.

rasheed said:

You missed the screw tucked under the tweeter enclosure which has to be gently pried off first so you can get to it. Oh wait, maybe you left it out on purpose so he'd be left tuggin' and swearin' for a bit?

RAV, I haven't worked on my rangie's window yet but based on other cars you might find the teeth in the gearing are beginning to wear or shear, or it might be the runner cables (if there are cables..as I said, haven't looked so don't know how its done in a Rangie. If they're there they tend to corrode and stick a bit and ultimately to snap). Usually leads to slippage at the bottom of the travel. If so you'd do best to dismantle the entire assembly to take a look. Unfortunately if these are the problems there's not much you can do in terms of a fix other than getting some parts from salvage, cleaning it all up and putting it back in. Oh and I wouldn't apply pressure to the window to help it up, just grab the top of the glass and gently pull till it gets going smoothly again.

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The regulator is a scissor action working in 2 runners on the bottom of the glass. Hard to see how it can tilt unless the ball has popped out of the plastic guide on one of the runners or something is obstructing it. Worn teeth will stop it closing and make a noise but the window will not tilt.

Datatek said:

The regulator is a scissor action working in 2 runners on the bottom of the glass. Hard to see how it can tilt unless the ball has popped out of the plastic guide on one of the runners or something is obstructing it. Worn teeth will stop it closing and make a noise but the window will not tilt.

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The windows guide/clamp has a nasty habit of rotting in 2 and snapping and this drops one side of the window and makes a nasty bang when yu use the winder.

I've had the door card off again and still can't see any reason for it binding....

Having a looky around inside it though, and I can see a fair few drilled out rivets sitting in the bottom of the door - so at a guess, it looks like the regulator has been replaced already - looks like I've got to do it again then....