Drilling castor correction

smurphy · Jan 22, 2014

I'm going to be lifting my Disco by 2inches, so I'm going to weld n redilling the swivel positions 3°. Also I'm going to crank the arms at the chassis end the 3° too. I'm looking to keep the bushes as off the shelf parts as well as the prop shaft
My question is would it be better to cut off n reposition the shocker n spring seat too?
Regards Steve.

davesdisco · Jan 22, 2014

could you not just use caster correction bush

jayf12000 · Jan 23, 2014

caster correction bush will still rotate the axel and he will need a wide angle prop which is what he is trying to avoid by drilling the swivels.

300tdistu · Jan 23, 2014

Why would you need to do all that for a 2" lift ? 4"/6" yes but 2" ??

smurphy · Jan 23, 2014

Mine is my daily driver too, I'm also going to relocate the anti-roll bar or drop it 2inch too. It required on all lifts as it will change the geometry of the suspension, steering and handling. Using correction bushes only adds issues on other things.
If people are fine with doing things just because it's easier than doing it correctly thats their perogative, but I'd rather have it right.
Back to my question, do people think that I need to relocate the spring and shocker seat?
Regards Steve

jamesmartin · Jan 23, 2014

smurphy said:
Mine is my daily driver too, I'm also going to relocate the anti-roll bar or drop it 2inch too. It required on all lifts as it will change the geometry of the suspension, steering and handling. Using correction bushes only adds issues on other things.
If people are fine with doing things just because it's easier than doing it correctly thats their perogative, but I'd rather have it right.
Back to my question, do people think that I need to relocate the spring and shocker seat?
Regards Steve

if your correcting chrome balls why would you need to correct arms as well ,correcting arms would keep geometry of spring plates

big si · Jan 23, 2014

Doesnt the heat from welding normalise the component rendering any case hardening redundant? I don't personally know but just a thought. Not a component i'd want to weaken.

jamesmartin · Jan 23, 2014

big si said:
Doesnt the heat from welding normalise the component rendering any case hardening redundant? I don't personally know but just a thought. Not a component i'd want to weaken.

it would and void your insurance if discovered

smurphy · Jan 23, 2014

jamesmartin said:
if your correcting chrome balls why would you need to correct arms as well ,correcting arms would keep geometry of spring plates

Using correction arms is what I'm trying to avoid as then brings up other issues like the prop. Thats why I'll alter the arms only at the chassis end as the bushes would be under strain all the time.

big si said:
Doesnt the heat from welding normalise the component rendering any case hardening redundant? I don't personally know but just a thought. Not a component i'd want to weaken.

I'm unsure if they are hardened as it would also make them brittle. I could always harden them up again.

jamesmartin said:
it would and void your insurance if discovered

As most modifications, plus I have enough confidence in my own abilities to know the wheel won't fall off.

Doesn't look like anyone is answering my query so I'll look at how they sit once I have the axel back under.

Regards Steve

jamesmartin · Jan 23, 2014

smurphy said:
Using correction arms is what I'm trying to avoid as then brings up other issues like the prop. Thats why I'll alter the arms only at the chassis end as the bushes would be under strain all the time.

you still have prop issue whatever you do

Thor1950 · Jan 23, 2014

In stead of fooking around send them to pressbrake he can bend them for you. You weld on them and they is fooked, will brake

smurphy · Jan 23, 2014

Thor1950 said:
In stead of fooking around send them to pressbrake he can bend them for you. You weld on them and they is fooked, will brake

Don't quite understand which bit you are thinking off.

smurphy · Jan 23, 2014

jamesmartin said:
you still have prop issue whatever you do

Maybe but it won't be running at extra 3°.

Also where the swivel bolt positions are I could redrill both in new positions save welding all together, but then it wouldn't be a off the shelf part anymore.

Mark151151 · Feb 21, 2014

Hi did you ever do this? I have been considering the same recently however mine is because I will be running a 4" lift and don't want a more expensive prop. I have broken them before so if I can make it work with a standard prop I'd rather do that.

Cheers

Mr Noisy · Feb 21, 2014

I wonder if chopping the axle casing would be easier?

Ie use correction arms 3 or 6 degree to sort geometry but chop axle case to rotate diff nose upwards again.

Maybe?

Never sure if I get the wrong end of the stick with these geo things though.

All I know is I have been running a lift for ages using arms and prop and it's great, no ongoing trouble, cruises easy at 85mph.

Mark151151 · Feb 21, 2014

My main concern with that is if it does fail your wheels falling off. By drilling/machining the swivels your only compromising their strength a minimal amount and a failure is unlikely.

Basically I'd like to keep standard arms on to keep the diff pointing towards the gearbox so there is minimum stress on the front prop but adjust the swivels so the swivel is essentially vertical again to prevent bump steer etc. I'm also looking at modifying the front radius arm mounts to put less strain on the bushes. When sitting at ride height.

DiscoHutch · Feb 22, 2014

I think you would still need a wide angle prop to cope with the increased amount of travel from fully compressed to fully extended.

jayf12000 · Feb 22, 2014

Mark151151 said:
My main concern with that is if it does fail your wheels falling off. By drilling/machining the swivels your only compromising their strength a minimal amount and a failure is unlikely.

Basically I'd like to keep standard arms on to keep the diff pointing towards the gearbox so there is minimum stress on the front prop but adjust the swivels so the swivel is essentially vertical again to prevent bump steer etc. I'm also looking at modifying the front radius arm mounts to put less strain on the bushes. When sitting at ride height.

your gearbox wont be pointing at the diff so will still have the same stress at that end.

Mr Noisy · Feb 24, 2014

raising the diff nose reduces the work the prop ujs have to do, for sure

and drilling the swivels is considered a fairly regular mod for those that feel that way inclined (no pun intended) so if thats what you want to do youre not on your own by any means.

RKServicing · Feb 24, 2014

If your
Chopping everything off of the axel and moving it around 3deg. Then why wouldn't you do spring seat? Personally. I'd go prop and arms. I'm all for saving cash but the effort in moving everything eggsakery 3deg around the axel is surly not worth it. I've ran a 2" lift for atleast 4/5
Years now. Just springs and shocks. Nothing has worn out. I'm only changing all the bits to arms and stuff because I want to. Not because I feel I need it.

Drilling castor correction

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