Disco 2 Drag link

Hi guys,
Does changing the drag link assembly affect the tracking of wheels? Or can I just unbolt the drag link and track rod and rebolt on new one? I'm looking at buying the whole assembly as it seems easier than replacing the end joints for not much diffirence in price?
Mot guy reckons half an inch travel, just checked more like 2mm! But suppose that's enough.
Is there a torque setting for the nylock nuts?
Thanks

Iirc, in the WSM there is a specified length for the draglink and it is all written up in there.

Cheers

alexc2701 said:

Hi guys,
Does changing the drag link assembly affect the tracking of wheels? Or can I just unbolt the drag link and track rod and rebolt on new one? I'm looking at buying the whole assembly as it seems easier than replacing the end joints for not much diffirence in price?
Mot guy reckons half an inch travel, just checked more like 2mm! But suppose that's enough.
Is there a torque setting for the nylock nuts?
Thanks

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assuming tracking and steering box are already set and central, fit new drag link and adjust so that steering wheel runs straight when car is,when steering box is central near side wheel should be straight and fully in line with the rear wheel, the track rod can then be adjusted till off side wheel is the same

jamesmartin said:

assuming tracking and steering box are already set and central, fit new drag link and adjust so that steering wheel runs straight when car is,when steering box is central near side wheel should be straight and fully in line with the rear wheel, the track rod can then be adjusted till off side wheel is the same

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It's already central as it is and both wheels match so if I disconnect drag link and attach center joint first then adjust the end joints to suit and lock in place then do track rod it will be okay and not require adjusting? Just seemed worth the ask! Thanks james

alexc2701 said:

It's already central as it is and both wheels match so if I disconnect drag link and attach center joint first then adjust the end joints to suit and lock in place then do track rod it will be okay and not require adjusting? Just seemed worth the ask! Thanks james

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are all central ie box wheels and steering wheel,if so just fit new roughly screwed in as old one is and adjust till it drives with steering wheel correct,your not altering the track rod so once adjusted your back to the setting you had

jamesmartin said:

are all central ie box wheels and steering wheel,if so just fit new and adjust till it drives with steering wheel correct,your not altering the track rod so once adjusted your back to the setting you had

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Yes with the wheel straight everything else lines up; besides the two Mil play in the one joint, as the caps on others are degraded I figure change them all as they're not expensive, so I was gana do the drag link at front then back rod too just didn't want to end up with it eating tyres. Already got a cut in one with ton of tread in just to top off. Crap week really
Also when tightening I'm assuming as it's taper fit it should resist spinning when tightening if it does grab just press it further into taper? Since its taper fit and nylock just do it tight? Or is there a torque for movement?

alexc2701 said:

Yes with the wheel straight everything else lines up; besides the two Mil play in the one joint, as the caps on others are degraded I figure change them all as they're not expensive, so I was gana do the drag link at front then back rod too just didn't want to end up with it eating tyres. Already got a cut in one with ton of tread in just to top off. Crap week really
Also when tightening I'm assuming as it's taper fit it should resist spinning when tightening if it does grab just press it further into taper? Since its taper fit and nylock just do it tight? Or is there a torque for movement?

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you can fit drag link as i said but if you want to change track rod it should be tracked after, if taper spins apply pressure with a lever bar or similar, just get it tight

jamesmartin said:

you can fit drag link as i said but if you want to change track rod it should be tracked after, if taper spins apply pressure with a lever bar or similar, just get it tight

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I have to take it back for a retest anyway just wanted to know if to get him to track it while there; thanks James!

alexc2701 said:

I have to take it back for a retest anyway just wanted to know if to get him to track it while there; thanks James!

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its worth getting tracking done if it hasnt been done for awhile ,drag link can be fitted and set without iit will have the same setting as previous ,but if you remove track rod to fit another it will want tracking

jamesmartin said:

its worth getting tracking done if it hasnt been done for awhile ,drag link can be fitted and set without iit will have the same setting as previous ,but if you remove track rod to fit another it will want tracking

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Should I fit both then ask the garage to do tracking? I could just do drag link as that's all that failed mot to be fair. Is it possible to do tracking yourself or too much involved?

alexc2701 said:

Should I fit both then ask the garage to do tracking? I could just do drag link as that's all that failed mot to be fair. Is it possible to do tracking yourself or too much involved?

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you cant set tracking properly without a 4 wheel alignment tool,because of the ackerman steering arms tracking has to be set with n/s wheel perfectly in line with rear and vehicle ,the wheels are only parallel when wheels are straight, with the drag link because you have steering wheel as a guide you can fit another and reset to were it was

jamesmartin said:

you cant set tracking properly without a 4 wheel alignment tool,because of the ackerman steering arms tracking has to be set with n/s wheel perfectly in line with rear and vehicle ,the wheels are only parallel when wheels are straight, with the drag link because you have steering wheel as a guide you can fit another and reset to were it was

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I'll just do drag link on its own then it's more of a run about than a marathon driver! Hopefully have other one fixed soon
Thanks for lending your brain
I don't get why people pay mechanics when there's so much to learn! I.e this mot he said 500 to fix issues. Done one for basically free and other for 30 quid... and learned. Way better!

alexc2701 said:

I'll just do drag link on its own then it's more of a run about than a marathon driver! Hopefully have other one fixed soon
Thanks for lending your brain
I don't get why people pay mechanics when there's so much to learn! I.e this mot he said 500 to fix issues. Done one for basically free and other for 30 quid... and learned. Way better!

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knowledge, tools and space to do it basically,luckily for me some still do pay

jamesmartin said:

knowledge, tools and space to do it basically,luckily for me some still do pay

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Haha some people's hand skills and common sense make it impossible for them to even try!
I love trying new things, takes me a while like but defo worth it haha doing my house up was easier than some of these fiddly things haha

Right so changed drag link. Take back to get mot'd says failed. Did wrong joint. Erm I swapped all the drag link joints????
Turns out mechanic doesn't know the diffirence between drag link or track rod. Goes on to blame landy place next door
Swear sometimes I'm surrounded by idiots
Could at least take responsibility
Then says I bodged abs explained no its a proper fix he's all like sure sure
Assholes
Gota wait for new part now

alexc2701 said:

Right so changed drag link. Take back to get mot'd says failed. Did wrong joint. Erm I swapped all the drag link joints????
Turns out mechanic doesn't know the diffirence between drag link or track rod. Goes on to blame landy place next door
Swear sometimes I'm surrounded by idiots
Could at least take responsibility
Then says I bodged abs explained no its a proper fix he's all like sure sure
Assholes
Gota wait for new part now

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I'm sorry, but I fail to see the connection between the test on your vehicle and the "landy place next door". If he meant he had to go next door to ask what a part is called, then I would suggest that you need to find a new test centre - sharpish.
I don't understand why he should even have said that the ABS had been bodged. There are two questions which he should address during the MoT test:-

1. Does the ABS warning light illuminate when the vehicle is switched on and then go out after the prescribed period, and
   
2. Do the brakes work to a level to meet the legal requirements and the specification indicated by the manufacturer.

You carried out a fix to the ABS which now meets the required operating parameters, how you did it shouldn't be of no real interest to him, and if he asked "just out of interest and curiosity", all you really needed to say was that there was a bad connection in the ABS modulator which you repaired, but I don't see how your answer should affect your test result.
Of course, he could just have been a bit p*ssed off that he didn't get the chance to rip an arm and a leg off you for a new ABS modulator.

alexc2701 said:

Did wrong joint. Erm I swapped all the drag link joints????

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So it was failed on something that it should not have failed on? I would be discussing getting DVSA or who ever it is that manages MOT centres involved.
Did you find 1/2 inch of movement on the track rod ends? as was remarked on the "drag link " ends? in the original MOT.

Cheers

He marked it as drag link end offside. Swapped whole drag link assy
Then took back said you did wrong drag link joint. Was like how I did the whole thing??? He meant track rod end. Drag link and track rod had like 1 or 2 mm movement no where near the half inch
Then abs he said I can't guarantee it will work. Said I can cos all I've done is took out a crap soldered connection. If I was bodging it I'd just disconnect the light behind dash where can't see surely?

Obvious he's an idiot if he doesn't know what a track rod end is when they're on like virtually ever car..
Then he blamed the landy place next door (a LR specialist has a shop next door) says well he said drag link end. Like seriously. Take some responsibility

Think the whole thing was him trying to drum up work. Still tried making out valve. When it's working fine now... think cos he priced at 500 he trying it on now
When it's costed me 25 so far now another 25 for track rod since that's one he failed. (Still isn't a fail as far as I can tell) maybe an advisory.
He had no idea about abs fix. Explained it in simple terms he still like
Only 2 wires and some resistors is it that hard to comprehend.
Not using this garage again. Annoying cos 2 min walk from house be convenient haha

Like got spare tyre on at mo cos one had cut in I could get all new tyres for what he wanted to charge me.
Swear everyone tries it on feel sorry for people who don't know better or aren't able to do it themselves
Drag link was a pig to get off too stiff as anything, and didn't even need doing! Neither does other to be fair but yaknow
Sake of 25 quid need it to pass mot. Was gana do both too haha typical. Only silver lining is new part should come next day...

alexc2701 said:

He had no idea about abs fix. Explained it in simple terms he still like
Only 2 wires and some resistors is it that hard to comprehend.

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I'm not getting picky, but where does it mention 2 resistors in the option B modification write up?
Apart from just measuring the value of the resistors built into the shuttle valve switch plate.